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THIS  BOOK  IS  DUE  ON  THE  DATE 
INDICATED  BELOW  AND  IS  SUB- 
JECT TO  AN  OVERDUE  FINE  AS 
POSTED  AT  THE  CIRCULATION 
DESK. 


MAR  2  3  1983 

'JUL  2  9  1987 

NOV  1  9  1993 

lDEC    ^# 

AUGfJ^t%?4 

m  3  t  1995 

/yPR  1  9  1996 

Wl^T5foo<^ 

THE   WATER   GARDEN 


PRESS    OF 
I  MARE  PRINTING  AND   PUBLISHING   CO.,   LTD. 
NEW    YORK, 


VICTORIA     REGIA  (TRICKER'S  VARIETY)   AND  VICTORIA    REGIA  RANDII. 
These  are  both  fine  specimen  plants,  backed  by  Sour  Gum  and  wild  Cherry  trees,  with  Eulalia,  Golden-Rod, 
Sumach,  Cyperus,  and  Caladium  on  the  bank,  and  festooned  with  the  Wild  Cucumber,  most  beautiful, 
graceful,  and  harmonious.     Tricker's  Variety  is  the  plant  at  the  back;  Randi  in  foreground. 


THE 


WATER  GARDEN 


EMBRACING 


THE       CONSTRUCTION       OF       PONDS,       ADAPTING      NATURAL      STREAMS, 

PLANTING,    HYBRIDIZING,    SEED    SAVING,    PROPAGATION,    BUILDING 

AN  AQUATIC  HOUSE,  WINTERING,  CORRECT  DESIGNING  AND 

PLANTING     OF     BANKS     AND     MARGINS,    TOGETHER 

WITH     CULTURAL      DIRECTIONS      FOR     ALL 

ORNAMENTAL   AQUATICS 


BY 

WILLIAM   TRICKER 


PROFUSELY  ILLUSTRATED    ULTH    XIXE    PLATES,    EIGHTEEX    FULL    PAGE 

DESCRIPTIVE    IVEirS,    AXD  X UMEROUS  OTHER  SKETCHES 

IX    THE     TEXT 


NEW  YORK 

A.  T.   DE  LA  MARE  PRINTING  AND  PUBLISHING  COMPANY,  LTD. 

1897 


A.  T.  De  La  Ma 


PREFACE. 

OF  late  years  interest  in  the  cultivation  of  aquatic  plants  has  grown 
enormously;  not  only  are  Water  Lily  ponds  now  features  of  our  public 
parks  and  larger  private  gardens,  but  even  in  the  back  yard  of  the  suburban 
resident  one  can  frequently  find  a  few  tubs  or  a  small  tank,  where  the  cultiva- 
tion of  Water  Lilies  and  of  the  Lotus  is  indulged. 

Such  widespread  interest  in  a  branch  of  horticulture  which  is  com- 
paratively new  seems  to  demand  a  practical  handbook  dealing  with  the  Water 
Garden  from  the  standpoint  of  the  cultivator.  Certain  it  is,  from  the  ex- 
perience of  the  author  in  having  to  frequently  reply  to  inquiries  as  regards  the 
proper  care  and  attention  to  be  given  to  Water  Lilies  and  other  aquatics,  that 
there  is  some  desire  for  a  volume  such  as  the  present. 

The  production  of  the  work  in  its  present  form  would  not  have  been 
possible  but  for  the  kind  assistance  rendered  by  many  friends,  and  thanks  are 
extended  to  all,  biit  especially  must  acknowledgements  of  valuable  aid  be 
made  to  the  following:  ]\Ir.  S.  C.  Nash  for  the  use  of  many  illustrations  from 
negatives  made  by  himself;  to  Mr.  J.  N.  Gerard,  for  the  opportunity  of  adding 
a  view  of  his  water  garden ;  to  the  proprietors  of  American  Gardening,  and  the 
H.  A.  Dreer  Co.,  for  the  use  of  illustrations;  to  Mr.  Willard  N.  Clute  who 
contributed  the  chapter  on  Ferns;  to  the  Editor  of  the  Metal  Worker  for 
illustrations  representing  Scollay's  heating  plant  for  the  Tropical  Water  Lily 
Pond  in  Prospect  Park,  Brooklyn,  N.  Y. ;  to  Mr.  J.  M.  Hodgson  for  the 
miniature  views  of  his  Newport  Garden;  to  Mr.  P.  Bisset  for  photographs 
furnished;  to  Messrs.  Lord  &  Burnham  for  illustration  of  Aquatic  house;  and 
to  Prof.  Byron  D.  Halsted  for  information  on  diseases. 

In  the  matter  of  illustration,  the  use  of  the  photographic  camera  and  the 
direct  reproduction  of  its  work,  has  been  largely  relied  upon.  The  object  in 
view  has  been  to  present,  as  faithfully  as  could  be  done,  views  taken  direct 


58085 


vi  PREFACE. 

from  nature  and  demonsti-ating  different  styles  of  planting  suitable  for  different 
situations  and  locations  as  they  may  be  actually  seen.  By  this  means  more 
than  by  any  other  it  is  felt  that  a  true  conception  of  the  possibilities  of  the 
water  garden  can  be  obtained,  and  prominence  has  therefore  been  given  to 
photographic  views  in  the  following  pages. 

In  conclusion  I  must  acknowledge  my  indebtedness  to  ^Ir.  Leonard  Barron, 
Editor  of  American  Gardening,  for  having  prepared  for  press  the  MSS.  of  the 
entire  book. 

If  this  effort  add  in  an}'  way  to  the  better  appreciation  of  the  beauties  of 
the  Water  Garden  and  its  charming  occupants;  if  it  lead  but  a  few  towards 
that  great  pleasure  and  satisfaction  which  has  been  mine  after  years  of  ex- 
periment and  trial,  the  labor  of  production  will  not  have  been  in  vain. 

W.   T. 


"  It  is  neither  wise,  nor  tender,  nor  loving,  to  remit  to  otliers, 
however  expert,  the  supreme  care  of  one's  garden.  You  will  tend 
yours  with  your  own  hands,  and  discover  its  needs  with  your 
own  heart;  and  If,  in  doing  so,  you  have  to  withdraw  yourselves 
sometimes,  more  than  accords  with  modern  wont,  Into  rural 
seclusion,  your  social  instincts  will  not  thereby  be  starved,  nor 
your  share  in  the  graces  and  charities  of  life  thereby  be  curtailed. 
You  will  find  much  resemblance  between  flowers  and  human 
beings,  for  they  too  grow  reserved  under  coldness  or  maltreat- 
ment, and  respond  with  almost  feminine  alacrity  to  everj' 
sympathetic  endeavor  to  appreliend  them." 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  i-'-^ce; 

I.  — Introductory 3 

II.— Where  to    Grow  Aquatics 8 

Ill.-Soil -° 

IV.— Treatment   of   Margins 24 

v.— Planting 33 

VI.— Hybridizing,  Seed  Saving,   Wintering 41^ 

VII.— Seedling  Plants   and  Propagation 46 

VIII.— Nymph.-eas  :  Classes  and  Distribution 49  «/ 

IX.— The  Victoria 53 

X.— The  Aquatic  House 65 

XI. — The  Amateur's  Water  Garden 73 

XII.— Insects,  Rats,  Diseases,  and   Enemies 77 

XIII.— Heating  Plant  for  a  Victoria  or  Tropical  Water   Lily   Pond 83 

XIV.— Descriptive  List  of  Water  Lilies  with  Cultural  Memoranda. 

1.     Hardy  Nymphaas 86 

II.  Tender  Nymphceas,  Day  Blooming 9° 

III.  Tender  Nymphwas,  Night  Blooming 92 

IV.  Victoria   and   Euryale 94 

V.     Nelumbiums 95 

XV. — Miscellaneous  Aquatic  Plants. 

I.     Tender 96 

II.     Hardy 98 

III.  Plants  for  Aquaria  and  Shallow  Water loi 

XVI.— Ornamental    Grasses— Bamboos— Orchids— Pitcher   Plants 103 

XVII.— Ferns  Suitable  for  the  Aquatic   Garden 107 

XVIII.— Hardy  Perennial  Plants  Suitable  for  Margins  of  Ponds  and  Moist  Grounds  .  112 

XIX.— Hardy  Trees  and  Shrubs  for  Wet  and  Moist  Situations,  Margins  of  Ponds, 

Lakes,   etc "8 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Nelumbium  8pecu)suin 

A  natural  piece  oi  water  planted  with  Water   Lilies 

Pond  of  hardy  Watir  Lilies  in  I  nion  Park,  (  hicago 

Pond  of  hard>    Wattr  Lilieh    and   rocker\ 

Section   ot  wall 

Group  of  tropiial  Water  Lilie>.  and  Vu  tona    Itandii 

Eulalia  japoniia 

An  Amateur's  pond    t>\12  feet,   showing  masonry  abo\e  ground  le\  el 

The  Water  I.ilj   pond  m  the  gardens  of  Hon    Gardiner  G    Hubliard    W  psi 

Victoria  Randii  and  N\iiiph<ia8  grown  in  an  artifii  lal  i)ond 

A  natural  piece  of  water 

Planting  of  a  natural   piete  ot    water 

Victoria  regia  (Trn  ker  t.  \arietv)  showing  iiartlv    opent  d   flowtr 

Victoria  regla  (Tuckers  y  arietj )  with  fully   opened  flower,  and  liud  shov 

An  Aquatic  house 

Leaf  of  Ouvirandrn  fenestralis 

Ouvirandra    fenestralih 

An  Aquatic  gulden  and   fishcij    lonibined 

Xymphipa   Marliacta    (.hroinatelKi 

An   Amateur's   aquatic  garden 

Anindo   donax  ((jiant    Ueed) 

Leaf  of  hardy  N\iiiph,ia  affitted  with   (eiiosjiora 

Heating  a  Lily  pond  in  Prospict  I'aik,  N    \ 

.Stellate  form  of  Nvmph.ia 

Aponogeton   distochyon 

Limnocharis  Huniboldti 

Myrlophylium   jirosei  pinatoides 

Iris  Ksempferl 

Sagittaria 

Cabomba 

Stratlotes  aloides 

Eulalia  japonKa    ?ebrina 

Dion.-ea  rauscipula  (\enus    flj-trapi 

Sarracenia 

Adiantum   pedatuiii 

Funkia 

Mertensia  virginica 
Spirjea  palmata 

Trillium 

Clethra  ainifolia 
Kalmia  latifolia 
Magnolia  glauca...  


PLATES. 


-Victoria  regia  (  Tricker  s  y  ariet.y : 
-Flower  of  Victoria  legia  Handli 
-Xyniphipa  gracilis 
-Nymphiva  gigantea 
-Xyniphtea  Sturteyantii 
-Egyptian  Lotus 
-A  charming  nook 
-A  magnificent  Clump  of  Papj  rus 


A  view  in  the  large  pond  at  the  Water  Gardens,  Clifton,  N.  J.  In  company  with  the  Lotus  are 
Xympbieas.  The  margin  of  the  pond  is  furnished  with  Zizania  aquatica  (Wild  Rice);  the  central  object  in  the 
background  is  a  trunk  of  a  dead  tree  covered  with  the  wild  g-rape  vine. 


The  Water  Garden. 


CHAPTER  I, 


INTRODUCTORY. 

'ATER  LILIIiS,  or  Pond  Lilies,  have  existed  through  the 
ages.  The  native  species,  Nymphsea  wdorata,  the  white 
fragrant  Pond  Lily,  was  introduced  into  England  in 
1786.  The  English  species,  Nymphsea  alba,  also  white, 
was  recognized  long  before;  these  two  species  have 
become  widely  known  and  the  general  impression  has 
been  that  all  Water  Lilies  were  white,  hence  the 
expression  of  surprise  when  one  sees  a  red,  yellow,  or 
blue  Lily  for  the  first  time. 

Aquatics  are  associated  with  the  ancient  Egyptians 
in  their  literature.  Mention  is  made  of  the  Lotus  or 
Water  Lily,  the  name  being  applied  both  to  Nelumbiums 
and  Nymphfeas,  and,  in  fact,  to  several  other  plants  in 
different  parts  of  the  Old  World.  Three  distinct 
species  are  represented  on  many  Egyptian  monuments  and  are  known  to 
botanists  and  gardeners  of  the  present  day  as  Nelumbiuni  speciosum, 
Nymphaea  Lotus,  and  N.  coerulea.  Nelumbiums  were  not  only  known  to  the 
Egyptians,  but  were  common  in  the  East  and  West  Indies,  China  and  Japan, 
Persia,  and  Asiatic  Russia.  The  United  States  can  also  lay  claim  to  one  Lotus — 
Nelumbium  luteum — the  well  known  yellow  American  Lotus. 

Amongst  the  many  plants  now  grown  for  the  embellishment  of  our 
gardens,  public  parks,  and  cemeteries,  are  hardy  herbaceous  plants,  bulbs, 
annuals,  tender  plants  known  as  bedding  plants,  sub-tropical  plants,  and  last. 


•  ^-  State  Coll, 


4  INTRODUCTORY. 

but  not  least,  aquatic  plants.  As  Orchids  are  amongst  greenhouse  plants,  so 
are  aquatics  amongst  garden  flowers,  "The  Elite."  These  are  comparatively 
new  and  of  recent  introduction,  though  they  have  been  known  to  collectors 
and  a  few  cultivators  for  a  number  of  years  ;  but  adaptability  of  them 
(including  the  most  tender  Nymphasas  and  Victoria  regia)  for  general  culture 
out-of-doors  in  summer  is  a  realization  of  recent  date. 

No  class  of  plants  is  more  widely  distributed  than  Water  Lilies,  being  indige- 
nous to  the  United  States,  Canada,  Central  and  South  America,  East  and  West 
Indies,  Japan,  China,  Siberia,  England,  Europe,  Austria,  Africa,  and  Aiistralia, 
each  country  possessing  its  own  or  several  species  of  marked  distinction,  size  and 
color.  No  class  of  plants  possesses  such  diversity  of  color,  including  red, 
white,  yellow,  and  blue,  and  intermediate  shades.  The  members  are  no  less 
distinctive  in  point  of  fragrance,  as  nearly  all  are  possessed  of  an  aromatic, 
delicate,  and  pleasing  odor.  They  are  also  very  unlike  the  host  of  other 
favorite  flowers :  some  are  day-blooming  and  close  at  night,  others  are  night- 
blooming  and  close  in  the  day.  As  a  rule,  the  flowers  open  and  close  for  three 
days  or  nights  in  succession,  generally  the  first  day  flower  closes  early,  and 
on  the  third  day  after  closing  it  sinks  beneath  the  water  and  matures  seed — 
if  so  be  that  it  produce  seed  at  all ! 

There  is  a  great  variation  in  the  shape  and  size  of  Nymphsea  flowers; 
some  are  beautifully  cup-shaped  (see  plate  of  Nymphsea  Sturtevantii,  facing 
page  48),  others  star-shaped  with  long  flat  petals,  tapering  to  a  point,  aS 
Njnnphasa  gracilis  (see  plate  facing  page  24),  some  species  have  long  stiff 
stems,  12  to  18  inches  above  water,  while  others  are  flexible  and  the  flowers 
float  on  the  surface  of  the  water.  Nympha;as  have  all  leaves  floating,  but 
occasionally,  when  crowded,  the  leaves  stand  out  of  the  water.  N.  tuberosa, 
one  of  the  strongest  growers,  soon  crowds  its  own  foliage  out  of  the  water, 
and  often  indeed  the  rhizomes  likewise. 

The  introduction  of  the  Victoria  regia  into  England  gave  a  stimulus  to 
acpiaticulture,  many  tropical  Nymphseas  had  reached  England  prior  to  the 
introduction  of  the  Victoria,  also  Nelumbiums;  their  cultivation,  however,  had 
never  become  general.  The  facts  that  they  could  not  be  grown  out-of-doors, 
and  that  numerous  other  tropical  plants  occupied  the  space  of  the  greenhouse 
and  conservatory  to  better  advantage,  were  potent  factors  in  this. 

About  fifty  years  ago  the  Victoria  was  first  introduced  into  England, 
and  two  years  later  was  grown  in  a  special  house  erected  for  it  by  Mr.  Cope, 
of    Philadelphia  ;    with  it  other    tropical   aquatics   were  introduced   and    this 


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INTRODUCTORY.  7 

marks  the  commencement  of  the  cultivation  of  aquatics  in  the  United  States. 
Little  progress,  however,  was  made;  the  indulgence  in  the  new  cult  involved 
considerable  labor  and  expense,  and  only  the  few  could  enjoy  such  a  floral 
luxury.  In  1853  Mr.  John  Fisk  Allen,  of  Salem,  Mass.,  exhibited  a  leaf  and 
flower  of  Victoria  before  the  Massachusetts  Horticultural  Society  ;  other 
aquatics  were  also  exhibited,  and  the  cultivation  of  such  increased  somewhat, 
but  it  was  not  until  it  was  found  that  the  Egyptian  Lotus,  Nelumbiuni  specio- 
sum,  was  quite  hardy  that  aquatic  gardening  commanded  real  attention.  The 
introduction  of  that  plant,  as  well  as  of  several  species  of  Nymphasa,  into  the 
pubHc  parks  and  gardens  became  general  throughout  the  United  States.  At 
the  present  time  exhibitions  are  not  complete  without  a  display  of  aquatic 
flowers,  and  they  have  ever  proved  to  be  a  special  feature  and  centre  of  attrac- 
tion wherever  shown.  The  aquatic  plants  at  the  World's  Fair  and  in  the 
public  parks  at  Chicago  attracted  considerable  interest,  and  their  cultivation 
has  increased  by  rapid  strides  since  that  time. 


CHAPTER  II. 

WHERE  TO  GROW  AQUATICS. 

THE  CULTIVATION  of  aquatics  in  our  public  parks,  and  the  annual 
exhibitions  before  horticultural  societies  and  the  Society  of  American 
Florists,  have  been  educators  of  the  public.  The  cultivation  has  extended 
throughout  our  land,  and  now  in  many  private  gardens,  of  small  or  large 
proportions,  aquatic  gardening  is  to  be  seen.  These  ever-fascinating  and 
attractive  gems  of  nature  have  attracted  the  attention  and  admiration  of 
multitudes,  who,  beholding  them,  desire  to  possess  them.  Yet  many  hesitate 
through  fear  of  a  possible  failure,  or  their  lack  of  the  knowledge  of  culti- 
vating such  chaste  and  apparently  delicate  exotics.  But  this  is  assumption, 
for  no  plants  grown  in  a  hothouse  or  flower  garden,  are  of  more  easy 
cultivation.  Our  common  bedding  plants  require  much  coddling  during  the 
greater  part  of  the  year;  cuttings  are  taken  in  August  and  cared  for  through 
several  stages  until  the  following  May  or  June,  when  the  plants  are  placed 
in  their  summer  quarters,  and  the  same  course  has  to  be  again  repeated  eacii 
year ;  compared  with  aquatics  the  tender  bedding  plants  are  very  costly. 
Where  a  natural  piece  of  water  exists,  and  such  is  to  be  met  with  at 
almost  every  turn  (ponds  of  stagnant  water,  sluggish  streams,  swamps,  bogs, 
lakes),  the  possession  of  a  water  garden  is  simply  a  matter  of  planting,  and 
when  judiciously  done  the  result  is  a  perpetual  delight,  a  growing  interest, 
verily,  a  joy  forever.  See  the  tropical  Lotus,  its  majestic  foliage  standing 
above  the  surface  of  the  water,  and  its  mammoth  flower  buds  as  they  burst 
in  all  their  oriental  splendor;  it  is  perfectly  hardy,  and  when  planted  in  a 
natural  pond  soon  takes  possession  of  the  same  to  the  exclusion  of  any  other 
plant.  All  the  European  Nymphaeas,  including  the  many  new  hybrids  of  deli- 
cate and  exquisite  shades  of  color,  are  perfectly  hardy.  These,  and  the  many 
attractive  hardy  herbaceous  plants,  including  the  ornamental  Grasses,  Reeds, 


VICTORIA  REGIA  RANDII. 
In  order  to  see  a  flower  of  a  Victoria  at  its  best  in  all  its  different  stages,  it  is  necessary  to  watch  it  very  closely,  and  as  it  is  a  night- 
blooming  plant  the  advantage  of  having  it  where  an  electric  light  is  handy,  is  at  once  apparent.  The  flower  on  first  opening 
is  indeed  most  beautiful  and  its  strong  aroma  is  then  most  perceptible,  but  a  continual  changing  of  form  and  coloris  ever  tak- 
ing place.  The  above  picture  was  photographed  by  flash-light  and  is  a  faithful  represention  of  a  flower  as  it  appears  during 
the  second  night. 


MAKING  A  POND.  g 

Bamboos,  Japan  and  other  Iris,  constitute  one  of  the  greatest  attractions  of  a 
landscape,  and  can  be  seen  in  all  the  leading  public  parks,  gardens,  cemeteries, 
and  private  gardens  ;  then,  to  them,  add  the  most  striking  of  all  aquatics,  the 
tropical  Nymphseas,  and  other  tropical  terrestrial  plants  that  can  be  grown 
during  the  summer  under  precisely  the  same  conditions  (they  make  rapid 
growth  and  flower  profusely),  and  there  is  produced  a  mass  of  flowers  of 
gorgeous  colors  that  cannot  be  rivaled  by  any  other  class  of  plants  in  this 
or  any  other  country. 

On  many  estates  a  natural  pond  or  stream  of  water  is  to  be  found ;  if  such 
be  outside  the  limits  of  the  garden  proper,  yet  in  such  a  location  that  it  is  in 
sight  of  a  driveway  or  footpath,  a  few  clumps  of  the  red  or  yellow  Nymphaeas 
or  a  mass  of  the  Egyptian  Lotus  add  a  special  charm  to  such  a  spot,  and  will 
make  it  inviting  and  attractive. 

Where  a  stream  of  water  exists  a  dam  may  be  built  and  a  pond  made  at 
a  moderate  cost.  It  is  not  necessary  that  the  pond  be  more  than  from  eighteen 
inches  to  three  feet  in  depth ;  a  natural  soil  inclining  to  heavy  is  preferable, 
avoiding  gravelty  and  sandy  soils.  Exceptionally  finely  colored  flowers  are 
grown   in  ponds  with  clay  bottoms. 

MAKING  A  POND. 

Presuming  a  pond  is  to  be  made  by  damming  a  stream,  the  first  thing  to 
do  is  to  clear  the  ground  of  any  brush,  dead  stumps,  coarse  weeds  and  such  like. 
Then  mark  out  the  pond  with  stakes  driven  into  the  ground  about  five  or  six 
paces  apart,  taking  levels  to  ascertain  the  exact  grade.  This  may  be  done  with 
an  ordinary  spirit  level  and  straight  edge,  if  the  space  be  only  about  a  hundred 
feet  long,  but  if  it  be  much  larger  it  is  advisable  to  have  a  surveyor's  instru- 
ment for  the  purpose.  Having  ascertained  the  exact  grade,  an  estimate  can 
be  made  of  the  soil  to  be  removed  in  leveling  for  the  bottom,  and  building  the 
dam.  This  latter  must  be  of  size  and  strength  in  proportion  to  the  size  of  the 
pond,  to  resist  the  pressure  and  weight  of  the  water  it  will  have  to  hold  in. 

A  dam  may  be  built  entirely  of  masonry  if  desired,  and  if  material  for  that 
purpose  be  on  the  ground  it  can  be  used  to  advantage.  An  overflow  must  be 
provided,  and  provision  made,  either  by  paving  with  stones  or  planks,  to  prevent 
the  bank  from  being  washed  away.  An  outlet  is  not  an  absolute  necessity, 
and  would  seldom,  if  ever,  be  wanted  in  a  shallow  pond ;  but  when  it  is  con- 
sidered desirable  to  have  such,  a  simple  outlet  may  be  provided  by  using  large 
drain  or  soil  pipes  before  the  dam  is  erected.      The  size  of  the  pipe  must  be 


10  MAKING    A    POND. 

according  to  the  volume  of  water  running  into  the  pond:  it  must  be  of  sufficient 
capacity  to  carry  off  the  water  at  the  same  rate  as  it  enters.  Perhaps  its 
greatest  use  would  be  during  work  of  construction.  The  flanged  end  of  the 
pipe  should  be  on  the  pond  side  of  the  dam,  and  this  can  be  plugged  with  a 
disc  of  wood  made  to  fit  the  pipe,  and  finished  olT  with  a  facing  of  puddled 
clay. 

Should  the  stream  supplying  the  pond  be  liable  to  become  a  dangerous 
freshet  after  heavy  rains,  provision  should  be  made  (by  a  culvert  or  open  ditch) 
to  divert  the  current  of  water  and  prevent  its  rushing  through  the  pond  ;  other- 
wise much  damage  might  be  done  to  the  plants,  as  well  as  to  the  pond  and  dam. 
In  such  a  case  an  inlet  should  be  made  with  a  gate  that  can  be  readily  closed  if 
need  be. 

In  most  cases  it  will  be  unnecessary  to  add  anything  to  the  natural  bottom, 
but  it  would  be  best  to  plough,  dig,  or  break  the  surface,  so  that  the  soil  may 
be  in  proper  condition  for  planting  when  the  season  arrives. 

Swampy  and  boggy  ground  may  be  converted  into  a  beautiful  natural  or 
wild  garden,  and  many  uncared  for  places  are  to  be  found  that  are  practically 
worthless  for  any  other  purpose.  Such  a  piece  of  ground  may  be  outside  the 
limits  of  the  formal  flower  garden,  but  is  an  ideal  spot  for  a  water  and  bog 
garden.  Here,  also,  many  hardy  perennials,  native  and  exotic,  will  flourish 
luxuriantly;  also  choice  flowering  shrubs,  trees,  and  ferns  will  thrive  as  in  no 
other  part  of  the  garden.  The  site  for  the  pond  will  naturally  be  the  lowest 
part  of  the  ground,  where  drains  from  the  surrounding  portions  can 
empty.  Having  selected  the  site,  mark  out  the  dimensions,  take  levels,  etc.,  as 
before  directed,  taking  advantage  of  the  natural  surroundings  to  add  to  the 
general  effect.  If  much  water  exist  to  interfere  with  operations,  construct  an 
outlet  to  drain  off  the  water,  taking  care  to  place  it  where  it  may  be  perma- 
nently left  open  or  closed  as  the  case  demands. 

If  springs  exist,  or  the  pond  is  subject  to  overflow  by  heavy  rains,  provi- 
sion should  be  made  to  carry  off  the  water  without  letting  it  rush  through  the 
pond.  Spring  water  running  into  the  pond  will  not  seriously  affect  the  culture 
of  Water  Lilies,  if  the  pond  be  not  shaded  and  the  volume  of  water  not  so  large 
as  to  materially  lower  the  temperature  of  the  pond. 

The  soil  will  have  to  be  dug  out  to  the  required  depth,  which  may  be 
from  eighteen  inches  to  two  or  three  feet,  the  depth  must  be  considered 
in  comparison  with  the  normal  thickness  of  ice  formed  in  the  locality,  for 
the    roots   of   Water  Lilies   must  not    freeze,    although    they   are    designated 


PUDDLING.  13 

"hardy."  The  soil  thus  dug  out  may  be  used  for  grading  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  pond.  Provide  an  overflow  so  as  to  allow  any  algae  or  confervaceous 
growth  to  run  off.  If  the  soil  at  the  bottom  of  the  pond  be  stiff  marl,  it  should 
be  broken  up  and  some  good  loamy  soil  added  for  planting  the  Lilies  in. 

Local  conditions  are  very  dissimilar;  in  many  gardens  there  is  a  natural 
declivity  and  a  run  of  water;  some  soils  are  sandy  and  gravelly,  while  others 
are  tenaceous.  Near  sandy  stretches  of  land  there  are  often  to  be  found 
deposits  of  pure  clay — potter's  clay.  A  supply  of  water,  natural  or  artificial,  is, 
of  course,  necessary.  Then,  whatever  natural  facilities  there  are  should  be 
taken  into  account  and  developed,  which  may  mean  a  considerable  saving  in 
the  cost  of  construction.  Having  a  supply  of  water  and  clay  at  command,  the 
greatest  obstacles  to  the  formation  of  a  water  garden  are  overcome.  Having 
selected  the  site,  and  determined  on  the  size  of  the  pond,  its  depth,  etc.,  outline 
the  pond  with  grade  sticks,  and  see  that  these  are  perfectly  level.  If  the  site 
selected  will  allow  an  addition  of  six  inches  of  soil,  this  will  allow  much  in 
digging,  and  in  the  disposal  of  the  soil  dug  out.  The  sides  of  the  pond  must 
be  sloping  outward,  at  an  angle  of  45"  or  more. 

PUDDLING. 
Having  dug  the  space  for  the  pond,  the  next  thing  is  to  make  it  hold  water. 
Clay  will  effectually  do  this,  but  it  needs  preparation  before  being  used,  and  it 
must  be  pure  and  free  from  stones,  and  such  like  matters.  Provide  a  large 
shallow  box  similar  to  that  used  by  masons  and  bricklayers  for  the  mixing  of 
mortar ;  take  a  suitable  quantity  of  clay,  and  chop  with  a  spade  if  lumpy  and 
hard,  using  water  sparingly  to  soften  it ;  then  with  a  wooden  maul  beat  or 
pound  it  until  of  proper  consistency — very  similar  to  clay,  or  brick  earth,  in  the 
making  of  bricks.  With  this  clay,  cover  the  sides  of  the  pond  to  a  thickness 
of  three  to  four  inches,  beating  it  as  firmly  as  possible  with  a  wooden  hammer 
or  mallet ;  also  cover  the  bottom  evenly  and  beat  or  tread  as  the  work  proceeds, 
until  the  whole  is  entirely  covered  and  made  compact.  If  the  plants  are  to  be 
grown  in  tubs  or  boxes,  cover  the  bottom  with  about  two  inches  of  bar  or  beach 
sand;  this  will  prevent  the  water  from  getting  thick  and  muddj%  when  it  is 
necessary  to  get  in  among  the  plants.  If  the  pond  be  of  moderate  size,  so  that 
a  plank  will  reach  across  from  bank  to  bank,  and  there  is  consequently  no 
necessity  for  anyone  to  get  into  the  pond,  soil  may  be  placed  in  the  bottom 
and  the  plants  planted  in  it;  but  in  either  case,  use  the  best  soil  available 
(see  Soil,  page  20).      When  covering  the  bottom  with  sand  or  filHng  in  soil,  as 


1:4  FOUNTAIN  BASINS. 

directed  later,  it  is  important  to  avoid  making  holes  or  indentions  in  the 
bottom  or  other  part  of  the  clay  lining;  so  whatever  operation  is  in  progress, 
use  planks  or  boards  upon  which  to  walk  or  wheel. 

A  sod  border  makes  the  best  finish  to  the  edge  of  the  pond,  and  will  allow 
a  close  inspection  of  the  occupants,  but  numerous  Grasses,  Selaginellas,  Lysim- 
achias,  Glechomas,  Rushes,  Vincas,  etc.,  should  find  a  home  on  the  edge  of  the 
pond,  or  at  least  on  a  portion  of  it. 

The  foregoing  method  of  treatment  is  not  practical  in  all  cases,  but  other 
means  to  attain  similar  effects  may  be  resorted  to,  such  as  fountain  basins, 
tanks  or  artificial  ponds.  In  making  such,  the  general  idea  should  be  to 
imitate  nature,  and,  where  practicable,  all  such  work  and  materials  should 
be  carefully  concealed  (see  plate  facing  page  64).  It  often  happens  that  the 
most  desirable  spot  in  which  to  grow  water  plants  is  such  that  an  orna- 
mental stone  wall,  or  the  coping  of  such  would  be  in  harmony  with  the  sur- 
roundings. Gravel  walks  leading  near  the  pond,  and  kept  in  good  condition, 
are  a  great  accommodation,  affording  people  means  of  making  an  early  inspec- 
tion of  the  gems,  when  otherwise,  if  obliged  to  walk  over  the  lawn  yet  wet  with 
dew,  they  would  be  debarred. 

Large  fountain  basins  of  this  description  are  to  be  seen  in  city  parks,  both 
small  and  large,  also  in  cemeteries,  as  well  as  on  private  estates;  these  are 
available  for  growing  most  kinds  of  aquatic  plants.  Other  tanks  or  basins 
specially  constructed  for  the  purpose,  as  well  as  tubs  made  out  of  hogsheads 
and  kerosene  barrels,  are  very  serviceable  and  well  adapted  for  the  growing 
of  aquatics  on  a  smaller  scale.  A  fountain  is  sometimes  an  ornamental  and 
desirable  structure  in  the  garden,  but  it  must  harmonize  with  the  surroundings 
and  be  in  proportion  to  the  dimensions  of  the  garden,  or  the  section  thereof 
allotted  to  it.  The  basin  of  a  fountain,  if  not  very  small,  will  prove  a  fitting 
place  for  aquatics,  but  it  must  not  be  crowded  with  plants,  and  a  continual 
stream  of  water  must  not  be  permitted,  as  that  would  tend  to  lower  the 
temperature  of  the  water.  Such  strong  growing  plants  as  Nelumbiums,  and 
tall  growing  plants,  such  as  Papyrus,  must  be  omitted,  except  in  large 
fountain  basins,  and  even  when  present,  care  must  be  taken  not  to  allow  a 
heavy  stream  or  spray  of  water  to  fall  on  such  plants,  for  it  would  beat  them 
down  and  give  a  ragged  appearance  to  the  whole. 

Tanks  or  artificial  ponds  may  be  constructed  in  almost  any  desired  spot 
where  a  supply  of  water  can  be  commanded.  Such  a  pond  may  be  in  proximity 
to  a  dwelling  house.     There  is  no  need  to  fear  its  being  a  nuisance,  as  a  source 


ARTIFICIAL  PONDS.  17 

of  malaria,  or  as  a  breeding  place  for  mosquitoes.  If  near  to  the  dwelling' 
house,  whence  such  a  pond  may  constantly  be  viewed  from  the  window  or 
piazza,  it,  together  with  aquatics  and  other  suitable  plants,  may  form  a  part  of 
the  flower  garden  with  beautiful  and  charming  effect.  A  pond  of  irregular 
outline  is  to  be  preferred,  and  if  on  the  lawn,  the  masonry  should  be  entirely 
hidden  or  surrounded  by  ornamental  subtropical  plants.  On  the  north  and 
northwest  sides,  should  be  planted  clumps  of  Bamboos,  Ornamental  Grasses 
and  Reeds,  with  stibtropical  plants  for  summer  adornment.  Back  of  these 
plants,  some  shrubs  and  trees  for  wind-breaks  should  be  planted,  if  such  be 
not  already  on  the  ground.  On  the  same  side  of,  and  in  the  pond,  which  should 
be  opposite  to  and  farthest  from  the  dwelling,  should  be  clumps  of  Lotus; 
these  should  be  planted  in  divisions  of  the  pond,  walled  in  so  as  to  keep  them 
from  rambling  through  the  whole  pond.  The  size  of  such  a  pond  must  be 
according  to  location,  and  should  bear  some  proportion  to  the  size  of  the  entire 
flower  garden.  One  from  sixty  to  one  hundred  feet  long  and  twelve  to  fifteen 
feet  wide,  will  be  large  enough  to  accommodate  a  fair  collection  of  these  plants 
and  make  an  attractive  feature;  but  it  may  be  made  larger  or  smaller,  according 
to  individual  requirements. 

The  best  method  of  getting  to  work  is  to  draw  apian  to  a  scale,  having 
previously  taken  the  dimensions  of  the  ground,  and  considered  the  levels,  the 
source  of  water  supply,  overflow  and  outlet.  Having  determined  what  to  do, 
(including  the  disposal  of  the  soil  to  be  excavated,  which  will  aggregate  from 
seventy-five  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  cubic  yards  for  a  pond  of  the  size  men- 
tioned), mark  out  the  pond,  using  stout  set-sticks,  about  one  foot  long,  nicely 
pointed;  these  may  be  firmly  stuck  in  the  ground,  about  three  feet  apart, 
closer  on  a  curve,  so  that  an  exact  outline  of  the  pond  may  be  apparent  and 
corrections  made  if  necessary.  When  the  outline  is  considered  satisfactory, 
drive  the  sticks  firmly  into  the  ground  until  but  three  or  four  inches  remain 
above  the  surface;  then  proceed  with  the  excavation.  If  the  soil  have  to  be 
hauled  away,  horses  and  carts  will  be  necessary,  but  if  it  can  be  used  in  the 
vicinity,  then  the  work  can  be  accomplished  with  the  aid  of  wheelbarrows. 

If  the  ground  is  loamy,  and  of  a  stiff  consistency,  dig  the  sides  perpendicu- 
larly, and  excavate  to  the  depth  of  two  feet  six  inches;  this  will  allow  about 
two  feet  depth  of  water  when  completed,  which,  for  general  purposes,  is 
sufficient;  the  walls  should  be  eight  inches  thick,  built  of  brick,  and  laid  in 
cement;  the  joints  must  be  all  well  filled  in.  The  wall  may  be  tapered 
near  the    top,    and   finished    with    one    four-inch  brick    set   flat  or   on    edge. 


WALLING. 


The  top  course  of  brick  should  be  two  or  three  inches  below  the  ground  level, 
so  that  the  green  sod  will  cover  all  trace  of  masonry.  After  the  walls  are 
built,  finish  off  with  a  facing  of  Portland  cement.  The  bottom  may  be  made  of 
concrete  or  broken  bricks  well  grouted  in,  and  afterwards  finished  off  with  a 
layer  of  Portland  cement.  The  division  walls 
for  Nelumbiums  may  be  made  of  four-inch 
work,  if  the  sections  are  not  large  ;  otherwise 
build  them  eight  inches  thick.  These  need  not 
be  built  to  the  surface,  as  they  are  intended 
only  to  confine  the  roots. 

An  overflow  pipe  is  essential,  and  an  outlet 
is  very  handy,  but  if  Water  Lilies  and  Nelum- 
biums are  to  be  planted  out,  the  water  will  be 
kept  in  the  pond  all  winter  ;  there  will,  how- 
ever, be  times  when  transplanting,  renewal  of 
soil,  etc.,  will  necessitate  the  water  being 
drawn  off,  and  then  the  usefulness  of  an  outlet 
will  be  apparent.  A  drain  must  be  provided  to 
carry  off  the  water,  and  one  or  more  outlets 
made,  according  to  the  size  of  the  pond.  A 
two-inch  pipe,  or  three-inch  pipe,  of  malleable 
iron,  built  into  the  solid  masonry  at  the  bottom, 
can  be  made  to  answer  for  outlet  and  overflow. 
An  L  fitting,  attached  to  this  pipe,  should  be 
level  with  the  bottom,  and  to  this  may  be  joined 
an  upright  piece  of  pipe  that  will  reach  the 
surface  ;  this  may  be  in  two  pieces,  one  of 
eighteen  inches,  another  of  six  inches.  If, 
after  planting,  it  is  desirable  to  have  but  six 
inches  of  water  in  the  pond,  remove  the  top 
section  of  pipe,  which  can  be  replaced  when 
SECTION  1)1-  wAi.i..  fhe  pond  is  wanted  full. 

A  most  useful  tank  is  one  built  of  either 
brick  work  or  concrete,  twelve  feet  long,  five  feet  six  inches  wide,  and  from 
eighteen  to  twenty  inches  deep.  This  will  afford  room  for  six  or  eight  tubs 
in  summer,  and  will  prove  one  of  the  best  tanks  for  wintering  stock  ;  using  a 
frame  and  sashes,  and  in  severe  weather  a  shutter  or  covering  of  salt  hay  or 


FRAMES.  19 

litter,  and  banking  leaves,  and  litter  or  green  manure  around  the  frames.  Two 
or  more  permanent  frames  may  be  of  great  service,  and  can  be  used  as  an 
auxiliary  for  bringing  forward  plants  for  setting  in  the  ornamental  pond,  and 
also  for  wintering  the  hardy  species  ;  they  can  also  be  used  for  growing  the 
tender  Nymphaeas  during  both  summer  and  winter,  provided  they  are 
furnished  with  means  for  heating.  The  frame  and  sashes  can  be  removed  as 
soon  as  warm  equable  weather  sets  in.  A  shallow  tank,  twelve  to  fifteen  inches 
in  depth,  would  be  found  very  serviceable  for  growing  plants  in  pots. 


CHAPTER  III. 

SOIL. 

NOT  A  FEW  wlio  have  attempted,  or  contemplate,  growing  aquatics  over- 
look the  great  need — absolute  necessity — of  a  very  rich  soil,  and  plenty 
of  it,  to  have  these  plants  grow  successfully.  The  fact  is,  this  is  of  more 
importance  than  water,  for,  saving  a  few  floating  species,  plants  cannot  grow 
in  water  only,  and  not  infrequently  during  the  drouth  of  summer  is  the  native 
Pond  Lily,  Nymphasa  odorata,  to  be  seen  high  and  dry,  the  water  having 
receded;  and  when  grown  in  tubs,  and  often  in  natural  and  artificial  ponds, 
when  over-crowded,  the  leaves  will  stand  out  above  the  water.  While  most 
aquatics  will  flourish  in  a  soft,  muddy  soil  (as  is  to  be  found  in  most  ponds  from 
an  accumulation  of  humus,  decayed  vegetable  matter,  and  dead  leaves),  it  is 
not  advisable  to  select  such  soil  for  the  artificial  cultivation  of  the  plants. 

The  best  selection  would  be  good  turfy  loam,  from  sods  cut  from  a  pasture 
and  laid  in  a  pile,  adding  one-third  to  one-half  well  rotted  cow  manure,  stable, 
or  farmyard  manure,  where  a  liberal  admixture  of  cow  manure  is  assured,  or 
old  hotbed  manure,  whichever  is  available.  The  fall  is  the  best  time  to  stack 
soil,  and  it  should  be  kept  dry.  If  no  shed  be  convenient,  cover  the  pile  with 
boards,  or  some  arrangement  for  throwing  off  water.  Where  ponds  are  to  be 
planted  in  spring,  and  as  late  as  May,  a  pile  may  be  made  a  few  weeks  before 
needed.  After  it  has  lain  three  or  four  weeks,  the  whole  should  be  turned,  chop- 
ping it  down  so  as  to  cut  the  fibre  mass  and  thoroughly  incorporate  the  manure. 

In  filling  tubs  or  boxes  for  planting,  use  all  the  rough  pieces  of  sods, 
throwing  away  nothing  but  stones,  or  such  hard  substances  as  will  not  rot. 
Where  good  barnyard  manure  is  obtainable,  it  is  unnecessary  to  use  artificial 
manure,  such  as  bone  dust  or  horn  shavings,  but  where  there  is  a  deficiency, 
such  may  be  used  with  advantage — say  one  six-inch  pot  full  to  a  barrow  load 
of  soil.      Another  good   fertilizer  is  sheep   manure.       This  is  much    stronger 


SOIL.  23 

than  other  manures — cow  or  farmyard — and  should  be  used  in  proportion  of 
one  to  nine.  These  manures  should  not  be  added  to  the  soil  until  it  is  to  be 
used  for  potting  or  planting.  This  soil  is  suitable  for  all  aquatics  grown  in 
pots,  tubs,  or  boxes,  or  planted  out  in  artificial  ponds. 

The  quantity  of  soil  necessary  for  a  plant  depends  very  much  on  the 
species  and  the  surface  water  space  allowed  for  the  plant.  If  the  pond  be  of 
only  moderate  size,  and  it  is  desirable  to  grow  as  many  kinds  as  possible,  use 
tubs,  or  half  barrels  or  boxes,  containing  five  or  six  cubic  feet  of  soil  for  such 
as  Nymphasa  zanzibarensis,  N.  devoniensis,  N.  dentata,  or  other  strong  grow- 
ing species;  for  moderate  growers,  such  as  N.  pygmaea  and  its  hybrids,  half 
the  quantity  allowed  for  the  stronger  one  will  suffice. 

When  Nelumbiums  are  grown  in  boxes  or  tubs,  allow  double  the  quantity 
of  soil  as  for  the  former,  since  these  plants  are  voracious  feeders,  and  often 
when  their  culture  has  proved  a  failure  and  a  disappointment  it  was  really  a 
case  of  starvation.  Feed  these  plants  liberally  and  they  will  respond  by  a 
generous  display  of  their  queenly  flowers. 

Where  a  large  fountain  basin,  tank,  or  pond  afl^ords  ample  space  for  free 
development,  and  where  flowers  of  the  first  size  and  quality  are  desired,  use 
shallow  boxes,  ten  to  twelve  inches  deep,  and  three  to  four  feet  square, 
placed  on  the  bottom.  It  will  be  necessary  to  place  these  in  position  before 
being  filled  with  soil,  and  the  water  must  necessarily  be  drawn  off". 


CHAPTER  IV. 

TREATMENT    OF    MARGINS. 

THE  MARGIN  of  the  pond  is  every  bit  as  important  as  the  pond  itself, 
and  must  receive  the  same  care  and  consideration  in  the  planting.  As 
the  frame  is  to  a  picture  so  is  the  margin  or  border  to  the  pond — it  may  make  or 
mar.  The  first  consideration  must  be  the  occupants  of  the  pond  ;  to  arrange 
all  in  such  a  manner  that  the  surroundings  add  to,  not  detract  from,  the  main 
feature,  at  the  same  time  to  form  another  distinct  feature  should  be  the  object 

As  no  two  ponds  are  precisely  the  same,  the  general  features  must  be  con 
sidered.  As  before  mentioned  trees  and  shrubbery  are  essential  as  wind-breaks 
and  where  these  are  already  in  existence,  they  should  be  taken  into  considera 
tion  when  laying  out  the  water  garden ;  they  not  only  are  necessary  as  wind 
breaks,  but  are  an  important  and  indispensable  part  of  the  landscape,  and  a 
source  of  pleasure  and  comfort  as  shade  factors,  under  which  seats  may  be 
placed  for  the  languid,  whence  a  pleasant  inspection  of  the  occupants  of  the 
pond  may  be  made  without  the  observer  being  subjected  to  the  scorching  rays 
of  a  midsummer  sun.  Where  such  trees  are  not  available  a  rustic  summer 
house  covered  with  climbing  vines  will  afford  a  welcome  resort. 

Where  a  few  tubs  comprise  the  water  garden  they  should  be  sunk  in  the 
ground  to  the  level  of  the  tops,  not  close  together,  but  leaving  a  space  of  from 
twelve  to  eighteen  inches  between;  the  intervening  space  being  planted  with 
Lysimachia  nummularia,  which  makes  a  delightful  carpet  of  light,  glossy 
green.  If  Nehimbiums  be  included  in  the  collection  of  aquatics,  these  may  be 
placed  in  the  centre  of  the  group  or,  on  the  northwest  side,  or  to  the  rear,  the 
group  being  backed  with  Ornamental  Grasses,  with  sub-tropical  plants  such  as 
Musa  ensete,  Ricinus,  Cannas,  and  others. 

A  pond  (made  of  masonry)  in  the  lawn  will  be  surrounded  with  the  green- 
.sward,  and,  as  elsewhere  recommended,  the  top  of  the  wall  should  be  so  sunk  as 


NYMPHyEA  GRACILIS. 
This,  a  native  of  Mexico,  is  the  only  known  white  day-flowering  tender  Water  Lily.    The  flowers  are  borne  on  stout  stems,  10-12 
inches  above  the  surface  of  the  water;   sepals  greenish  white;    stamens  rich  golden  yellow;    deliciously  fragrant, 
resembling  the  Lily-of-the-Valley.    It  will  doubtless  be  the  parent  of  other  valuable  additions  to  our  list  of  Water  Lilies, 
and  we  have  already  a  grand  blue  form. 


Library 
N".  C.  State  Collec« 


ARTIFICIAL  PONDS.  25 

to  be  covered  by  the  sod.  If  such  a  pond  or  tank  be  of  irregidar  outline  and 
from  fifty  to  sixty  feet  iniength,  ample  space  will  be  afforded  for  the  effective 
planting  of  large  clumps  of  Arundos,  Bamboos,  Erianthus,  Musas,  etc. ,  in  the 
rear,  and  at  the  same  time  allow  sufficient  space  for  one  to  walk  between  them 
and  the  pond,  so  as  to  inspect  the  occupants  of  the  latter.  If  chimps  of  Lotus 
be  planted  in  sections  of  the  pond  at  the  rear,  little  space  will  be  left  for  any 
other  plants  in  the  pond  save  a  tub  or  two  of  Papyrus  antiquorum  and  Cyperus 
alternifolius  (Umbrella  Grass).  Next  to  the  grasses,  shrubs  with  evergreen 
and  deciduous  trees  should  be  planted  if  such  be  not  already  there  to  give  pro- 
tection against  high  winds.  In  case  of  a  tank,  such  as  is  pictured  on  page  27, 
where  the  brickwork  is  seen  above  ground,  a  frame  and  sashes  can  be  used  for 
early  and  late  protection,  but  on  the  other  hand,  little  can  be  done  in  the  way 
of  planting  on  the  margins,  yet  a  few  plants,  such  as  Acorus  calamus,  A.  c, 
variegatus.  Iris  Ksempferi,  I.  pseudo-acorus,  Papyrus  antiquorum,  Cyperus 
alternifolius,  Limnocharis  Plumieri,  Scirpus,  and  Sagittarias,  can  be  grown  in 
pots  and  placed  on  pot  stands  or  inverted  pots,  so  as  to  bring  the  roots  of  the 
plants  near  the  surface  of  the  water.  If  the  rear  of  the  pond  be  flanked  by 
trees  as  shown  in  the  picture,  the  Iris,  Scirpus,  and  Cyperus,  together  with  Iris 
Kasmpferi  may  be  planted  in  the  ground  near  the  pond  where  they  can  enjoy 
a  liberal  supply  of  water  at  all  times. 

Fountain  basins  with  ornamental  copings  are  sometimes  surrounded  by  a 
gravel  walk  which  affords  a  good  opportunity  of  inspection  of  the  flowers  in 
the  fountain,  but  the  stone  coping  and  the  gravel  walks  do  not  harmonize  with 
the  water  and  aquatic  plants,  and  should  be  relieved  by  a  border  of  green- 
sward ;  this,  however,  should  be  omitted  where,  as  in  some  public  places,  it  is 
necessary  to  have  a  sign  imploring  people  to  "keep  off  the  grass!" 

A  border  of  plants  with  glaring  colors  is  most  objectionable  and  detracts 
from  the  central  or  main  feature  of  the  fountain  basin  and  its  contents,  but  a 
border  of  Grasses,  Rushes,  and  Iris,  together  with  Zizania  aquatica,  Typha  lati- 
folia,  and  T.  minimamay  be  planted  in  boxes  and  distributed  irregularly  around 
the  margin  inside  the  basin,  bringing  the  boxes  near  the  surface  of  the  water, 
allowing  a  depth  of  from  three  to  six  inches  above  the  soil.  Between  the  taller 
plants  clumps  of  Water  Poppy  (Limnocharis  Humboldti),  Eichornia  azurea, 
Eichornia  crassipes  major  (Water  Hyacinth),  and  Pistia  stratiotes  (Water 
Lettuce)  may  be  introduced ;  the  last  two  are  floating  plants  and  should  be  kept 
in  place  by  hoops  or  wire  netting  supported  by  stakes  and  brought  near  the 
surface  (yet  out  of  sight),  so  as  to  keep  the  plants  in  place. 


2  6  ROCKERY  EFFECT. 

A  beautiful  effect  is  produced  where  the  landscape  affords  a  natural  blufl: 
or  bank  as  shown  in  the  illustration  on  page  21 ;  from  such  a  point  of  vantage 
a  good  view  is  had,  overlooking  the  pond  and  its  occupants. 

Where  rocks  are  available  an  entirely  different  and  desirable  feature  may 


EULALIA  JAPONICA. 
n  here  to  perfection.    Planted  < 


isolated  position  is  the  best  for  i 


be  added  to  the  water  garden.  They  should  be  arranged  in  such  a  manner  as 
to  produce  a  natural  and  pleasing  effect  (see  illus.  page  15);  too  often  the 
rockery  represents  nothing  more  than  a  pile  of  stones  laid  up  in  a  conventional 
manner  as  if  the  main  object  had  been   to  get  rid  of  an  incumbrance  and   to 


5  g, 


ill! 

'lis 

2    £  S  2i 


=  ill 


i  II- 


~  o 

e  "5 


2f 


NATURAL   PONDS.  29 

occupy  as  little  space  as  possible.  Bold  rocks  should  be  used  wherever 
possible  and  especially  where  the  pond  is  of  large  dimensions.  Ferns,  Bam- 
boos, shrubs  and  trees  planted  on  the  face  of  such  and  in  the  background 
are  very  effective;  and  if  it  be  possible,  a  stream  of  water,  natural  or  artificial, 
should  take  its  course  over  the  rocks  into  the  pond  below.  Nothing,  indeed, 
could  be  more  picturesque  than  such  a  scheme  properly  carried  out. 

A  pond  of  irregular  outline,  either  on  the  lawn  or  surrounded  by  a  gravel 
walk  or  drive,  may  afford  ample  space  for  numerous  plants  in  clumps  or  groups, 
close  to  the  margin  and  yet  at  the  same  time  leave  opening  of  sufficient  space 
to  allow  different  views  of  the  pond  and  its  occupants. 

The  Victoria  pond  shown  on  page  35  is  an  artificial  one,  where  native 
plants  figure  largely  on  the  margin,  very  charmingly  and  effectually  obliter- 
ating any  signs  of  masonry  or  traces  of  the  fact  that  the  whole  is  artificial.  Iris 
Kaempferi,  Eulalia  in  variety,  and  Musas  were  planted,  and  native  plants  grow- 
ing wild  in  that  section  were  allowed  to  grow  and  luxuriate  in  their  own  natural 
bent  and  inclination.  As  nothing  could  be  planted  directly  in  the  pond,  the 
Nelumbiums,  Thalia,  and  Cyperus  shown  are  grown  in  tubs,  the  rich  green 
foliage — relieved  occasionally  by  the  Lotus  flowers — standing  two  to  four  feet 
above  the  surface  of  the  water,  breaking  the  line  and  giving  depth.  Shallow 
pockets  are  made  on  the  inside  margin  of  the  pond  to  hold  soil  for  such  plants 
as  Limnanthemum  indicum,  Limnocharis  Humboldti,  Myosotis,  Eichornia 
azurea,  Callas,  Lobelias,  Scirpus,  Sagittarlas — all  of  which  delight  in  shallow 
water.  Where  these  are  not  damaged  by  overhanging  luxuriant  growth  of 
the  plants  on  the  outer  margin  of  the  pond,  they  form  a  most  pleasing  and 
artistic  method  of  planting  the  edge  of  artificial  areas. 

The  dealing  with  the  margin  of  a  natural  piece  of  water  is  not  so  difficult 
as  the  manipulation  of  the  edge  of  an  artificial,  cemented,  or  walled  pond.  As 
a  rule,  the  water  near  the  edge,  or  at  least  a  part  of  it,  will  be  shallow,  and 
many  plants  delighting  in  just  such  conditions  as  are  thus  afforded  may  be 
planted  with  telling  effect.  Whatever  may  be  the  piece  of  water  that  is  to  be 
planted,  the  margin  should  receive  first  consideration:  the  water  line  should 
present  an  irregular  outline,  no  straight,  parallel,  or  regular  lines  should  be 
permitted;  shallow  pools  and  bays  should  be  constructed  where  necessary,  if 
such  do  not  exist  naturally,  for  such  plants  as  flourish  in  shallow  water. 
Clumps  of  shrubbery,  subtropical  perennial  plants,  with  large  shade  trees, 
forming  a  secluded  and  quiet  retreat  as  is  so  well  represented  in  the  illustration 
on  page  31,  must  be  borne  in  mind.    Under  such  trees,  and  through  shrubbery, 


30  SHALLOW   MARGINS. 

circuitous  walks  should  lead  to  the  margin  of  the  pond  at  different  points 
whence  views  of  some  choice  variety  or  groups  of  plants  are  prominently- 
brought  into  line.  Along  such  walks  and  under  the  shade  of  the  trees  should  be 
seen  groups  of  native  and  other  hardy  flowers,  Ferns,  Orchids,  etc.,  and  if  a 
spring  and  stream  exist  meandering  toward  the  pond,  the  margin  of  the  same 
should  be  clothed  with  such  plants  as  Ferns  (See  Fern  Chapter),  Forget-me- 
not,  Cardinal  flowers,  Impatiens  (Touch-me-not),  Caltha  palustris,  Sarracenias 
and  other  Pitcher  plants. 

Clumps  of  Cat-tails  should  be  planted  near  the  edge  and  inward.  Ponte- 
deria  cordata  delights  in  shallow  water  as  do  all  Scirpus,  Acorus  Calamus, 
Japan  Iris,  Sagittaria,  Jussiaea,  etc. ;  these  should  be  planted  in  large  patches 
in  shallow  water,  which  may  vary  from  two  to  five  feet  from  the  edge  of  the 
pond;  also  Papynis  antiquorum  (see  plate  facing  page  72),  the  latter  is  not 
hardy,  and  requires  protection  in  a  warm  greenhouse  during  winter;  here  too, 
is  a  fitting  place  for  Zizania  aquatica,  one  of  the  most  picturesque  of  hardy 
native  aquatic  plants,  but  it  is  an  annual  and  will  spread  along  the  whole 
margin  if  not  pulled  out  early  in  spring  where  it  is  not  wanted,  for  otherwise 
it  will  smother  other  plants.  Another  very  desirable  plant,  and  one  of  the 
grandest  of  our  native  flower  plants,  is  Hibiscus  moscheutos;  this  is  a  strong 
and  vigorous  grower  and  requires  room — eight  to  ten  feet  for  a  single  specimen. 
Orontium  aquaticum  and  Peltandra  virginica  should  find  a  place  on  the  margin 
in  shallow  water.  On  the  water  edge,  on  slightly  rising  ground,  bold  clumps 
of  Ornamental  Grasses  and  Bamboos  should  be  planted  not  too  close,  and  for 
bold  foliage  efliect,  Musa  ensete,  Paulownia,  Caladium  esculentum,  Fatsia, 
Aralia,  Maranta,  and  other  plants  (their  name  is  legion),  not  included  in  this 
list,  will  suggest  themselves.  They  will,  with  these,  prove  most  appropriate 
and  will  appear  as  in  their  native  haunts  if  planted  in  the  water  garden. 

Since  no  two  ponds  are  precisely  the  same,  no  absolute  guide  can  be  given ; 
individual  taste  and  judgment  must  be  exercised  in  the  selection  of  the  plants 
for  each  individual  case.  Overcrowding  must  be  avoided  ;  it  is  almost  im- 
possible to  have  each  and  every  appropriate  plant  represented  on  the  margin 
of  a  single  pond. 


•:2i 


:^   ij  5  c 
-   '^  ^  ^ 


3!h 


CHAPTER  V. 

PLANTING. 

THE  SEASON  for  planting  will  vary  according  to  locality  and  section,  but 
it  may  be  considered  perfectly  safe  to  plant  all  hardy  Nymphaeas 
and  other  aquatics  (except  Nelumbiums)  as  soon  as  vegetation  is  assured. 
Where  the  native  species  grow  wild,  just  as  soon  as  the  ponds  are  clear  of 
ice  the  young  leaves  of  the  plants  are  to  be  seen,  thus  demonstrating  that  they 
start  early  into  growth;  when  such  is  perceptible  it  is  time  to  plant  or 
transplant.  The  natural  order  for  planting  appears  to  be:  First,  hardy 
Nymphjeas;  .secondly,  Nelumbiums;  thirdly,  tropical  or  tender  Nymphasas, 
and  lastly,  Victoria  Regia,  if  not  in  an  artificially  heated  pond. 

The  practice  of  planting  out  is  not  commendable  unless  in  a  moderately- 
sized  pond,  where  a  plank  will  reach  over  from  side  to  side,  avoiding  the 
necessity  of  tramping  through  the  plants  to  clean  off  any  dead  leaves,  or  to  cut 
a  flower,  and  thereby  making  the  pond  and  plants  muddy  and  dirty,  besides 
doing  much  injury  to  the  plants  by  breaking  imseen  roots  and  rhizomes.  In 
larger  pieces  of  water  and  in  artificial  ponds  (whether  puddled  with  clay  or 
bviilt  of  masonry)  it  is  better  to  have  boxes  or  tubs  for  the  plants  to 
grow  in.  These,  if  large,  should  be  placed  in  position  before  being  filled 
with  soil ;  small  boxes  or  tubs  may  be  filled  and  planted  before  being  put 
into  the  pond.  After  the  filled  but  unplanted  tubs  are  in  position  and 
covered  with  sand,  the  pond  should  be  partly  filled  with  water  to  say,  4  or  6 
inches  above  the  tops  of  the  boxes  or  tubs.  At  no  time  allow  the  plants 
to  be  exposed  to  the  drying  action  of  the  sun  or  air,  as  they  will  then 
very  soon  wilt  and  be  seriously  damaged,  indeed,  in  many  cases  such 
drying,  while  waiting  for  the  pond  to  fill  up  would  be  fatal.  The  work  of 
planting  in  the  submerged  tubs  can  easily  be  accomplished  by  a  man  with 
rubber  boots  on. 


34  PLANTING  NHLVMBIVMS. 

When  it  is  deemed  best  to  plant  out  the  Lilies  in  the  pond  itself,  put  from 
twelve  to  fifteen  inches  of  soil  over  the  bottom,  or  on  that  section  of  the  pond 
which  is  to  be  planted.  Make  the  soil  moderately  firm  in  either  instance,  and 
in  all  cases  cover  the  surface  with  an  inch  or  two  of  sand,  this  to  prevent  the 
manure  from  rising  or  mixing  with  the  water,  thus  giving  it  the  appearance  of 
liquid  manure,  which  would  be  most  objectionable. 

The  Native  Water  Lily,  Nymph;ea  odorata,  and  its  varieties,  have  a 
rhizomateous  creeping  root  stock  sending  out  numerous  side  shoots;  a  good, 
healthy  root  with  a  plump  leading  shoot  is  sufficient  to  make  a  good,  strong 
plant,  and  produce  a  good  crop  of  flowers  the  first  season.  When  planting,  all 
that  is  necessary  is  to  press  the  roots  into  the  soft  soil,  leaving  them  some- 
what obliquely  with  the  crown  just  under  the  soil.  The  European  species  and 
its  hybrids  grow  more  compactly,  making  large  clumps  and  specimen  plants; 
others,  particularly  Nymphaea  pygmaea,  produce  no  sideshoots  or  offsets,  having 
but  the  single  crown,  and  are  but  moderate  growers. 

New  plants  may  be  set  out  after  growth  is  apparent  at  any  time  during 
the  season,  and  as  late  as  August ;  or  plants  from  pots,  and  which  have  several 
leaves  may  be  used,  but  to  produce  flowers  the  same  season,  plant  early. 
Pot  plants  with  a  ball  of  soil  and  roots  are  in  the  best  condition  for  planting. 
In  planting,  remove  a  small  proportion  of  the  prepared  soil  (sufficient  to  make 
a  hole  to  hold  the  plant),  afterward,  make  all  secure,  and  level  off  similarly  to 
planting  in  a  flower-bed.  It  is  immaterial  whether  or  not  the  water  be 
deeper  than  that  in  which  the  plants  have  been  growing  previously;  the  plant 
will  adjust  itself  to  the  new  quarters,  and  in  an  incredibly  short  space  of  time 
the  leaves  will  be  floating  on  the  surface  of  the  water,  even  if  svibmerged  two 
feet  at  the  time  of  planting. 

Nelumbiums  are  impatient  of  removal,  and  should  not  be  disturbed  in 
their  winter  quarters,  or  transplanted  until  there  is  warm,  settled  weather, 
new  growth  perceptible,  and  the  conditions  of  the  pond  such  as  to  insure  active 
growth  at  once.  Such  conditions  exist  about  the  middle  or  end  of  April,  and 
during  May,  according  to  the  section  of  country.  Nelumbiums  should  not  be 
planted  in  a  small  pond  where  Nymphaeas  are  growing,  unless  a  division  wall 
confine  them  to  a  given  space,  or  they  will  soon  ramble  over  the  whole  pond, 
and  the  dense  foliage  will  then  smother  the  Nymphaeas  out  of  existence.  The 
tubers  of  Nelumbiums  vary  in  size  from  a  few  inches  to  three  feet  in  length, 
but  the  latter  is  exceptional ;  they  are  very  brittle,  and  care  should  be  taken  in 
handling  and  planting  that   the   roots  are   not  bruised  or  damaged.      A  good 


III 


I'LAXTIXC   WMPH.^AS.  37 

tuber  should  possess  an  unbroken  leading  shoot,  and  a  small  lateral  one  at  the 
base;  an  extra  size  root  more  often  consists  of  two  sections,  thus  having  a 
leading  shoot  and  two  smaller  ones. 

In  planting,  place  the  tuber  horizontally  in  the  soil,  about  three  inches 
under  the  surface,  and  cover  the  whole  root;  if  necessary,  place  a  brick  or 
some  other  h^avy  article  upon  it,  to  keep  it  from  rising  and  floating  on  the 
surface.  Small  tubers  may  be  started  in  pots,  or  in  wooden  pails,  and  thus 
treated,  are  preferable  for  planting  in  Northern  sections  where  the  season  is 
late.  Nelumbiums  grown  in  tubs  should  have  more  soil  than  is  allowed  for 
Nymphaeas,  and  a  larger  tub,  say  a  half-hogshead,  so  as  to  give  all  possible 
soil  (plant  food)  during  the  growing  season.  The  tubs  may  be  filled  to  within 
two  inches  of  the  top,  giving  a  rich  top-dressing,  also  giving  the  plants  frequent 
waterings  with  liquid  manure.  This,  of  course,  applies  only  to  tubs  that  are  not 
submerged  in  a  pond. 

Tropical  or  Tender  Nvmplneag  should  not  be  planted  out  until  settled 
warm  weather  is  assured ;  this  will  be  sometime  from  the  middle  of  May  to 
the  first  week  of  June.  A  good  rule  may  be  to  plant  them  out  when  it  is 
considered  safe  to  plant  out  tender  bedding  plants  such  as  Coleus  and  Alter- 
nanthera.  As  our  summers  are  none  too  early  or  too  long  for  these  plants  to 
fully  develop,  it  is  advisable  to  have  these  plants  well  advanced  before  being 
planted  out,  and  if  plants  have  to  be  procured  from  a  distance,  and  only  a  few 
are  required,  it  is  better  to  secure  them  three  or  four  weeks  before  the  time  of 
planting  out  in  permanent  quarters,  repotting  them  info  a  size  larger  pot,  or 
according  to  size  and  condition  of  the  plants,  using  soil  as  before  recommended. 
Place  these  in  tubs  of  water,  and  give  them  every  chance  to  grow.  If  a  few 
hotbed  sash  are  at  command,  the  tubs  may  be  placed  or  plunged  in  a  frame, 
and  covered  with  the  sash.  If  this  protection  cannot  be  afforded,  some  warm 
sheltered  spot  may  be  found,  and  the  plants  protected  from  cold  winds  and 
nights,  this  will  accelerate  active  growth,  and  ensure  earlier  blooming,  thus 
prolonging  the  season  by  several  weeks. 

It  is  sometimes  desirable  to  retard  the  blooming  of  hardy  Nymphseas,  so  as 
to  bring  them  into  flower  somewhat  later  than,  or  at  the  same  as,  the  tender 
ones.  This  may  be  done  where  these  are  grown  in  tubs  or  boxes,  or  planted 
out;  draw  off  the  water,  thus  exposing  the  crowns  of  the  plants,  which  must  be 
kept  out  of  the  water,  but  must  not  be  dried  up  by  the  action  of  the  sun  and 
air;  cover  with  sphagnum  and  keep  moist  (branches  or  bracken  may  also  be 
laid  over  them  to  shade  from  sun  and  keep  from  drying).      The  roots  may  also 


38  PLANTING  NYMPH.EAS. 

be  "heeled  in"  in  a  enkl  frame,  or  a  shady  border,  before  growth  eom- 
mences,  and  well  watered  to  settle  the  soil  around  the  roots;  these,  kept  shaded, 
may  be  held  some  time,  at  least  until  it  is  time  to  plant  the  tender  aquatics. 

After  the  plants  are  in  their  summer  quarters  little  remains  to  be  done; 
the  overflow  having  been  lixed  so  that  the  water  level  will  be  about  six  inches 
below  full  water  mark.  After  the  plants  have  made  a  good  start  and  are 
growing  vigorously,  the  water  should  be  raised  to  the  full  height,  and  any  scum 
that  may  collect  on  the  surface  should  be  cleared  off  by  the  use  of  the  garden 
hose,  spraying  towards  the  flow;  attention  must  be  given  that  the  pond  be  kept 
full  to  running  over,  as  there  will  be  more  or  less  evaporation  taking  place, 
conditional  on  the  weather  and  quantity  of  surface  clear;  after  the  surface  is 
covered  with  foliage,  evaporation  will  be  less.  As  the  season  advances,  tm- 
sightly  and  dead  leaves  should  be  removed;  conferva;  may  accumulate,  but 
the  amount  of  care  and  attention  necessary  will  be  comparatively  small. 


c    =    5    5 

5-^  ^  "5 


NYMPH/EA  GIGANTEA 
The  illustration  represents  an  individual  flower  reduced  one-third.     It  is  entirely  distinct  from  any  other  species  of  Nymphsea.    The 
color  is  purple  in  bud,  changing  on  opening  to  a  soft  satiny  blue,  shading  to  white,  the  yellow  stamens  are  slender  and  incurv- 
ing.   The  plant  requires  a  temperature  of  from  80°  to  90°  to  start  either  seed  or  tubers  and  ample  root  room  prior  to  planting 
in  permanent  quarters,  avoiding  at  al  1  times  a  sudden  fluctuation  in  temperature  or  disturbing  of  the  roots.  Native  of  Australia. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

HYBRIDIZING,  SEED  SAVING,  WINTERING. 

HYBRIDIZING  or  cross-fertilization  of  Water  Lily  flowers  and  the  raising 
of  such  progeny  is  always  a  source  of  great  pleasure,  and  all  who  grow 
Water  Lilies  may  partake  of  this  diversion.  The  large  list  of  Nymphaeas  now 
under  cultivation  embraces  numerous  varieties,  surpassing  original  species, 
due  to  the  exercise  of  this  art.  Few  good  things  are  traceable  to  "luck"  or 
"chance"  in  either  the  animal  or  vegetable  kingdom;  to  achieve  anything 
worthy  of  special  merit,  requires  a  practical  knowledge  of  the  different 
species  or  varieties. 

With  a  special  object  in  view,  pick  out  the  varieties  for  the  separate  parent 
plants;  having  selected  these  among  Nymphaeas,  what  is  to  be  the  seed  bearing 
plant  must  be  closely  watched,  and  the  flower  stripped  of  its  stamens  the 
first  day  of  opening,  and  a  piece  of  fine  gauze  tied  over  the  flower  to  exclude 
any  insect  that  might  alight  on  it  and  thus  deposit  any  foreign  pollen.  On  the 
second  day,  gather  the  pollen  from  the  selected  pollen-bearing  plant,  using  for 
the  purpose  a  soft  camel's  hair  pencil,  and  deposit  the  same  on  the  stigmas  of 
the  selected  flower.  This  operation  must  be  performed  without  wetting  either 
flower,  and  must  necessarily  be  done  on  a  fine  day.  The  flower  must  be 
re-covered  with  the  gauze  immediately  after  the  operation,  and  remain  covered 
xmtil  the  flower  dies  off.  Should  there  be  a  scarcity  of  pollen  on  the  selected 
plant  or  flower,  repeat  the  operation  on  the  next  day.  When  the  fertilized 
flower  dies  off  and  shows  unmistakable  signs  of  having  been  impregnated, 
secure  seed  pod  in  a  muslin  bag,  wait  until  it  ripens,  and  in  due  course  of  time 
gather  the  seed  and  wash  it,  then  either  dry  and  store  it  away  until  it  is  time 
to  sow,  or  sow  at  once,  as  the  necessities  of  the  case  may  determine. 

SEED  SAVING. 
Nymphsea    species  and  some   crosses  produce  seed  very  freely.      Some 
species  are  only  propagated  by  seed,  but  several  varieties  do  not  produce  seed 


42  SEED   SAVING. 

at  all.  Young  plants  that  show  a  tendency  to  produce  seed,  should  have  the 
dead  flowers  taken  off,  to  allow  the  plant  to  attain  vigor  and  maturity  before 
ripening  seed.  The  native  Nymphsea  odorata,  N.  tuberosa,  and  most  of  their 
forms  produce  seed  freely.  A  very  large  percentage  of  what  is  produced  is 
devoured  by  fish,  turtles,  etc. ,  and  it  is  difficult  to  save  or  harvest  seed,  except 
in  small  ponds,  where  it  is  not  difficult  to  get  at  the  seed  pods  or  capsules  ; 
they  should  be  tied  in  muslin  bags  and  be  collected  at  intervals.  As  soon  as  the 
seed  is  ripe,  the  pods  burst  and  the  seed  rises  to  the  surface,  but  if  tied  up  in  a  bag, 
is  prevented  from  rising  and  spreading  over  the  surface,  and  is  easily  collected. 

Where  this  is  not  practicable,  a  careful  lookout  for  the  seed  must  be  made 
about  a  month  after  the  flower  fades,  quantities  of  seed  can  be  skimmed  off  the 
surface  of  the  water  as  soon  as  the  capsule  bursts,  but  after  a  daj^  or  two,  the 
seed  all  disappear;  it  either  sinks  to  the  bottom  or  floats  to  the  edges  of  the 
pond,  or  is  washed  away. 

The  tender  Nymphasas,  such  as  N.  zanzibarensis  and  its  forms,  and  N. 
dentata,  also  produce  seed  freely.  Select  strong  plants,  and  allow  only  two  or 
three  pods  to  mature  on  each  plant;  the  seed  of  these  species  is  much  finer  or 
smaller  than  those  of  the  hardy  ones,  and  if  not  secured  in  bags,  it  is  impossible 
to  collect  it  off  the  surface  of  the  water. 

As  the  bags  are  collected,  allow  them  to  remain  in  water  two  or  three 
days  before  washing,  and  do  not  expose  to  full  sun,  as  the  extreme  heat  of 
August  will  cause  the  seed  to  sprout  and  render  it  worthless  for  keep- 
ing. Provide  a  fine  and  a  coarse  sieve;  the  mesh  of  the  coarse  one  should  be 
about  the  size  of  that  of  ordinary  mosquito  netting,  this  will  allow  the  seed  of 
the  tender  species  (with  the  exception  of  N.  gigantea)  to  pass  through,  thus 
separating  the  seed  from  the  dead  parts  of  the  flower  and  capsule.  A  fine 
wire  sieve  or  a  gravy  strainer,  the  size  of  a  large  cup,  is  an  excellent  article  to 
use  for  collecting  the  seed.  It  is  necessary  to  use  plenty  of  water  in  washing 
and  cleaning  the  seed,  the  seed  of  the  hardy  Nymphaeas  being  larger  and 
heavier,  readily  sinks  in  water,  and  is  easy  to  clean. 

As  each  lot  is  washed,  it  should  be  laid  on  thick  paper  with  the  name 
written  on  it,  and  then  be  securely  stored  away  in  an  airy  place  to  dry,  airy, 
yet  secure  from  wind  and  mice;  after  it  is  dry,  the  seed  may  be  stored  away  in 
paper  packets,  (wax  or  parchment  paper  preferable),  or  put  into  tin  boxes  and 
kept  in  a  dry  cool  place  until  wanted  for  sowing. 

Some  seed  is  best  sown  at  once,  and  if  seedlings  can  be  carried  overwinter, 
they  will  make  strong  plants  early  in  the  season.     It  is  perhaps  best  to  sow  all 


I'LANTINCi 


I'lEL'E    OF    WATKI 


.4  natural  pond  in  part,  showing-  Egyptian  Lotus  and  Water  Lilies  in  tite  foreground,  with 
eluwp.s  of  ornamental  Grasses,  such  as  Erianthns,  Eulalia,  Papyrus,  and  Musas  on  tlie  margin, 
with  Sour  Gum,  Maple,  and  fliestnut  trees  in  tlie  hacliground.  Tlie  treatment  of  tlie  margin 
liere  shown  is  suitable  for  large  ponds  with  ample  space  for  forest  trees  and  park-like  laud- 
seape.  The  picture  has  the  false  a/iiieanince  of  the  plants  being  crowded;  this  is  owing-  to 
reduction,  and  to  the  fact  that  only  a  small  part  of  the  pond  is  visible.  The  plants  are: 
Erianthus  Rarennse ;  Eulalia  Japonica  variegata  ;  Musa  ensete.  larne  specimen  :  I'ajiyrus 
antiijuoruni ;  Eulalia  Japonica  zebrina. 


CARRYING     OVER:     WINTERING.  45 

hardy  kinds  as  soon  as  ripe,  but  this  is  not  absolutely  necessary,  but  the  best 
results  have  been  obtained  in  this  way  in  some  cases,  particularly  with  Nym- 
phsea  pygmaea  and  N.  gigantea;  some  of  the  same  seed  carried  over  to  spring 
failed  to  germinate. 

CARRYING    OVER:    WINTERING. 

Nymphseas  of  the  stellata  type,  such  as  N.  ciErulea,  N.  zanzibarensis,  etc., 
differ  from  other  tropical  kinds  in  that  they  do  not  send  out  side  shoots,  but  are 
mostly  confined  to  one  central  crown,  such  plants  are  difficult  to  keep  over 
winter,  as  they  will  not  make  tubers,  but  will  invariably  rot  if  any  attempt  be 
made  to  dry  them  off.  Should  it  be  desirable  to  save  or  retain  a  special  plant 
of  this  type  for  another  season  or  otherwise,  the  plant  should  be  lifted  and 
reduced  in  size  (both  leaves  and  roots),  and  planted  in  a  tub  or  large  pot, 
placed  in  a  tub  or  tank  of  water  and  kept  thus  growing  on.  The  water  need 
not  be  above  a  temperature  of  65°,  and  during  cold  weather  the  plant  will  not 
suffer  in  a  temperature  of  60°,  but  in  the  former  temperature  the  plant  will 
keep  growing  and  produce  some  flowers  all  through  winter. 

The  tubers  of  all  tender  Nymphaeas  may  be  kept  in  moist  sand,  or  sandy 
soil  at  a  temperature  between  50°  and  60°;  do  not  keep  too  dry,  and  at  all  times 
look  out  for  mice,  as  they  will  assuredly  find  out  the  tubers.  All  hardy 
Nymphseas  and  Nelumbiums  grown  in  tubs  must  necessarily  be  protected  from 
frost;  this  method  of  culture  is  not  natural,  hence  the  necessity  of  protection. 
Our  native  Water  Lilies  in  natural  ponds  have  above  them  sufficient  depth  of 
water  to  protect  the  roots  so  that  they  do  not  freeze.  The  tubs  can  be  wintered 
in  a  cellar,  or  plunged  in  the  ground  and  covered  with  leaves,  bracken,  or 
any  material  that  will  prevent  them  from  freezing.  Where  such  tubs  of 
Nymphasas  are  submerged  in  a  tank,  it  is  best  to  leave  them  in  position  pro- 
vided the  tank  is  frost  proof,  but  it  is  best  to  protect  the  masonry,  and  the 
whole  tank  where  subjected  to  severe  winter  freezing.  This  may  be  effected  by 
covering  with  old  lumber,  leaves,  branches,  salt  hay,  etc.,  and  where  snow  is 
generally  in  plenty,  any  material  that  will  collect  and  hold  the  snow  should  be 
used,  as  there  is  no  better  protective  material  than  snow. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

SEEDLING  PLANTS  AND  PROPAGATION. 

FROM  the  first  of  February  onward,  seeds  of  Nymph£eas  and  other  aquatics 
may  be  sown;  location,  requirements,  and  convenience  for  handling  must 
be  considered  independently.  In  good  seasons  March  is  more  favorable  for 
quick  and  healthy  growth,  and  the  resulting  seedlings  are  not  so  apt  to  get  a 
check  or  become  stunted  in  their  growth.  The  seed  may  be  sown  just  as  other 
flower  seeds,  in  pots  or  pans,  using  soil  neither  light  nor  heavy.  Soil  from  a 
pile  of  sods  and  manure  composted  the  previous  fall  will  be  in  prime  con- 
dition; if  the  soil  be  inclined  to  heavy  add  sufficient  sand  to  make  it  porous. 
If  this  soil  be  not  available  use  the  best  that  can  be  procured,  such  as  that  in 
which  it  is  known  that  other  flowers  will  grow,  but  do  not  use  fresh  manure  in 
the  soil,  as  it  will  ferment  in  the  water.  Sow  the  seed  on  a  smooth  surface 
and  cover  lightly  with  fine  sandy  soil,  after  sowing  stand  the  pots  in  water 
for  a  few  hours  until  thoroughly  soaked,  afterwards  submerge  in  water  covering 
the  pots  two  to  three  inches;  keep  the  water  at  a  temperature  of  75°  to 
80°.  The  seedlings  of  the  stellata  type  will  germinate  in  about  ten  or  fifteen 
days,  looking  somewhat  like  spears  of  grass,  the  first  leaf  will  be  visible  a  few 
days  later.  The  seed  of  Nymphasa  dentata  and  of  other  night  blooming  Water 
Lilies  requires  several  days  longer  before  germinating,  and  the  hardy  species 
longer  still.  No  definite  time  can  be  stated,  we  have  had  s.ed  germinate  six 
months  after  being  sown. 

After  the  seedlings  have  made  two  or  three  leaves  they  should  be  trans- 
planted into  other  pots  or  seed  pans,  similar  to  other  seedlings,  using  soil  as  in 
the  first  instance.  This  operation  may  at  first  be  somewhat  tedious,  but  the 
simplest  method  of  handling  these  seedlings  is  to  keep  them  in  the  water;  use 
a  flat  pointed  stick,  or  better  still,  a  piece  of  bamboo  cane,  and  having  filled 
the   pots  with  soil  covered   lightly    with   sand,   place  them  in  the  water  along- 


DIVISION.  47 

side  the  seed  pot;  select  a  plant,  take  hold  of  it  with  one  hand,  between  finger 
and  thumb,  and  with  the  stick  in  the  other  hand,  loosen  and  raise  the  plant. 
Now  it  will  appear  to  be  the  most  erratic  of  all  plants,  on  being  raised  the 
roots  are  inclined  to  cling  to  something,  and  most  particularly  to  the  leaves,  and 
to  get  tangled  together  and  seemingly  impossible  to  separate  and  straighten 
out.  When  such  is  the  case  allow  the  plant  to  float,  straightening  out  the 
roots  by  means  of  the  stick  and  then  with  a  gentle  pressure  near  the  tips  of  the 
roots  move  the  plant  to  the  desired  spot  and  press  it  gently  into  the  new  soil. 
That  is  all  that  is  necessary,  and  in  this  manner  the  work  can  be  performed 
expeditiously  and  in  good  style.  After  the  seedlings  have  made  some  good 
growth  they  should  be  potted  singly  into  small  pots  {2V2  or  3  inch),  and  when 
well  established  in  these,  repotted  into  4-inch  pots  and  from  these  into  summer 
quarters,  or  as  the  case  demands.  Do  not  allow  the  seedlings  to  remain  long 
in  the  seed  pots,  but  keep  the  young  plants  growing  steadily,  and  if  they 
appear  to  be  in  a  stand-still  condition,  wash  off  all  loose  soil  and  repot  in  fresh 
material. 

Hardy  species  that  do  not  produce  seed  may  be  propagated  by  division  of 
the  roots  or  rhizomes,  which  work  is  best  accomplished  in  spring,  and  when 
new  growth  is  assured.  Tropical  species  of  the  dentata  and  rubra  types  pro- 
duce side  shoots,  which  form  tubers  toward  the  close  of  the  season.  After  the 
leaves  are  cut  off  by  frost,  the  main  root,  with  side  shoots  attached,  should  be 
dug  up,  the  roots  trimmed,  and  any  dead  stalks  cut  off.  These  stools  may  be 
planted  under  the  benches  in  a  greenhouse  in  sandy  soil,  giving  them  a  good 
watering  to  settle  the  soil  about  the  roots;  after  a  few  days  it  may  be  necessary 
to  repeat  the  same  operation.  After  this  the  plants  may  be  allowed  to  become 
dry,  but  not  so  dry  so  as  to  shrivel.  In  this  condition  they  will  remain  sound 
and  good  for  a  long  period. 

The  most  simple  and  easy  method  of  holding  stock  plants  is  to  keep  one 
or  two  of  a  kind  in  4  or  5-inch  pots  during  the  summer;  they  will  probably 
exhaust  the  plant  food  in  these  small  pots  before  the  season  is  over,  and  may 
give  but  little  bloom,  but  show  a  tendency  to  go  to  rest  early,  the  leaves  take 
on  autumn  hues  and  tubers  are  formed.  At  the  proper  time  these  plants 
should  be  taken  out  of  the  water,  and  the  pots,  with  their  contents,  placed 
under  the  bench  in  the  greenhouse  or  other  suitable  or  convenient  place. 
If  left  too  long  in  the  water  and  the  weather  is  hot,  the  tubers  will  start  into 
growth,  and  if  taken  out  too  soon  the  tubers  may  not  be  sufficiently  ripe  to 
keep  until  they  are  wanted  to  start  in   the  following   spring.     In  spring  the 


48  SEEDLING    PLANTS. 

tubers  may  be  potted  in  fresh  soil  and  placed  in  water  at  a  temperature  of  75° 
to  80°,  when  they  will  start  into  active  growth  and  send  out  numerous  shoots 
making  separate  and  independent  growths.  Select  the  strongest  when  they 
have  three  or  four  leaves,  and  pot  into  4-inch  pots;  these  will  make  better 
plants  individually,  and  produce  larger  and  better  flowers  than  a  number  of 
smaller  plants.  As  soon  as  established  in  these  pots  they  should  be  planted  in 
permanent  summer  quarters,  or  repotted  into  6-inch  pots  if  it  be  too  early  to 
plant  out.  Others  may  be  allowed  to  finish  their  growth  in  4-inch  pots  and 
mature  tubers  for  another  year;  all  Nymphseas  that  produce  tubers  may  be 
treated  as  above  recommended. 

Victoria  and  Euryale  plants  are  annuals,  producing  no  tubers,  and  propa- 
gation is  eilected  only  by  seed ;  sow  in  February  and  March,  according  to  the 
date  when  it  is  considered  safe  for  planting  out,  allowing  between  three  and 
four  months  from  date  of  sowing  seed  to  time  for  planting. — (vSee  further 
directions  in  Chapter  IX). 


v;:'->''^'^:^;^^<"„/ 


"Xi 


wap^ 


NYMPH/EA  STURTEVANTII 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

NYMPH/EAS:    CLASSES    AND    DISTRIBUTION. 

WH(_)  IS  NOT  familiar  with  our  native  Pond  Lily,  Nymphsa  odorata,  and 
its  pink  form,  N.  o.  rosea?  These  are  admired  by  all  lovers  of  flowers; 
yes,  and  by  those  who  are  not!  The  lovely  pure  white  flowers  floating  on  the 
placid  water  in  the  early  morn,  attract  the  attention  of  the  laborer  and  artisan 
as  they  pass  by  to  their  daily  tasks  and  catch  a  breath  of  air  laden  with  the 
sweet  spicy  fragrance  of  these  charming  flowers.  Who  can  help  but  admire 
and  love  such  flowers?  In  the  western  states  Nymphsea  reniformis  (syn. 
tuberosa),  is  indigenous;  yet  another  in  the  southern  states,  also  the  yellow 
species,  flava.  Thus  we  have  three  distinct  species  in  three  colors;  white, 
yellow,  and  pink,  natives  of  the  United  States  and  the  progenitors  of  numerous 
hybrids  and  varieties  that  in  many  instances  are  superior  to  the  original  types. 
Other  countries,  too,  have  their  own  species  of  Nymphaea.  England  has  its 
white  Water  Lily,  N.  alba;  Sweden  its  pink  variety  of  that,  N.  alba  var.  rosea; 
Bohemia  has  also  its  white,  N.  Candida  ;  China  and  Japan  their  N.  pygmaea. 
These  are  all  hardy  and  will  grow  under  the  same  conditions  as  our  native 
species. 

Another  hardy  aquatic  must  not  be  overlooked  here,  it  is  the  American 
Lotus — Nelumbium  luteum.  This  grand-  Lotus  is  indigenous  to  several  sec- 
lions  of  the  United  States,  also  the  West  Indies;  it  is  nevertheless  little  known 
generally.  It  thrives  under  the  same  conditions  as  the  hardy  Nymphasas ;  its  flow- 
ers are  of  a  rich  sulphur  yellow  color,  and  is  almost  identical  with  the  Egyptian 
Lotus,  sacred  bean  of  India,  Nelumbium  speciosum,  excepting  in  the  color  of 
the  flower;  the  latter  is  indigenous  to  the  East  and  West  Indies,  Persia  and 
Asiatic  Russia,  China,  and  Japan,  where  it  is  also  held  sacred.  Notwithstand- 
ing that  Nelumbiums  are  indigenous  to  the  above  named  tropical  countries,  they 
can  all  be  grown  and  treated  as  hardy  aquatics  in  the  United  States,  although 


5° 


NyMPH.4£AS:    CLASSES   AND    DISTRinVTION. 


thev  cannot  be  thus  grown  in  Enyland,  where  such  severe  winters  are  not 
experienced,  but  on  the  other  hand  that  country  lacks  tlie  heat  of  our  summers, 
so  the  plant  is  not  able  to  perfect  or  mature  its  growth.  Nelumbiums,  like 
hardy  Nymphjeas,  embrace  the  white,  pink,  deep  rose,  and  yellow  colors,  and 
are  among  the  choicest  of  hard}'  aquatics. 

The  tropical  or  tender  Nymphseas  embrace  all  the  deeper  shades  of  rose 
and  crimson,  pale  blue  and  purple,  also  white  and  yellow.  These  are  again 
divided  into  two  classes;  day  and  night  blooming.  These  species  and  varieties 
are  widely  distributed  and  are  indigenous  to  the  tropics,  as  are  the  hardy 
varieties  to  the  temperate  zones.  Nymphsea  zanzibarensis  and  its  forms  azurea 
and  rosea  are,  as  the  name  implies,  indigenous  to  Zanzibar,  in  Africa; 
N.  coerulea  comes  from  Egypt;  N.  gigantea  is  a  native  of  Australia;  N.  versi- 
color, India;  N.  gracilis,  Mexico;  these  are  day  flowering  forms. 

In  the  night  flowering  class  are:  N.  ampla,  (Jamaica) ;  N.  lotus,  (Hungary) ; 
N.  dentata,  (Sierra Leone);  N.  rubra,  (East  Indies).  This  last  is  apparently  the 
only  red  species,  but  be  this  as  it  may,  we  have  many  garden  hybrids  of  many 
shades  of  pink,  carmine,  and  crimson,  which  make  up  a  large  and  complete  list  of 
night  flowering  forms.  Detailed  descriptions  of  these  are  given  in  chapter  XIV. 
These  not  only  afford  different  and  distinct  colors,  but  the  individual  flowers 
are  as  varied  in  shape  and  size  as  they  are  in  color;  some  flowers  are  cup  shaped, 
others  open  horizontally;  some  have  wide  petals,  others  narrow  and  sharp 
pointed;  some  flowers  float  on  the  surface  of  the  water,  others  are  erect  and 
stand  out  above  the  surface  of  the  water  several  inches  on  stout  stalks. 

As  to  fragrance :  some  resemble  Violets,  others  Tea  Roses,  Lily  of  the  Valley, 
etc.,  in  their  odor,  but  the  fragrance  of  N.  odorata,  our  native  species,  may  be 
truly  styled  the  fragrance  of  the  Water  Lily,  it  is  peculiarly  its  own. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

THE   VICTORIA. 

THE  VICTORIA  regia  is  now  well  known  throughout  the  civilized  world, 
although  its  introduction  into  England  and  the  United  States  dates  back 
to  a  period  less  than  fifty  years  ago.  It  is  grown  most  successfully  in  the  open 
air,  and  is  a  very  great  attraction  whenever  seen,  it  is  the  grandest  and  most 
wonderful  of  all  aquatic  plants.  It  is  a  native  of  South  America,  where  it  in- 
habits the  tranquil  bays  of  the  great  streams.  The  earliest  traveller  who  dis- 
covered it  was  Hoenke,  in  iSoi.  Dr.  Lindley  tells  us  that  "  Bompland 
subsequently  met  with  it,  but  M.  D'Orbigny  was  the  first  to  send  home 
specimens  to  Paris  in  182S;  they  were,  however,  neglected  or  overlooked.  In 
a  work  published  some  few  years  after  this  time,  M.  D'Orbigny  mentions  hav- 
ing discovered  the  plant  in  the  river  Parana  in  Guiana.  It  was  known,  he  says, 
to  the  natives  by  the  name  of  Irupe,  in  allusion  to  the  shape  of  the  leaves, 
which  resemble  that  of  the  broad  dishes  used  in  the  country.  The  Spaniards 
call  the  plant  water-maize,  as  they  collect  the  seeds  and  eat  them  roasted." 

It  was  a  great  day,  horticulturally  speaking,  when  on  the  first  day  of 
lanuarv,  1837,  Sir  R.  Schomburgh  came  upon  this  noble  plant  in  British 
Guiana.  A  German  traveller  had  found  it  in  some  tributaries  of  the  Amazon 
in  1832,  but  it  was  when  Sir  R.  Schomburgh,  in  a  letter  to  the  Royal 
Geographical  Society  of  England,  described  the  largest  specimen  he  had  met 
with,  that  public  attention  was  drawn  to  this  magnificent  plant.  Sir  R. 
Schomburgh  rightly  described  it  as  a  vegetable  wonder.  It  was  while  pro- 
ceeding up  the  river  Berbice  that  he  came  upon  it.  "  It  had  gigantic  leaves 
five  to  six  feet  across,  with  a  flat  broad  rim,  lighter  green  above  and  vivid 
crimson  underneath,  floating  upon  the  water,  and  in  character  with  such 
wonderful  foliage  I  saw  luxuriant  flowers,  each  consisting  of  numerous 
petals   passing  in  alternate   tints,   from  pure  white    to  rose  and  pink.     The 


54 


THE    VICTORIA. 


smooth  water  was  covered  with  the  blossoms,  and  which  possess  the  additional 
charm  of  extensively  diffusing  a  sweet  fragrance."  Its  introduction  to  gardens 
is  probably  owing  to  Mr.  Bridges,  who,  in  his  journey  through  Bolivia,  found 
tlie  \'ictoria  regia  in  considerable  abundance,  and  he  brought  home  in  1846 
seeds  in  wet  clay,  well-dried  foliage,  and  flowers  in  spirits. 

The  first  flower  was  produced  in  England  in  November  of  1849,  and 
was  presented  to  Her  Majesty,  Queen  Victoria,  in  whose  honor  the  plant 
was  named.  Its  gigantic  leaves  are  five  to  six  feet  in  diameter,  turned  up 
at  the  edges  five  to  seven  inches  additional.  The  upper  surface  is  of  a  deep 
brilliant  green,  the  iinderside  a  vivid  crimson,  and  furnished  with  strong  veins 
which  are  cellular,  filled  with  air,  and  form  a  regular  and  elegant  network. 
The  underside  of  the  leaf,  as  well  as  the  foot  stalks  of  the  leaves  and  flowers, 
are  covered  with  very  prominent  and  elastic  spines.  The  peculiar  formation 
of  the  under  surface  of  the  leaf  imparts  to  it  great  buoyancy,  rendering  the 
mature  leaf  capable  of  bearing  a  considerable  weight,  not  infrequently  150 
to  200  pounds,  and  a  plant  grown  at  Tower  Grove  Park,  St.  Louis,  in  1896, 
had  a  leaf  that  bore  the  unprecedented  weight  of  250  pounds.  The  illus- 
tration on  page  51  represents  a  Victoria  as  grown  at  Clifton,  N.  J.,  which 
had  at  one  time  twenty  perfect  leaves  in  different  stages  of  development, 
and  which  produced  a  large  number  of  its  magnificent  flowers  from  July  to 
October.  These  flowers  are  not  less  marvelous  than  the  leaves  ;  when 
expanded  a  bloom  measures  from  fifteen  to  eighteen  inches  iia  diameter,  the 
petals  are  very  numerous,  the  color,  when  the  bud  first  opens,  is  white,  passing 
by  successive  shades,  the  second  day,  into  a  rosy  hue,  a  lively  red  to  crimson. 
The  flowers  exhale  a  pleasant  odor,  not  unlike  that  of  a  rich  pineapple,  during 
the  first  evening  on  opening  ;  this  is  distinctly  perceptible  as  soon  as  the  sepals 
show  signs  of  bursting,  and  hours  before  the  flower  is  open.  The  bloom  lasts 
but  two  days,  or  more  correctly  speaking,  two  nights,  diiring  the  hot  weather, 
but  occasionally  at  the  end  of  the  season  the  flowers  endure  three  days. 

For  many  years  there  was  but  one  type  of  Victoria  in  cultivation,  but  in 
1886  a  plant  was  grown  at  Bordentown,  N.  J.,  by  Mr.  Sturtevant,  which  pro- 
duced a  deep  crimson  flower,  and  also  possessed  darker  foliage  than  the 
original ;  the  turned-up  rim  of  the  leaf  was  also  deeper.  It  was  altogether  a 
distinct  variety,  and  is  now  known  as  V.  r.,  var.  Randii.  This  variety  has 
proved  a  most  useful  and  very  desirable  one  for  open  air  cultivation  in  the 
United  States,  and  is  generally  grown  in  preference  to  the  type. 

Later  it  became  a  diflSciilt  matter  to  obtain  seed  of  the  true  V.  regia,  and 


^  £  g  S^ 

«  -s  2  ^  § 

S-  ^  -S  5,  fcq 


2  §■  ?:  i  I 


c  =S  i' 


-  ■=  i '  ~ 


A  NEW  HARDIER   VICTORIA.  57 

being  desirous  of  securing  it  I  determined  to  try  a  new  field  for  supply,  and 
during  the  winter,  i893-'94,  received  from  a  European  house  some  seed  pur- 
porting to  be  of  the  true  Victoria  regia.  Some  of  this  was  sown  about  the 
loth  of  March  under  precisely  the  same  conditions  as  other  \'ictoria  seed, 
and  in  water  at  a  temperature  of  85°  to  90°  Fahrenheit.  After  waiting  a  month 
and  seeing  no  signs  of  germination,  I  gave  up  hopes  of  securing  a  plant  for 
that  season;  but  at  the  same  time  I  examined  another  portion  of  the  same  lot 
of  seed  which  had  not  been  subjected  to  a  higher  temperature  than  that  of  the 
house,  and  was  greatly  surprised  to  find  several  had  germinated.  The  seed- 
lings were  potted  off  singly,  and  treated  as  other  young  Victoria  plants; 
subjected  to  a  temperature  of  85°,  and  re-potted  at  intervals  until  planted  in 
permanent  quarters  on  May  20. 

From  the  first  these  seedlings  exhibited  a  feature  which  marked  them  as 
entirely  distinct  from  the  original  form,  the  leaves  being  light  green  and 
mottled  with  reddish  brown  on  the  face,  purplish  below.  The  rapid 
growth  and  the  early  cupping  of  the  leaf  were  also  very  noticeable.  In  its 
permanent  quarters  the  growth  of  the  plant  was  still  more  remarked,  and  it 
was  soon  evident  it  would  outrun  the  older  plants  of  the  other  variety,  which 
in  fact  it  did,  at  a  very  early  date.  The  first  flower  was  produced  about  July 
15,  and  during  August  the  same  plant  produced  twelve  magnificent  flowers; 
these  on  first  opening  were  pure  white,  and  on  the  second  day  of  a  lively  rose 
color.  At  one  time  as  many  as  nine  flowers  and  buds  were  visible  in  different 
stages  of  development,  while  var.  Randii  produced  but  half  that  number,  and 
seldom  had  more  than  five  presentable  leaves  at  one  time.  The  illustration 
on  page  55  represents  the  first  plant  of  the  variety  as  grown  at  Clifton,  N.  J., 
where  it  made  such  a  record  and  proved  to  be  so  entirely  distinct  from  any- 
thing before  seen  in  the  United  States. 

The  same  characteristics  of  the  plant  have  been  manifest  during  the  past 
two  seasons,  and  it  has  exhibited  a  tendency  to  flower  at  a  very  early  stage. 
Last  year  a  few  plants  that  were  not  wanted  were  allowed  to  remain  in  eight- 
inch  pots,  where  they  produced  flower  buds  and  one  perfect  flower,  and  would 
have  continued  to  flower  had  they  not  been  removed.  Last  season  one  plant 
of  this  variety  produced  some  pods  of  seed,  one  of  which  bursted  earlier  than 
was  expected,  and  not  having  been  bagged  the  seed  was  scattered.  So  far 
as  was  possible  the  seeds  were  picked  up,  but  a  number  escaped  notice  and 
sank.  Early  in  July,  1897,  a  number  of  seedling  Victoria  plants  made  their 
appearance  on  the  surface  of  the  water  (which  is  about  two  feet  deep). 


58  THE    VICTORIA. 

During  the  winter  but  little  water  remained  in  the  pond,  and  at  one  time 
what  was  there  must  have  been  frozen  nearly  solid;  in  spring  the  water 
was  drawn  off,  the  bottom,  consisting  of  pure  stiff  clay,  was  pounded  firm,  and 
a  layer  of  sand  put  upon  it;  the  young  plants  referred  to  above  are  firmly 
rooted  in  the  clay  bottom  and  have  every  appearance  of  being  strong  and 
vigorous. 

The  partiality  for  a  comparatively  low  temperature  is  a  remarkable  feature 
of  this  variety  (which  we  distinguish  provisionally  as  ''Tricker's  variety.") 
In  no  case  has  seed  germinated  when  subjected  to  a  temperature  of  85°  to  95°; 
it  enjoys  a  temperature  similar  to  that  which  is  usually  afforded  tender  Nym- 
phaeas,  and  there  can  be  no  doubt  whatever  but  that  it  will  become  a  universal 
favorite,  as  it  can  be  grown  successfully  under  precisely  the  same  conditions 
as  the  tender  Nymphajas. 

Another  variety  of  Victoria  Regia  is  recognized  in  England  as  Dixon's 
and  is  characterized  by  the  deep  coloring  of  its  flowers. 

Thus  far  we  have  records  of  at  least  three  distinct  forms  beyond  the  type, 
but  so  far  their  exact  standing  has  not  been  determined.  Provisionally  classed 
as  varieties  of  Schomburgh's  original  plant,  it  may  be  that  at  least  one  of 
them  is  worthy  of  specific  distinction,  but  that  can  only  be  determined  on 
a  fuller  and  longer  acquaintance. 

Victoria  regfiais  of  easy  culture;  coming  from  a  tropical  country,  it  requires 
a  summer  temperature  all  the  season,  to  grow  it  successfully.  In  its  native 
habitat,  it  is  a  perennial,  but  with  us,  the  best  method  is  to  treat  it  as  an  annual 
It  forms  no  tuber,  nor  rhizome,  as  do  Nymphseas.  It  produces  seed  freely,  and 
if  the  season  be  sufficiently  long,  or  if  artificial  heat  be  supplied,  the  seed  will 
ripen,  but  it  takes  from  two  to  three  months  to  ripen  the  seed.  After  it  is  ripe, 
it  should  be  kept  in  water  continuously,  and  in  a  temperature  not  below  60°. 

The  seed  should  be  sown  during  February  and  March,  according  to  the 
section  of  the  country,  or  facilities  for  growing  the  plants.  The  water  tempera- 
ture for  starting  the  seed  should  be  85°  to  90° ;  the  seed  sown  in  pots,  or  seed 
pans  and  placed  in  shallow  water,  will  develop  the  seedlings  in  about  twenty 
days,  although  occasionally,  some  will  make  an  appearance  in  ten  days.  These 
should  be  potted  off  singly  into  thumb  pots  as  soon  as  the  second  leaf  appears; 
the  water  temperature  for  potted  plants  need  not  exceed  85°;  the  young  plants 
should  be  repotted  at  intervals,  keeping  them  steadily  growing  until  they  are 
planted  out  in  their  summer  quarters.  Sufficient  room  must  be  given  at  all 
times,  so  that  the  leaves  are  not  crowded  so  as  to  overlap  each  other. 


VIGOROVS    GROWTH    OF    I'AILOXVXIA   IM  I'ERIALIK. 

Tbi-  jiiittiri-  represents  the  strong  M^rinvth  of  a  young-  plant,  or  new  growth 
from  11  yoiiii^-  plant  that  has  been  cut  back  :  in  this  stage  it  forms  a  most  pleasing 
and  striliing  object  in  the  background  or  surroundings  of  tlie  Water  (lardeii.  its 
large  tri-lohed  downy  leaves  having  a  Ijcautiful.  troiiical  apiicarance.  Tlic  gmwtli 
may  be  cut  back  each  year. 


CULTIVATION.  6i 

The  Victoria  requires  a  depth  of  eighteen  inches  to  two  feet  of  water  above 
the  crown  of  the  plant,  and  to  grow  it  in  a  pond  with  Nymphasas,  a  pit  must  be 
made  for  it;  this  must  be  one  foot  below  the  bottom  of  the  pond,  and  should 
be  large  enough  to  hold  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  cubic  feet  of  soil,  such  as 
recommended  for  growing  Nymphaeas. 

In  a  pond  of  sufficient  size,  large  enough  to  grow  a  Victoria  and  Nym- 
phaeas together,  it  is  necessary  for  an  attendant  to  walk  between  the  plants,  and 
the  depth  of  water  must,  therefore,  not  greatly  exceed  two  feet ;  this,  with  boxes 
one  foot  deep  for  the  Nymphasas,  will  give  about  one  foot  of  water  above  the 
crowns  of  those  plants,  but  a  foot  of  water  is  not  sufficient  for  the  Victoria, 
twenty  to  twenty-four  inches  is  necessary;  this  additional  depth  of  water  is 
obtained  by  sinking  the  pit  to  hold  the  soil  one  foot  below  the  bottom  level  of 
the  pond.  This  pit  should  be  12x12  feet  wide  and  2  feet  deep  inside  measure- 
ment. The  walls  may  be  built  of  4-inch  brickwork,  with  an  8-inch  buttress 
in  the  center  of  each  wall;  the  bricks  should  be  laid  in  cement,  and  the  walls — 
which  should  be  one  foot  above  the  level  of  the  bottom  of  the  pond — should  be 
faced  with  Portland  cement  on  both  sides;  the  bottom  may  be  laid  in  concrete 
or  puddled  with  good  clay;  it  must  be  water-tight  throughout.  As  this  is 
intended  for  early  planting— say  first  week  in  May — the  pond,  and  especially 
the  pits,  must  be  heated  and  a  temporary  cover  provided,  the  latter  may  be 
made  of  ordinary  lumber,  similar  to  a  hotbed,  made  in  sections  and  fastened 
together  with  hooks — the  width  of  the  pit  requires  two  6-foot  sashes  to  cover 
it.  The  frame  may  be  made  one  continuous  pitch,  the  sashes  overlapping  each 
other,  but  a  better  way  is  to  make  a  frame,  the  sashes  pitching  in  opposite 
directions  making  an  equal  span  roof.  This  will  be  found  easy  to  handle  for 
ventilation  and  inspection  of  plants. 

Where  two  or  more  Victorias  are  to  be  grown  in  one  pond,  it  will  be  better 
to  grow  them  on  in  pits  covered  with  frame  and  sash  as  above  described, 
and  these  heated  separately  until  about  the  first  of  June,  or  until  the  plants 
become  too  crowded  and  need  more  space.  At  this  date  the  tender  Nymphaeas 
should  be  planted;  these  should  be  strong  plants  that  will  give  immediate 
effect.  The  Victoria  plants  must  receive  first  consideration,  and  additional 
firing  may  be  necessary  during  cool  spells  to  maintain  the  desired  temperature. 
This  temperature  will  also  be  highly  beneficial  for  the  Nymphaeas. 

The  system  of  heating  the  water  must  be  decided  upon  before  the  pits  are 
built.  If  in  conjunction  with  a  healing  plant  already  on  the  ground  it  may  be 
practical  and  economical  to  utilize  the  same,  whether  steam  or  hot  water,  but 


62  THE     VICTORIA    POND. 

it  very  often  happens  that  this  cannot  be  done,  and  an  independent  system  has 
to  be  adopted.  The  best  for  the  purpose  is  hot  water.  The  site  for  the  boiler 
house  must  be  near-by,  practically  out  of  sight,  hidden  by  rockery  or  shrubbery, 
as  nothing  would  be  more  objectionable  than  an  unsightly  chimney  or  building 
in  the  landscape. 

Steam  may  be  used  for  heating,  but  it  is  not  to  be  recommended  unless 
used  for  other  purposes.  Exhaust  steam  from  an  engine  or  pump  must  not  be 
emptied  into  the  pond,  as  the  oil  contained  in  the  same  would  be  very 
objectionable.  The  best  method  is  to  use  live  steam  direct  from  the  boiler; 
one  one  inch  pipe  is  ample  for  each  pit.  This  should  enter  at  the  top  of  the  pit 
at  one  end,  and  cross  diagonally  on  the  bottom,  rising  at  the  opposite  end,  and 
terminating  just  below  the  top  of  the  brickwork  with  a  pit-cock.  A  valve  will 
be  necessary  to  regulate  the  supply,  also  to  blow  out  the  exhaust  which  may 
empty  into  the  pit.  Cover  the  pipe  with  drain  tiles  or  insert  in  a  soil  pipe  or 
cover  with  boards,  the  object  being  to  keep  the  soil  clear  of  the  pipe,  and  allow  the 
heated  water  to  rise.  Cover  the  exposed  main  pipe  with  asbestos,  felt,  or  non- 
conducting material.     This  system  of  heating  has  worked  very  satisfactorily. 

In  the  case  of  hot  water  heating,  flow  and  return  pipes  are  necessary,  and 
two-inch  pipes  preferable. 

The  pits  are  to  be  heated  separately  and  independently  of  the  pond  proper, 
until  the  Nyniphseas  are  planted  out  about  the  first  of  June,  earlier  in  Southern 
States.  A  i-inch  pipe  may  circuit  the  pit,  but  if  a  2-inch  pipe  is  placed 
the  same  as  advised  for  steam  heating  it  will  be  found  very  beneficial.  In  this 
case  the  return  pipe  must  necessarily  be  under  the  bottom  of  the  pond  proper; 
great  care  must  be  exercised  that  the  wall  where  the  pipe  is  carried  through 
is  perfectly  water  tight  as  serious  trouble  will  result  from  a  leaky  tank. 

Towards  the  middle  or  latter  part  of  June  the  plants  will  have  attained 
considerable  proportions;  the  frame  will  be  full  of  leaves,  and  every  means 
should  lie  used  to  "  harden  off "  the  plant  previous  to  full  exposure,  which  it  is  not 
prudent  to  allow  before  the  latter  part  of  June.  Care  must  be  exercised  in 
this  performance,  and  the  weather  must  be  settled  warm;  a  chill  and  a  check 
to  growth  at  this  time  would  annul  all  the  care  and  attention  previously 
bestowed,  and  the  plants  would  probably  be  ruined.  With  the  water  at  a 
temperature  of  80°,  or  even  75°  during  a  cold  spell,  the  Victoria  will  pull 
through,  and  the  tropical  Nymphaeas  will  doubly  repay  for  the  care  and  atten- 
tion bestowed  on  them ;  the  Nymphaeas,  indeed,  will  attain  such  perfection 
that  they  will  surpass  anything  seen  under  ordinary  conditions. 


PLANTINC,    OUT.  63 

In  the  neighborhood  of  Philadelphia  and  New  York,  Victoria  plants  may 
be  planted  out  from  the  first  to  the  middle  of  May ;  but  from  tliis  date  until  warm 
settled  weather  arrives,  the  plants  will  need  protection  and  artificial  heat,  for 
a  water  temperature  of  80°  to  85°  must  be  maintained. 

It  must  not  be  inferred  that  the  Victoria  cannot  be  grown  at  all  without 
artificial  heat.  There  are  instances  of  plants  doing  well  and  even  producing 
flowers,  though  they  are  exceptional;  but  there  are  exceptional  localities.  As 
a  general  rule,  the  season  is  too  short,  as  it  is  not  safe  to  plant  without  artifi- 
cial heat  until  the  end  of  June,  and  the  summer  will  be  declining  by  the  time 
the  plant  has  attained  fair  proportions;  and  there  is  then  the  possibility  of  a 
cold  spell,  and  the  plant  may  not  make  any  decent  showing.  But  if  grown  with 
artificial  heat,  a  plant  will  have  attained  good  proportions,  in  fact,  equal  to  the 
whole  season's  growth  of  a  plant  without  artificial  heat,  by  the  time  it  is  safe 
to  plant  out. 

Victoria  plants  are  very  succulent,  and  will  not  bear  the  confinement  in  a 
packing  case  in  the  same  manner  that  a  Palm  will,  yet  they  will  travel  long 
distances,  and  withstand  a  journey  of  two  or  three  days  without  suft'ering,  but 
onh'  the  strongest  plants  should  be  subjected  to  a  long  journey,  small  plants 
would  succumb,  but  can  be  safely  shipped  on  a  two  days'  journey. 

When  plants  are  received  from  a  distance,  and  have  been  subjected  to  a 
comparatively  low  temperature  during  the  journey,  they  should  not  be  at  once 
submerged  in  water  at  the  temperature  before  recommended  for  growing 
Victorias,  but  proceed  as  follows :  On  opening  the  case,  place  a  thermometer 
inside  the  packing  for  a  few  seconds,  to  ascertain  the  existing  temperature, 
then  unpack  and  place  the  plant  in  water  but  a  few  degrees  higher,  also  shade 
the  plant  during  the  day,  gradually  increasing  the  temperature  as  the  plant 
recovers  its  normal  condition.  The  plant  should  be  shipped  in  the  pot  in 
which  it  has  grown,  and  should  remain  undisturbed  until  it  shows  signs 
of  growth,  which  it  should  do  in  two  or  three  days;  after  this  the  plant  may  be 
repotted  or  planted  in  permanent  quarters. 

When  a  plant  has  been  shipped  but  a  short  distance,  it  may  at  once  be 
placed  in  permanent  quarters,  or  submerged  as  received,  and  planted  out  a 
little  later;  the  condition  of  the  plant  and  the  surroundings  must  direct  the 
operation.  After  planting,  keep  both  water  and  atmosphere  at  a  temperature 
of  80°  to  85°,  giving  air  on  all  occasions  when  the  weather  permits.  Keep  a 
thermometer  on  hand,  in  the  water  is  preferable,  so  as  to  know  what  the 
temperature  is  at  sight. 


64  THE    VICTORIA. 

Little  or  no  labor  is  attached  to  the  culture  from  now.  Occasionally 
some  water  should  be  added  to  replace  loss  by  evaporation,  and  for  this  it  is 
well  to  have  a  hose  attachment  at  hand;  such  will  also  be  useful  for  flushing 
the  pit  and  washing  oiT  any  scum  that  may  arise  from  fermentation  or  other 
cause.  Toward  the  end  of  Jime  the  plant  will  be  getting  somewhat  crowded, 
and  will  need  more  room.  As  it  reaches  this  condition  more  air  should 
be  given,  and  the  plant  exposed  to  the  full  sunshine,  and  air  should  be  left  on 
during  the  night,  so  that  the  plant  will  not  suffer  when  the  frame  and  sash 
are  finally  taken  off.  If  this  be  not  carefully  attended  to,  the  plant  is  likely  to 
suffer;  the  leaves  will  scald  or  scorch  with  the  full  sunshine,  which  will  both 
check  the  growth  and  disfigure  the  plant.  Early  in  July  the  first  flower  should 
be  produced  and  if  the  weather  permit,  other  conditions  being  satisfactory, 
the  plant  will  bloom  continuously  for  the  season,  throwing  up  a  flower 
every  third  or  fourth  day,  and  occasionally  in  very  warm  weather  every 
second  day. 

If  seed  be  desired,  leave  one  or  two  capsules  to  ripen,  and  cut  off  all  other 
dead  flowers  as  soon  as  withered  ;  the  seed  takes  from  eight  to  ten  weeks  to 
ripen,  sometimes  longer,  much  depending  on  the  existing  temperature  and 
conditions  of  the  weather. 


CHAPTER  X. 

THE  AQUATIC  HOUSE. 

AQUATICS  of  all  kinds,  even  the  most  tender,  including  the  \'ictoria  regia, 
^  can  be  grown  in  the  open  air  during  the  summer,  but  it  is  necessary  to 
have  strong  plants,  more  especially  of  the  tender  ones,  when  the  season  arrives 
for  planting  out.  The  advantage  of  having  suitable  quarters  in  which  to 
propagate  and  grow  the  plants,  is  therefore  at  once  apparent. 

An  equal  span  roof  house,  twenty  to  twenty-five  feet  wide  is  best  adapted 
for  the  purpose  of  an  aquatic  house,  as  it  gives  all  light  possible.  In  place  of 
the  usual  table  have  in  the  center  of  the  house  a  tank,  built  of  masonry,  con- 
crete or  brickwork,  the  latter  preferred.  The  length  of  the  tank  or  house 
must  be  determined  upon  in  each  individual  case,  but  whatever  it  is,  the  tank 
should  have  a  division  wall  across  the  center,  thus  making  two  tanks,  as,  with  a 
large  collection,  it  is  always  best  to  have  one  tank  that  can  be  heated  ten  or 
more  degrees  above  the  other,  and  in  winter  one  tank  can  be  used  for  stock,  the 
other  for  flowering  plants,  or  if  not  wanted  for  Water  Lilies,  the  tank  can  have 
a  temporary  covering  and  be  used  for  any  purpose.  Build  an  eight-inch  brick 
wall,  eighteen  to  twenty-two  inches  high,  the  last  two  courses  tapering,  and 
finishing  off  with  a  four-inch  single  course.  The  walls  being  above  the  ground 
level,  will  require  to  be  laid  in  cement  and  faced  on  both  sides  with  Portland 
cement,  troweled  off.  The  bottom  miist  receive  a  good  flooring  of  concrete,  or 
a  layer  of  bricks  grouted  with  cement,  and  afterward  a  coating  of  Portland 
cement.  Such  a  tank  will  be  found  very  accommodating,  both  for  small  and 
large  plants. 

A  temporary  bench  can  be  easily  arranged  with  a  few  inverted  flower  pots 
and  slates;  this  is  most  convenient  if  placed  near  the  tank  wall  and  the  space 
in  the  center  utilized  for  large  plants  in  pots  or  boxes. 

Provision  should  be  made  for  heating  the  tank;  one  two-inch  pipe  through 
the  center  will  be  sufficient,  as  the  greenhouse  will  be  heated,  and  should  be 


66  THE  AQUATIC   HOUSE. 

piped  to  maintain  a  minimum  temperature  of  70°.  Steam  or  hot  water,  which 
ever  is  most  convenient,  will  answer.  If  steam  be  used,  insert  a  small  steam 
pipe — one-half  or  three-quarter  inch — inside  the  two-inch  pipe,  which  should 
be  perfectly  water-tight,  thus  forming  a  hot-air  space  the  entire  length  of  the 
tank  and  equalizing  the  temperature.  If  hot  water  be  used,  one  two-inch  pipe 
is  sufficient,  entering  at  one  end  and  connecting  with  a  return  at  the  other.  A 
good  plan  is  to  build  a  short  piece  of  pipe  into  the  wall,  through  which  to  pass 
the  pipe,  afterward  corking  tight;  this  will  prevent  breaking  the  wall  to  make 
connections  when  the  piping  is  done.  In  the  case  of  steam  heating,  no  break 
in  the  wall  is  necessary,  as  the  main  pipe  can  be  overhead  and  drop  into  the 
tank  at  one  end,  and  the  exhaust  can  empty  into  the  tank,  or  it  may  be  con- 
nected with  an  exhaust  pipe  and  be  conveyed  through  the  wall  as  recommended 
for  hot  water  return  pipe. 

An  overflow  and  outlet  pipe  should  also  be  provided.  Any  size,  from  one 
to  two  inches  will  answer  the  purpose;  this  should  be  built  into  the  masonry  at 
the  bottom  and  connected  with  a  drain ;  the  inlet  should  be  a  few  inches  fi'om  the 
wall,  with  an  L  piece  fitting  level  with,  or  slightly  below  the  floor  of  the  tank, 
the  upright  piece  of  pipe  should  screw  easily  into  the  fitting,  and  should  reach 
to  within  half  an  inch  of  the  top  of  the  tank. 

Where  only  a  moderate  number  of  plants  is  needed,  a  tank  on  the  side 
benches  may  be  sufficient  for  the  purpose,  yet  two  would  be  better  than  one. 
They  may  be  twelve  feet  long,  more  or  less,  as  the  case  demands;  one  should 
be  eight  inches  deep,  the  other  twelve.  These  should  be  made  of  white  pine 
two  inches  thick  and  lined  with  16  ounce  copper,  brazed.  To  afford  means  for 
heating,  the  wooden  bottom  may  be  omitted,  save  at  the  ends  and  one  or  two 
cross-tie  pieces  between,  and  the  tank  placed  directly  over  the  pipes,  which 
should  be  boxed  in  with  lumber,  to  confine  the  heat,  and  light  T  iron  bars 
should  be  used  across  the  bearers  about  nine  inches  apart,  making  a  substan- 
tial rest  for  the  bottom  of  the  tank.  Should  it  be  required,  arrangements  can 
be  made  to  have  a  part  of  either  tank  heated  several  degrees  higher  than  the  rest 
by  having  a  one-inch  division  board  in  the  tank,  fitting  it  moderately  tightly, 
and  making  a  drop  door  in  the  front.  An  oil  lamp  or  stove  can  be  used  for 
additional  heat,  and  for  use  during  the  time  when  the  pipe  heat  must  be  shut 
down  in  the  day  when  the  sun  is  shining,  and  ventilation  is  necessary. 

If  no  bottom  heat  be  used,  the  tank  will  need  a  two-inch  bottom  which 
maybe  made  of  hemlock;  the  tank  being  lined  with  the  copper  as  before 
advised.     Such  a  tank  being  portable  can  be  used  in   any  convenient  place 


ill 


£  -Jo 

=  •5  0, 


on -IRAXDRA    FENESTRALIS. 


69 

when 


during  winter  and  spring,  and  may  be  placed  out  of  doors  in  siiniiner, 
not  wanted  inside. 

A  tank  provided  with  bottom  heat  is  a  useful  adjunct  to  any  place,  and 
when  not  needed  in  winter  for  aquatics,  it  may  be  used  for  propagating,  or  for 
plunging  plants  that  need  bottom  heat,  using  such  a  medium  as  cocoanut  fibre 
refuse,  which  indeed  is  the  best  for  such  a  purpose.  If  a  tank  of  more  than 
twelve  inches  depth  be  desired,  one  built  of  masonrj^  is  to  be  preferred ;  this 
not  necessarily  occupying  all  the  central  space,  but  one  end  of  the  centre 
table,  and  that  where  it  will  derive  the  full  benefit  of  light  and  sunshine. 

Do  not  put  plants  into  new  tanks  immediately  after  they  are  finished  and 
filled  with  water;  but  allow  the  water  to  stand  for  three  or  four  days,  then 
allow  more  water  to  run  in,  and  with  the  hose  wash  off  any  scum,  or  anything 
that  has  gathered  on  the  surface.  Do  not  change  the  water  if  it  be  thick  or 
cloudy,  it  will  settle  in  a  short  time. 


OUVIRANDRA    FENESTRALIS    (LACE    OR    LETTUCE    LEAF    PLANT). 

Among  all  the  submerged  water  plants  there  is  not  anything  that  rivals 
this  unique  plant.      It  is  indigenous  to  sluggish  streams  in  Madagascar.     Its 
introduction  dates  back  to  the  year  1855;    although  known  to  cultivation  for 
upwards    of    forty 
years,  it  is  yet  a  rare 
plant,  and  when  seen 
in  good  condition  it  is 
one  of  the  most  beau- 
tiful and  attractive  of 
aquatic  plants.      The 
leaves  may  be  termed 
skeletonized;  they  are 

a  mere  net-work  resembling  lace,  and  on  a  well-grown  plant  measure  from 
twelve  to  eighteen  inches  in  length,  and  four  to  six  inches  in  width,  oblong, 
with  an  obtuse  apex,  and  spreading  out  nearly  horizontally  beneath  the 
surface  of  the  water;  they  are  bright  green  in  color  in  the  early  stage, 
changing  to  deep  green  when  fully  grown,  with  a  greenish  yellow  midrib ;  the 
flowers  are  white,  the  stem  being  split  at  the  top  into  two  spikes. 


DIAL    LEAK   OF   Ol'VIRANnRA     FENEB 


7o  OUVIRANDRA  FENESTRALIS. 

The  plant  delights  in  a  rich  soil  similar  to  Nymphseas,  a  warm  house, 
the  water  temperature  from  65°  to  75°,  partial  shade,  and  a  wooden  vessel  in 
preference  to  an)'thing  else.  vSome  of  the  finest  specimens  seen  have  been 
grown  in  tubs — half  kerosene  barrels.       It  is  unnecessary  to  change  the  water, 


as  when  the  plants  are  in  a  healthy  condition  they  oxygenate  the  water  and 
keep  it  clear,  but  confervse  will  occasionally  appear.  The  best  means  to  clean 
this  off  and  add  to  the  health  of  the  plant  is  to  introduce  a  few  tadpoles  or 
water  snails. 


AX  ACJUATIC  HARDEN  AND  FISHERY  COMBINED. 

The  three  panel.,  sfto«-  the  sanw  spot  at  different  seasons  of  the  year.  The  upper  picture 
n-presents  the  pond  in  fall  and  early  spring  protected  with  frame  and  sasl.es.  The  eeutral 
pcture  winter  with  its  canopy  of  snow.  The  lower  .section  .shows  the  pond  ,n  summer  wM 
anuatic  plants ;  Nrmpha-as,  Cat  Tails,  Rushes,  and  Cyperu.s.  and  the  juvenile  attendant  feeding 
the  Ssh.     This  sv.stem  of  covering  the  aquatic  tanl;  or  pond  is  to  be  commended. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

THE  AMATEUR'S  WATER  GARDEN. 

NO  BRANCH  of  horticulture  is  calculated  to  give  more  healthful  recreation 
to  both  young  and  middle-aged  persons  than  a  water  garden,  even  if 
only  on  a  small  scale.  The  additional  attraction,  and  one  of  the  essential 
occupants  of  the  pond,  is  fish  ;  with  these  we  have  an  ideal  source  of  pleasure 
and  recreation  which  may  be  enjoyed  by  all  lovers  of  nature,  and  especially 
the  children.  Few  persons,  young  or  old,  but  have  pets  or  some  other  hobby, 
and  when  children  can  indulge  in  the  care  of  fish  it  is  a  delightful  aid  toward 
their  recreation,  instruction,  and  profit.  Fish,  in  a  very  short  time,  become  as 
much  a  pet  with  the  young  as  does  a  kitten,  and  how  pleasurable  to  a  child  to 
have  them  eat  from  its  hand,  or  congregate  when  the  water  is  disturbed. 

Fish  of  any  kind  are  desirable  in  the  pond,  and  should  certainly  be 
provided.  Gold  fish  are  always  very  attractive  in  small  ponds,  fountain  basins, 
and  tubs,  where  plants  are  growing,  as  are  also  Japanese  fan-tails,  and  others 
in  variety. 

The  presence  of  frogs,  tadpoles,  and  water  snails  is  very  essential,  but 
the  fish  are  liable  to  eat  both  the  larvae  of  and  the  young  snails  themselves; 
sunfish  are  especially  destructive  and  should  not  be  put  in  the  same  water 
as  the  snails,  unless  for  the  express  purpose  of  eradicating  them. 

The  illustration  shows  a  small  water  garden  built  for  the  culture  of  fish  as 
well  as  aquatic  plants ;  this  is  located  in  one  of  our  Western  States,  and  subject 
to  severe  weather  in  winter,  the  thermometer  occasionally  falling  to  20° 
below  zero.  The  size  of  this  pond  is  4  ft.  x  16  ft.  and  3  ft.  deep,  divided  into  3 
sections,  the  centre  one  being  3  ft.  deeper  for  the  fish  in  winter.  The  size  and 
depth  is  not  binding,  but  can  be  made  to  suit  individual  requirements.  I  have, 
in  another  place,  described  one  51/2  ft.  x  12  ft.,  and  20  inches  deep.  The  plants 
can  be  grown  in  tubs  or  boxes,  or  in  soil  deposited  in  the  bottom  of  the  pond. 


74 


THE  AMATEUR'S   WATER    GARDEN. 


A  few  Water  Lilies,  Grasses,  and  Cat-tails,  with  such  plants  as  Myriophyllum, 
Cabomba,  etc.,  will  furnish  the  pond.  A  few  Water  Hyacinths  are  essential  in 
the  pond,  as  the  fish  will  deposit  their  eggs  on  the  roots  of  these  plants,  which 
are  easily  lifted  out  of  the  water  and  placed  in  jars  or  other  vessels  to  hatch. 

The  illustration  represents  the  pond  at  different  seasons  of  the  year.  The 
uppermost  picture  shows  the  mode  of  protection  in  early  fall  and  spring,  a 
removable  frame  and  sash  over  the  pond  protecting  the  plants  from  early  frosts 
and  prolonging  the  season.  On  the  approach  of  winter  weather,  leaves,  salt 
hay,  straw,  or  similar  material  are  packed  around  the  frame,  and  the  sash  is  to 
be  covered  with  straw  or  straw  mats,  while  a  shutter  or  waterproof  canvas  is 
very  desirable  to  keep  the  materials  dry.  Then  let  Dame  Nature  finish  the 
work  as  shown  in  the  central  picture.  On  bright  sunny  days,  and  during  a 
warm  spell,  the  frame  may  be  partly  or  wholly  uncovered  to  allow  the  sun  to 
warm  the  atmosphere  inside  and  the  water,  and,  as  the  days  lengthen,  the 
covering  on  the  sashes  may  be  dispensed  with,  and  air  admitted  on  bright  days. 
The  plants  will  start  into  growth  and  have  leaves  and  flower  buds  long  before 
our  native  varieties  make  their  appearance  on  the  surface  of  the  water,  and 
early  in  summer  the  water  garden  will  take  on  an  appearance  as  represented 
in  the  lower  panel. 


5  t:   =  5 


CHAPTER  XII. 

INSECTS,   RATS,   DISEASES,   AND  ENEMIES. 

FEW,  IF  ANY  plants  are  absolutely  free  from  insect  pests,  and  Water  Lilies 
and  other  aquatics  are  no  exceptions,  though  they  are  comparatively  free. 
Aphides  (green  and  black)  will  put  in  an  appearance,  and  will  generally  be 
observed  first  on  the  young  leaves  of  Nelumbiums,  especially  if  other  plants  in 
the  vicinity  are  affected.  The  syringe  or  hose  should  be  brought  to  bear  on 
them  when  quantities  will  be  washed  away  if  not  killed;  the  plants  may  also  be 
dusted  with  tobacco  dust,  but  this  makes  them  very  unsightly,  and  should 
only  be  used  when  other  means  fail.  Green  fly  and  black  fly  have  their  natural 
enemies,  which  after  all  are  the  best  remedies;  among  these  are  the  lady-birds, 
of  which  there  are  many  species,  all  are  carnivorous,  with  almost  insatiable 
appetites,  and  very  destructive  to  aphides.  It  is  not  so  much  the  pretty  little 
beetles  that  render  assistance  in  the  extermination  of  the  aphis  as  it  is  the  un- 
sightly dusky  brown  larvae;  these  fellows  live  to  eat,  and  eat  voraciously. 
They  are  met  with  on  trees,  shrubs,  and  plants  in  every  section,  and  many 
persons  not  familiar  with  them  and  their  mission,  and  believing  that  a  bug  is 
a  bug,  and  that  all  bugs  deserve  the  same  fate,  without  any  hesitation  crush 
the  life  out  of  one  of  the  greatest  benefactors  to  the  gardener. 

Another  enemy  to  aphides  is  the  lace-winged  or  golden-eyed  fly;  these 
are  equally  as  destructive  as  the  lady-birds,  and  in  this  case,  also,  it  is  the 
larvae  that  do  the  work.  The  perfect  insect  has  four  delicate,  transparent, 
whitish  wings,  netted  like  fine  lace,  bright  golden  eyes,  and  a  beautiful  green 
body.     While  not  so  common  as  the  lady-birds,  they  are  frequently  to  be  met. 

Other  beneficial  insects  are  the  Syrphus  flies,  the  larva  of  which  are  quite 
blind,  but  the  eggs  are  deposited  in  the  midst  of  colonies  of  plant  lice,  where, 
on  hatching,  the  young  grope  about  and  obtain  an  abundance  of  food  without 
much  trouble.  All  horticulturists  should  be  familiar  with  these  insects,  and 
avoid  using  insecticides  anywhere  within  reach  of  them. 


78  INSECTS,  RATS,  DISEASES,  AND  ENEMIES. 

Another  destructive  insect  that  attacks  the  Lotus  is  Botis  neUimbiis 
this  makes  its  appearance  early  in  the  season,  and  while  the  first  leaves  are 
just  floating  on  the  water,  it  is  somewhat  of  a  leaf-roller,  as  it  eats  the  surface 
of  the  leaf  near  the  edge,  rolls  the  edge  over,  and  envelopes  itself  in  a 
slight  web;  but  later,  as  the  insect  matures,  it  finds  its  way  into  the  centre  of 
the  leaf  and  enters  the  stalk,  where  it  remains  during  the  pupa  state.  The 
only  known  remedy  is  hand  picking.  Fortunately,  this  pest  is  not  common, 
and  though  known  for  several  years  I  did  not  see  it  until  the  season  of  1896. 
There  is  also  another  very  similar  insect  which  made  its  appearance  on  the 
Nymphaeas,  but  in  this  case  the  larva  cuts  a  piece  off  the  edge  of  the  leaf,  and 
uses  it  for  a  covering  in  the  early  stage;  later,  as  it  matures,  it  uses  two 
pieces,  between  which  the  insect  is  sandwiched.  As  it  is  thus  hidden  and 
the  covering  or  shield  is  the  same  as  the  leaf,  nothing  is  noticeable  but 
the  perforations  of  the  leaves;  the  best  remedy  is  hand  picking,  and  by  keep- 
ing a  constant  watch,  the  colony  of  young  ones  may  be  destroyed  by  taking 
off  the  entire  leaf  as  soon  as  possible  after  the  insects  appear. 

The  Nelumbiums  have  still  another  enemy  and  probably  the  worst  to 
combat,  and  that  is  the  muskrat.  Wherever  these  are  known  to  exist  every 
means  must  be  employed  to  eradicate  them,  they  not  only  do  much  damage  to 
the  banks  of  the  pond,  but  they  eat  the  tubers  of  the  Nelumbiums  in  winter  or 
when  in  a  dormant  condition,  but  they  do  not  molest  the  growing  plants.  They 
are  also  very  partial  to  some  Nymphseas,  especially  N.chromatella.  Nelumbiums 
growing  in  stiff,  clayey  soil  are  better  protected  against  muskrats  than  are 
others  growing  in  soft  soil  in  which  it  is  easy  for  the  rats  to  burrow.  Trapping 
is  probably  the  best  means  to  get  rid  of  them,  but  they  are  very  wary  and 
scent  danger;  often  a  trap  set  where  one  was  known  to  have  recently  passed  acts 
as  a  danger  signal  and  wards  off  others.  If  the  muskrats  are  known  to  be  in  the 
vicinity,  hunt  them  down,  never  allowing  them  to  make  a  settlement  or  colony. 

Mice  are  destructive  to  both  seed  and  tubers  of  tender  Nymphasas;  these 
can  always  be  kept  at  bay,  but  ceaseless  vigilance  is  necessary,  and  if  you  have 
valuable  tubers,  watch  them. 

Turtles  should  never  be  allowed  in  the  ponds,  at  least  in  artificial  ones,  in 
some  natural  ones  their  presence  cannot  be  avoided.  They  destroy  young- 
growth  of  both  leaves  and  flowers,  and  are  particularly  destructive  to  the  seed 
crop,  even  if  the  seed  pods  are  tied  in  muslin  bags. 

Algae  and  confervse  of  various  forms  are  occasionally  troublesome,  and 
though  not  a  "disease  "  are  injurious,  being  of  a  low  order  of  plant  Hfe,  some. 


5Sl 


INSECTS,   RATS.  DISEASES.  AXD  EXEMIES.  8i 

parasitical,  choke  the  life  out  of  the  plants  on  which  they  prey.  Some  forms 
are  like  strong,  green  threads,  and  in  some  instances,  when  allowed  to  go  on 
unchecked,  it  is  impossible  to  separate  or  disentangle  the  plants  or  leaves  with- 
out breaking  some;  but  in  most  cases  such  a  condition  is  only  found  where  few 
or  no  fish  are  in  evidence  and  plants  are  in  an  undisturbed  condition.  Confervae 
will  form  on  some  plants  in  stagnant  water,  especially  on  seedlings  that  have 
not  arrived  at  a  stage  when  floating  leaves  are  attainable,  and  when  fish  cannot 


be  allowed  in  the  water.  In  such  instances  the  best  remedy  is  Bordeaux  mix- 
ture, one-third  less  than  the  usual  strength  as  applied  to  other  plants;  use 
with  hand  syringe,  merely  wetting  the  plants  on  the  surface  of  the  water;  but 
this  must  not  be  used  for  confervae  on  Ouvirandra  fenestralis,  or  it  will  kill  the 
plant  as  well ;  this  will  also  check  a  certain  damping  off  or  rot  on  small  seedlings. 
But  this  latter  trouble  is  often  the  case  of  over-heating,  and  a  lower  tempera- 
ture will  prove  beneficial. 


82  INSECTS.  RATS.  DISEASES.  AXD  ENEMIES. 

A  sporatic  trouble  or  blight  has  recently  made  its  appearance  to  annoy 
aquaticulturists,  it  belongs  to  the  order  certosporae  and  is  similar  to  the  celery 
blight.  A  few  light-colored  spots  appear  on  the  oldest  leaves,  which  spread 
rapidly,  and  the  leaves  soon  after  commence  to  rot  where  the  spots  appeared. 
As  the  leaves  are  thus  destroyed  the  plant  is  considerably  weakened  and  noth- 
ing like  maturity  can  be  obtained;  the  plant  gets  weaker  and  smaller,  and 
would  ultimately  die.  Bordeaux  mixture  is  the  best  remedy;  the  new  mixture, 
Potash  Bordeaux,  is  preferable  as  it  leaves  no  chalky  or  white-washed  appear- 
ance. Apply  with  a  fine  spray  or  dip  the  leaves  where  plants  are  in  a  portable 
state.  After  treatment  the  leaves  will,  for  a  time,  have  the  appearance  of 
having  been  whitewashed,  but  as  new  leaves  quickly  replace  the  others  in  a 
healthy  or  vigorous  plant,  those  that  were  affected  can  be  taken  off  in  the 
course  of  a  few  days,  but  if  more  spots  appear  another  application  of  the 
fungicide  will  be  necessary. 

There  are  several  kinds  of  water  snails,  all  more  or  less  beneficial  to  the 
cultivator,  but  one  species,  with  a  long  black  colored  shell,  is  particularly  fond 
of  the  green  leaves  of  Hydrocharis  and  Aponogeton,  as  well  as  of  the  decayed 
leaves  of  other  plants,  confervfe,  etc.  Should  the  plants  be  found  to  be  eaten 
in  this  way,  it  is  best  to  remove  these  plants  to  another  tub  or  compartment  by 
themselves,  and  introduce  a  sunfish  or  two,  which  will  clear  off  the  snails  and 
their  larvae  in  a  remarkablj'  short  time.  Sunfish  will  not  only  devour  such  snails 
as  are  injurious,  but  will  take  all  kinds,  and  as  all  snails  are  beneficial  (even  those 
that  eat  Hydrocharis,  etc.,  will  not  eat  the  leaves  of  the  Ouvirandra),  care 
must  be  taken  in  this  respect,  and  sunfish  must  be  kept  in  their  proper 
place.  It  is  questionable  whether  they  should  be  kept  at  all  in  an  artificial 
pond,  tank,  or  tub.  Water  snails  have  other  enemies  besides  sunfish;  the  larvae 
of  the  great  dragon-fly  will  attack  and  destroy  them,  but  as  their  season  is 
limited  in  duration,  and  the  mature  insect  is  more  or  less  beneficial,  and  they 
are  difficult  to  exterminate,  we  must  patiently  bear  this  apparent  injury,  know- 
ing they  cannot  do  much,  if  any,  injury  indoors. 

Frogs  and  tadpoles  are  of  great  service  and  should  be  encouraged  in  and 
around  the  ponds;  these,  too,  have  their  enemies,  the  domestic  cat  should 
never  be  allowed  near  the  tanks,  as  pussy  will  surely  find  out  the  frogs  as  well 
as  the  fishes,  of  which  she  is  particularly  fond. 

In  the  natural  ponds,  water  snakes  will  put  in  an  appearance,  these  reptiles 
will  devour  both  fish  and  frogs,  and,  until  we  are  visited  with  a  plague  of  the 
latter,  destroy  all  snakes  possible. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

HEATING  PLANT  FOR  A  VICTORIA  OR  TROPICAL  WATER  LILY  POND. 

THERE  IS  PROBABLY  some  one  feature  in  any  heated  Lily  pond 
which  is  peculiar  to  itself — circumstances  are  as  varied  as  locations  are 
numerous — yet,  withal,  the  general  underlying  principles  are  the  same.  The 
intelligent  constructor  will  be  able  to  learn  some  useful  hints  from  a  detailed 
description  of  one  successful  heating  system,  and  therefore  reference  is  now 
made  to  one  only — that  of  Prospect  Park,  Brooklyn,  N.  Y.,  where  an 
extensive  water  garden  is  to  be  .seen.  A  space  has  been  laid  out  in  the  park 
for  three  ponds,  which  are  walled  up  with  concrete  and  provided  with  a  water 
supply  and  an  outlet.  One  pond  is  used  for  the  hardy  native  Water  Lilies, 
another  pond  is  exclusively  used  for  the  Egyptian  Lotus,  while  the  third 
pond,  which  is  of  absorbing  interest  to  the  multitudes  who  visit  the  park,  is 
used  for  tropical  species,  the  principal  plant  being  Victoria  regia.  The  water 
in  this  is  heated,  and  the  construction  of  the  pond  and  its  system  of  piping  are 
set  forth  in  the  accompanying  figures. 

The  water  in  the  pond  is  heated  by  contact  with  the  piping  through  which 
hot  water  is  circulated  from  the  boiler.  The  pond  is  oval  in  form,  fifty-six  feet 
long,  thirty-eight  feet  in  width,  and  about  four  feet  deep.  From  the  sectional 
view  it  will  be  seen  that  the  sides  of  the  pond  slope  inward  to  the  bottom, 
commencing  at  a  point  about  two  feet  below  the  surface.  A  water  line  is 
maintained  about  three  feet  six  inches  above  the  main  bottom,  and  the  pond 
holds  approximately  forty-eight  thousand  gallons.  The  water  is  heated  by  a 
No.  10  Invincible  hot  water  boiler,  which  presents  a  grate  surface  of  about 
eleven  square  feet,  and  the  boiler  is  rated  to  carry  about  two  thousand  five 
hundred  square  feet  of  direct  radiation  for  heating  buildings.  The  piping  is 
four  inches  in  size,  of  the  greenhouse  cast-iron  variety,  with  greenhouse 
fittings  and  rust  joints.     Two  flow  and  two  return  mains  are  taken    from  the 


SECTION   ALONG   LIN 


BOILERfU 

Q 


HEATIN'G  A  LILY  POND— PROSPECT  PARK,  X.  Y. 


HEATING  PLANT  FOR  A  LILY  POND.  85 

boiler  to  the  piping  in  the  tank.  The  flow  mains  rise  from  the  side  of  the 
boiler,  which  is  of  the  sectional  type,  and  run  on  a  brick  foundation  inclosed  in 
a  wooden  box  to  the  Lilj-  pond. 

On  reaching  the  pond  the  two  flow  mains  have  a  stand-pipe,  which  serves 
both  as  an  air  vent  and  an  expansion  pipe.  From  this  point  the  piping  has  a 
fall  all  the  way  back  to  the  boiler.  After  passing  the  standpipe  the  flow  main 
drops  down  and  runs  around  to  a  point  near  the  main  Lily  bed  where  it 
connects  with  a  Y,  from  which  two  four  inch  pipes  are  run  around  the  pond, 
turns  being  made  by  means  ot  45°  ells,  as  shown.  On  reaching  the  point 
where  the  return  main  leaves  the  tank,  the  two  four  inch  pipes  are  connected 
into  a  Y  and  from  it  to  the  return  main.  This  method  of  piping  is  followed  in 
each  end  of  the  pond. 

The  requirements  laid  down  by  the  Park  Commissioners  were  that  a  tem- 
perature of  90°  should  be  maintained  in  the  water,  regardless  of  the  tempera- 
ture or  amount  of  water  that  it  might  be  necessary  to  turn  into  the  pond.  The 
fires  are  first  lighted  early  in  June.  The  water,  which  had  been  taken  from 
the  street  mains  to  supply  the  pond  and  change  the  water  in  it,  has  varied  in 
temperature  from  40°  to  50°,  and  the  specified  temperature  in  the  pond  has 
been  readily  maintained,  sometimes  running  as  high  as  96°  when  the  weather 
■was  bright  and  clear  and  the  sun  strong. 

When  an  outlet  at  one  end  of  the  pond  draws  off  the  hot  water  to  reduce 
the  temperature,  cold  water  is  brought  in  to  restore  the  proper  temperature 
and  level. 

An  overflow  pipe  is  provided  at  each  end  of  the  pond  to  prevent  the  water 
rising  above  the  desired  height.  In  operation  it  has  been  found  that  it  is  only 
necessary  to  attend  to  the  fire  in  the  boiler  twice  a  day,  and  in  damp,  dull  and 
cloudy  weather,  when  little  heat  benefit  is  derived  from  the  sun,  no  difficulty 
has  been  found  in  maintaining  the  temperature  at  90°  or  higher,  with  the 
water  in  the  flow  main  seldom  exceeding  120°.  The  water  in  the  pond  is 
heated  by  contact  with  the  pipes,  in  order  to  avoid  a  deposit  of  mud  in  the 
boiler  that  would  be  probable  with  the  water  in  circulation,  owing  to  the  earth 
for  the  plants  in  the  pond  and  the  dust  that  would  blow  into  the  pond  and 
settle,  both  of  which  would  be  carried  into  the  boiler. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OF  WATER  LILIES,  WITH  CULTURAL  MEMORANDA. 

1 HARDY    NVMPH.f.AS. 

Nymphxa  alha.  (White  Water  Lily).  This  species,  native  of  Great 
Britain,  has  long  been  in  cultivation.  It  is  a  vigorous  growing  plant,  with 
dark  green  glossy  foliage,  and  large,  white,  cup-shaped  flowers.  It  is  well 
adapted  for  use  in  either  artificial  or  natural  ponds,  and  shallow  or  deep  water, 
but  is  being  superseded  by  new  varieties  and  by  hybrids  of  greater  merit. 

N.  a.  candidissima  is  like  the  preceding  in  every  way,  except  that  it  has 
larger  flowers  with  broad  petals.  It  is  one  of  the  best  for  planting  in  large  ponds 
where  bold  effect  is  desired,  its  masssive  foliage  and  flowers  standing  out  well 
above  the  water,  as  seen  in  the  illustration  on  page  ii. 

N.  hlanda  is  a  vigorous  and  free  flowering  species,  somewhat  similar  to 
N.  a.  gigantea;  flowers  of  dazzling  whiteness  in  which  respect  it  is  unsurpassed 
by  any  other  white  flowered  Water  Lily  in  cultivation. 

N.  Candida,  (syn.  semiaperta).  A  Bohemian  species,  similar  to  N.  alba, 
but  of  moderate  growth.  Flowers  of  snowy  whiteness,  two  and  one-half  to 
three  inches  across;  sepals  tinged  with  green. 

The  Laydekeri  varieties  are  among  the  choicest  of  hybrid  Nymphsas  -^ 
their  flowers  are  medium  sized  (two  and  one-half  to  three  inches  in  diameter), 
the  plants  are  vigorous,  but  not  robust  like  the  Marliacea  forms.  They  are 
admirably  adapted  for  ponds  of  moderate  size,  where  space  is  limited  and  the 
greatest  variety  is  desired ;  they  are  also  well  adapted  for  growing  in  tubs. 

N.  L.  Mgens,  as  the  name  indicates,  is  of  a  glowing  brilliant  color;  petals, 
crimson  magenta;  stamens  garnet  rose.  Flowers  beautifully  cupped,  glowing 
like  a  brilliant  in  the  sunshine. 

N.  L.  fulva  has  large  star-shaped  flowers;  the  four  sepals  are  greenish  yel- 
low; petals  creamy  yellow  suffused  with  red,  stamens  golden  yellow.  Leaves. 
dark  green,  mottled  with  red. 

N.  L.  lilacea  has  a  delicately  formed  and  chaste  flower  of  a  soft  rosy  lilac 
color  with  yellow  stamens.  It  is  exquisitely  fragrant,  resembling  a  Tea  Rose. 
Leaves  deep  glossy  green,  with  occasional  dark  blotches. 

A^.  L.  purpurata  is  somewhat  larger  than  the  others  of  this  group  and   the: 


HARDY  XYMPH.^AS.  87 

petals  longer  and  more  sharply  pointed;  flowers  very  symmetrical:  of  a  rich 
rosy  crimson  color;  stamens  orange  red. 

A'.  L.  rosea  has  proved  a  universal  favorite,  the  peculiarity  of  the  flowers 
changing  from  a  rosy  pink  to  rose  purple  as  they  age,  affords  most  pleasing 
combinations  and  gradations  of  hue.  Where  several  plants  are  grown  together 
the  numerous  flowers  of  variotis  shades  give  a  charming  feature,  not  elsewhere 
known  in  Water  Lilies.  This  variety  is  well  adapted  for  large  aquariums  and 
will  produce  its  dainty  flowers  even  when  growing  in  a  four  inch  pot,  but  its 
true  character,  size  and  color  are  seen  only  when  planted  in  a  natural  pond 
and  left  undisturbed  for  at  least  two  seasons. 

iV.  L.  lucida  has  large  flowers  of  a  rosy-vermilion  color  with  orange 
stamens.     Leaves  beautifully  mottled  with  chestnut  red. 

A'.  Rohinsoni  with  flowers  larger  than  those  of  the  Laydekeri  varieties  is 
distinct  and  unique  in  color,  the  yellow  ground  color  is  overlaid  by  a  purplish 
violet-red,  deepening  toward  the  center  of  the  flower;  the  stamens  form  a  crown 
of  orange  red  color.     The  leaves  are  dark  green,  spotted  with  chestnut  brown. 

A^.  Seigiioureti,  flowers  delicate  yellow,  shaded  with  soft  rose  and  carmine, 
borne  on  erect  stems  and  stand  about  six  inches  above  the  water.  Leaves 
spotted  with  chestnut  brown. 

The  Marliac^a  Hybrids  mark  the  introduction  of  hybrid  hardy  Water 
Lilies,  and  include  the  very  best  forms.  Although  other  gems  have  since 
been  introduced,  they  do  not  compare  with  these  for  general  utility;  the  plants 
are  vigorous  and  robust,  flowers  large,  very  effective  in  groups  and  masses  in 
large  ponds,  or  as  single  specimens. 

A'  M.  alhida  has  all  the  good  qualities  of  N.  alba  candidissima;  the 
flowers  are  larger  and  fragrant,  of  a  dazzling,  sparkling  whiteness,  and  pro- 
duced very  freely  until  frost.  The  stamens  are  occasionall}-  flushed  pink,  es- 
pecially when  grown  in  stiff  soil. 

A'.  M.  cariica  is  in  every  respect,  save  color,  similar  to  the  preceding 
variety.  The  flower  is  of  a  soft  flesh  pink  color,  which  deepens  toward  the 
base  of  the  petals,  sepals  rose  pink :  with  a  delicate  fragrance  of  vanilla. 

N.  M.  chromatella  has  flowers  of  a  lovely  canary  yellow,  with  deep  yellow 
stamens,  large  and  handsome,  and  is  undoubtedly  the  best  yellow  hardy 
Water  Lily.  Leaves  bronzy  green,  with  chocolate  red  markings.  Plant  very 
vigorous,  inclined  to  be  bunchy  or  crowded,  and  .should  therefore  have  plenty 
of  room  and  be  in  permanent  quarters  where  it  is  not  likely  to  be  often  dis- 
turbed.    The  water  should  be  two  or  more  feet  deep. 

N.  M.  rosea  has  the  same  vigorous  habit  as  the  preceding  varieties,  the 
flowers  are  of  the  largest  size  and  a  beautiful  deep  rose  color,  the  young  foliage 
is  purplish  red,  changing  to  deep  green.  All  things  considered,  this  is  the 
best  hardy  pink  Water  Lily;  large  flowers,  fine  color,  and  free  flowering. 

A'.  M.  dammea  and  the  following  varieties  are  of  recent  introduction,  and 
are  yet  but  little  known  in  the  United  States.     The  flowers  of  flammea  are 


88  HARDY  NYMPH.^AS. 

bright  amaranth  red,  shaded  white;  the  outer  petals  pink,  the  color  deepen- 
ing toward  the  center;  stamens  deep  orange. 

N.  M.  ignea,  one  of  the  most  striking  of  recent  introductions,  has  fiowers 
of  magenta  red  and  stamens  orange  red.  It  is  a  brilliant  flower  in  the  sun- 
shine, and  is  highly  spoken  of  in  England,  where  it  apparently  does  well.  At 
present  it  has  not  proved  to  be  a  vigorous  grower,  nor  so  satisfactory  under 
cultivation  in  the  United  States. 

.V.  M.  rubra  punctata  has  a  beautiful  flower  of  moderate  size,  flowers  of 
deep  rosy  purple,  spotted  carmine,  with  orange  stamens. 

N.  odorata.  Our  native  sweet  scented  Water  Lily,  is  widely  distributed, 
and  can  be  found  in  many  ponds,  lakes  and  slow  running  streams.  Under 
cultivation,  associated  with  other  species,  it  has  been  fertilized  from  them  by 
insects;  in  this  way  and  also  by  other  means  several  forms  and  gradations 
(some  very  choice)  in  size  and  color  have  resulted.  The  best  forms  are  very 
desirable  for  their  large,  pure  white  flowers  and  delicious  fragrance.  The 
sepals  are  very  often  edged  with  pink,  giving  the  appearance  in  bud  of  a  pink 
flower.     A  grand  Water  Lily  for  naturalizing. 

N.  o.  caroliniana.  A  natural  cross  that  originated  with  Dr.  Henry  T. 
Bahnson,  of  Salem,  N.  C.  The  petals  are  of  a  delicate  soft  pink  and  the  golden 
stamens  reflect  a  lovely  salmon  tint.  It  varies  through  several  shades  in  color 
under  certain  conditions  and  soils.  The  flowers  are  of  the  largest  size.  A 
very  choice  and  select  variety,  and  has  proved  a  great  acquisition  where  it  has 
remained  undisturbed  for  two  or  three  seasons. 

N.  o.  exquisita  has  large,  rosy  carmine  flowers,  much  deeper  in  color  than 
those  of  N.  o.  rosea,  and  is  the  darkest  colored  Lily  in  this  group.  Foliage 
dark  red.     Moderate  grower.     A  hybrid  of  French  origin,  and  very  beautiful. 

N.  o.  gigantea,  sometimes  called  the  Southern  odorata,  being  common 
from  N.  Carolina  to  Florida,  and  the  only  white  variety  indigenous  to  this 
section,  differs  from  N.  odorata  in  being  a  more  vigorous  grower.  Large, 
handsome,  green  foliage,  vmder  side  bright  red.  Root-stock  occasionally  very 
large  and  hard.  The  flowers  are  large  and  pure  white,  somewhat  incurving, 
and  lacking  the  delicious  fragrance  peculiar  to  the  type.  It  requires  a  deeper 
water  than  the  type  to  grow  it  to  perfection. 

iV.  o.  maxima.  This  is  entirely  different  from  the  type ;  the  flowers  are 
large  and  cup-shaped;  petals  broad  at  the  base,  and  without  a  tinge  of  red  on 
either  sepals  or  petals.  A  most  beautiful  variety,  found  in  New  Jersey.  This 
is  probably  the  same  as  the  variety  N.  o.  superba.  (Some  doubts  exist  as  to 
this  and  the  preceding  variety  belonging  to  the  odorata  group). 

N.  o.  minor  is,  as  its  name  implies,  small.  Leaves  only  two  to  five  inches 
across,  and  flowers  two  to  three.  A  very  pretty  plant,  and  well  suited  for 
growing  in  tubs.  It  is  found  true  in  some  sections  of  New  Jersey  in  shallow 
water  of  cold  bogs  and  poor  soil.  There  are  other  forms  of  N.  o.  minor  with 
somewhat  cup  shaped  flowers,  and  only  slightly  fragrant. 


MUSA   ENSETE. 
Probably  the  most  noble  of  all  our  subtropical  plants,  its  full  beauty  and  true  character  can  only  he  seen  in  large  specimens  as 
here  shown.    The  plant  being  indigenous  to  Abyssinia  and  warm  climes,  requires  protection  in  winter.    The  plant  shown 
above  is  about  lo  ft.  high,  with  leaves  6  feet  long  and  2  feet  broad.     The  Giant  Elephant-Ear  plants  and  Eulalias  are 
insignificant  under  its  shadow. 


HARDY  NYMPH.-EAS.  &g 

N.  o.  rosaciea.  In  habit  and  general  appearance  resembles  N.  o. 
exquisita;  it  is,  however,  more  vigorous.  Flowers  bright  rose,  lighter 
toward  the  center,  the  rich  yellow  stamens  producing  a  soft  salmon  shade  of 
color;  the  petals  are  narrow  and  pointed,  the  flower  being  like  a  pink  star 
floating  among  the  leaves.     A  very  desirable  variety. 

N.  o.  rosea.  The  well-known  Cape  Cod  pink  Water  Lily;  is  indispensable 
in  any  collection.  Flowers  deep  pink  and  very  fragrant.  Early  and  free 
flowering;  its  season  is  somewhat  shorter  than  that  of  some  varieties.  It 
produces  seed  freely,  and  to  prolong  the  season  the  dead  flowers  should  be 
taken  off  and  no  seed  allowed  to  ripen,  which  can  be  easily  accomplished 
where  only  a  few  plants  are  grown.  In  extreme  hot  weather  the  flowers  are 
apt  to  bleach,  but  in  cool  sections  and  districts  like  Eastern  Massachusetts  the 
plants  and  flowers  are  to  be  grown  in  perfection. 

N  o.  suJphiirea  is  distinct  from  any  of  this  class.  The  large,  handsome 
yellow  flowers  stand  about  six  inches  above  the  water;  the  young  leaves  are 
beautifully  mottled  with  chestnut.  A  free  and  vigorous  plant  of  French 
origin. 

A',  pygmxa.  This  is  the  smallest  species  in  cultivation;  the  flowers,  which 
are  pure  white,  are  among  the  first  to  be  seen  in  spring,  and  continue  a  long- 
season.  The  species  is  well  adapted  for  tub  culture,  also  for  the  aquarium, 
and  it  will  produce  its  dainty  white  flowers  in  a  four  inch  pot.  When  planted 
out  and  left  undisturbed  for  two  or  three  seasons  the  flowers  are  larger  and 
very  pretty,  making  a  beautiful  contrast  to  the  other  giant  species.  It  forms 
no  runners  or  side  shoots,  and  does  not  spread  rapidly. 

N.  p.  Helvola.  This  is  in  truth  more  of  a  pygmy  than  the  species;  flowers, 
however,  a  trifle  larger,  canary  yellow,  produced  very  freely.  Especially 
recommended  for  cultivation  in  tubs  and  aquaria.  Leaves  beautifully 
mottled  with  reddish  brown,  and  smaller  than  in  the  type. 

N.  sphserucarpa  (Caspary's  Lily).  The  true  Swedish  Lily.  A  distinct  and 
beautiful  species,  and  very  unlike  N.  alba,  of  which  some  claim  it  to  be  a 
variety.  While  it  is  a  very  desirable  form  and  highly  spoken  of  in  England 
and  in  Europe  generally,  it  is  very  scarce,  and  does  not  flourish  as  do  others 
under  general  cultivation.  It  has  been  flowered  in  the  LTnited  States,  but  is 
apparently  very  impatient  of  removal,  the  least  disturbance  causing  a  check  to 
its  growth  and  stopping  its  flowering.  Another  drawback  to  its  cultivation  is 
its  dislike  to  hot  weather;  if  it  was  plentiful  it  would  doubtless  succeed  in  ponds 
where  cold  springs  are  a  hindrance  to  the  successful  cultivation  of  other 
desirable  species.  It  blooms  quite  early  in  the  season;  the  flowers  are 
rosy  carmine,  with  orange  stamens,  deepening  in  color  the  second  and 
third  days. 

N.  tuherosa  (syn.  reniformis)  is  a  native  species  of  the  Western  and  North- 
western lakes,  where  it  grows  in  deep  water.  A  strong  and  robust  plant. 
Leaves  eight  to  fifteen  inches  wide;  flowers  white,  four  and  a  half  to  nine 


90  TENDER  NYMPH.-EAS,  DAY  BLOOMING. 

inches  in  diameter;  slightly  fragrant.  The  root-stock  bears  numerous 
spontaneously  detaching,  often  compound,  tubers.  This  should  be  excluded 
from  small  ponds,  and  should  be  planted  by  itself. 

N.  t.  plena.  Flowers  white,  large  and  full;  petals  very  numerous,  the 
stamens  being  converted  into  petals,  which  are  fluted  in  the  center  of  the 
flower.  Plant  less  vigorous  than  the  type.  All  N.  tuberosa  forms  should  be 
grown  in  deeper  water  than  other  types. 

N.  t.  rosea.  A  natural  cross  Flowers  are  a  lovely  pink,  standing  well 
above  the  water,  somewhat  less  vigorous  than  the  type. 

II. TENDER    WATER     LILIES DAY    BLOOMING. 

Nytnphiea  caerulea  (syn.  stellata).  This  is  the  ancient  blue  Lotus  of  the 
Nile,  but  is  not  a  Nelumbium.  The  flowers  are  light  blue;  petals  long  and 
narrow;  sepals  greenish  white,  suffused  blue;  stamens  light  yellow,  tipped 
blue;  leaves  light  green,  spotted  in  the  young  state,  changing  to  green ;  the 
underside  of  leaf  also  green.     A  distinct  and  beautiful  species. 

N.  elegans.  A  pretty  Mexican  Water  Lily  of  moderate  size,  three  to  four 
inches  over.  Color,  white  tinged  with  purplish  blue ;  the  stamens  yellow, 
tipped  blue.  A  charming  flower.  Leaves  long  and  narrow,  deep  green, 
spotted  purplish  brown.  Well  adapted  for  tub  culture,  and  producing  its 
dainty  flowers  very  early  in  the  season. 

N.  Hava.  The  well-known  Florida  yellow  Water  Lily,  and  the  only  known 
yellow  species.  This  has  been  introduced  into  many  States  and  sections  of 
the  country,  but  has  not  been  a  success  under  any  kind  of  culture.  It  is  hardy 
as  far  north  as  New  Jersey,  a  moderate  grower,  and  produces  numerous 
runner-like  shoots  forming  young  plants.  Its  greatest  merit  consists  of  its 
being  undoubtedly  one  of  the  parents  of  Marliac's  magnificent  yellow  hybrids 
which  are  now  widely  known  and  are  many  times  more  desirable  for  all  garden 
purposes. 

N.  gigantea,  the  Australian  species,  is  sometimes  confounded  with  N. 
odorata  gigantea.  This  is  probably  the  finest,  most  handsome  and  distinct  of 
all  Nymphasas.  The  color  is  a  soft  satiny  purplish  blue,  shading  to  white  at 
the  base  of  the  petals;  the  stamens  are  silk-like,  soft  yellow,  incurving,  unlike 
any  other  species.  The  flower  is  carried  well  above  the  foliage  on  a  stifi: 
stalk,  and  is  of  the  largest  size.  The  leaves  are  green,  with  purple  reverse. 
This  species  is  very  impatient  of  removal,  re-potting,  or  transplanting,  during 
its  early  stages.  It  should  not  be  allowed  to  get  pot  bound,  nor  subjected 
to  sudden  changes  of  temperature,  which  will  cause  a  check  and  a  suspension 
of  active  growth.  Plants,  seedlings,  or  tubers  in  their  early  stages  should  be 
grown  in  a  temperature  of  80°  to  90° ;  later,  a  temperature  of  75°  to  80°  will 
suit  them.     (See  plate  facing  page  40.) 

N.  gracilis.  A  Mexican  species  of  great  merit,  has  large,  handsome,  star- 
shaped  white  flowers,  which  are  borne  on   stout   stems   well   above  the  foliage. 


TENDER  \YMPA:HAS.  day  BLOOMIXG.  91 

It  is  worthy  of  special  note  as  beinjj  the  only  white  day-blooniing  tropical  or 
tender  species;  a  very  vigorous  plant,  free  flowering,  the  flower  possessing  a 
delicate  fragrance,  resembling  Lily  of  the  Valley.  (See  plate  facing  page  24.) 
N.  mexicana.  This  is  possibly  a  form  of  N.  flava,  which  it  resembles  in 
most  respects.  The  habit  is  the  same,  but  the  runner  plants  not  infrequently 
produce  flowers  during  the  first  season.  The  plant  is  altogether  freer  flower- 
ing, and  the  flowers  are  brighter  and  deeper  in  color.  The  plant  is  the  same 
in  hardiness  as  N.  flava. 


STKLI.ATE   FORM   OF   NVMPH.tA. 

Seudling  of  N.  gracilis. 


N.  pukherrima.  Very  vigorous  and  free  flowering;  possibly  no  other 
equals  it.  The  flowers  are  very  large  under  high  cultivation — ten  to  twelve 
inches  across — of  a  beautiful  light  blue,  with  deep  yellow  stamens  tipped  blue; 
the  sepals  are  irregularly  striped  dark  red.  Unlike  N.  zanzibarensis,  this 
variety  opens  its  lovely  flowers  at  early  morn,  and  remains  open  until  other 
species  are  mostly  closed.  The  leaves  are  large,  and  often  exceed  two  feet  in 
diameter,  having  long  tapering  lobes  and  irregularly  crenated  margin.  Garden 
hybrid  of  American  origin. 


92  TENDER  NYMPH.-EAS,  NIGHT  BLOOMING. 

N.  scutifolia  (syns.  versicolor,  cyanea,  radiata).  This  is  a  beautiful  star- 
shaped  distinct  species.  The  flowers  are  clear  pale  blue,  shading  to  white  at 
the  base  of  the  petals.  Flowers  very  fragrant.  Leaves  variable,  green, 
sometimes  with  a  purplish  tint,  the  underside  occasionally  bright  red,  with 
brownish  red  markings;  margin  smooth.     Native  of  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 

N.  zanziharensis  (the  Royal  Purple  Lily).  This  and  its  several  forms  are 
among  those  that  might  be  styled  everybody's  flowers.  They  are  the  simplest 
to  manage,  easily  raised  from  seed,  will  flourish  in  a  tub  even  if  the  leaves  are 
high  and  dry.  Tubers  and  plants  are  no  longer  held  at  an  exorbitant  price, 
and  they  give  the  greatest  amount  of  pleasure  for  a  trifling  cost.  Flowers  of 
the  true  form  are  of  the  largest  size  under  high  culture;  the  sepals  and 
stamens  are  purple,  with  red  margin;  petals  intense  blue.  One  of  the  most 
beautiful  and  free  flowering  of  all  Water  Lilies.  Highly  fragrant.  The 
foliage  is  dark  green,  with  blotches  of  reddish  brown  and  bright  purple  under- 
neath. 

A^.  z.  azurea.  Similar  to  the  type,  but  varying  in  color  from  a  light  to 
dark  blue;  sepals  never  purple;  leaves  green,  with  dark  markings;  the  under- 
side green,  shaded  more  or  less  with  purple. 

A^.  z.  rosea.  Similar  to  the  type  save  in  color,  varying  from  deep  carmine 
to  pink;  leaves  shaded  red  on  the  under  side.  All  the  Zanzibar  Water  Lilies 
are  very  free  flowering,  and  are  accommodating  eitlier  for  tub  culture,  ponds, 
or  lakes. 

Ill TENDER    WATER    LILIES. NICIHT    BLOOMING. 

Nympheea  columhiana.  A  deep,  rich,  dark  red  flowered  variety  of 
medium  size,  six  inches  across;  stamens  cardinal;  the  color  deepens  each 
succeeding   day.     Foliage  dark  bronzy  red.     Plant  of  moderate  growth. 

N.  Deaniana.  A  robust  plant  with  large  bronzy  green  foliage;  petals  of  a 
beautiful  pink,  with  darker  sepals;  stamens  red.  Very  free  flowering,  requires 
plenty  of  room  for  leaf  spread  and  a  depth  of  water  twelve  to  eighteen  inches 
above  the  crown  of  the  plant.      Hybrid  of  American  origin. 

N.  delicatissima.  A  delicate  and  choice  flower  of  a  distinct  and  pleasing 
carmine  pink  color;  the  foliage  has  a  bronzy  green  lustre.  The  plant  is  vigor- 
ous, yet  moderate  compared  with  some  others.  Desirable  for  all  purposes  and 
has  proved  one  of  the  best  for  cutting,  and  also  for  winter  culture. 

N.devoniensis.  This,  one  of  the  oldest,  is  also  one  of  the  choicest  night- 
blooming  Water  Lilies  in  cultivation,  and  is  indispensable  in  any  collection  of 
moderate  size.  Under  liberal  cultivation  a  single  plant  will  cover  about  two 
hundred  square  feet  of  water  surface,  and  produce  numerous  flowers.  One 
plant  has  been  known  to  have  on  it  at  one  time  as  many  as  thirty-six  flowers 
and  buds  in  different  stages  of  development.  The  flowers  are  large,  ten  to 
twelve  inches  across,  of  a  brilliant  rosy  red,  a  most  pleasing  color  by  artificial 
light,  and  are  borne  on  stems  well  above  the  water.     The  leaves  are  red  chang- 


TENDER  NYMPH.-EAS.  NIGHT  BLOOMING.  93 

ing  to  bronzy  green.  The  first  hybrid  of  note,  and  was  raised  at  Chatsworth, 
England,  and  named  in  honor  of  the  Duke  of  Devonshire. 

A^.  dentata  is  the  largest  and  best  white  of  this  class.  It  has  long  pointed 
buds,  and  flowers  of  the  largest  size,  opening  horizontally,  and  measuring  ten 
to  twelve  inches  over.  The  leaves  are  deep  green  with  serrated  edges.  Native 
of  Sierra  Leone. 

A^.  kewensis  is  not  generally  met  with,  but  it  has  established  itself  as  a  first- 
rate  and  desirable  variety  in  any  collection.  The  flower  is  a  beautiful  rosy  red 
of  the  first  size.  Plant  vigorous,  with  bronzy  green  foliage,  purplish  under- 
neath.    A  hybrid  of  English  origin. 

N.  lotus.  (syn.  thermalis).  An  ancient  species,  indigenous  to  lower 
Egypt,  and  is  associated  with  the  Egyptian  and  blue  Lotus,  being  held  sacred 
to  Isis  and  was  engraved  on  the  ancient  coins.  The  flowers  are  white  with 
sepals  and  outer  petals  flushed  pink,  large  and  incurving;  somewhat  cup- 
shaped.  A  strong  and  vigorous  plant,  with  leaves  of  deep  green,  with  serrated 
edges. 

N.  O'Marana  is  of  recent  introduction,  and  has  achieved  a  grand  reputa- 
tion. The  flower  is  above  the  average  of  large  flowers,  attaining  a  size  of  from 
12  to  i^  inches  across;  it  is  borne  well  above  the  foliage  on  a  stout  stalk,  and 
as  it  opens  to  the  full,  the  sepal  and  outer  petals  droop.  The  color  is  a  beauti- 
ful rosy  red  with  an  indescribable  glow  produced  by  the  rays  of  the  rising  sun. 
The  leaves  are  large  and  of  a  dark  bronzy  red  heavily  dentated.  Lender  high 
cultivation  it  is  a  robust  plant  without  any  appearance  of  coarseness,  and  is 
also  very  free  flowering  at  a  very  early  stage.  The  largest  and  best  of  the  red 
Nymphseas.     Hybrid  of  American  origin. 

N.  rubra  is  a  beautiful  red  species,  somewhat  resembling  N.  Devoniensis 
but  the  sepals  are  broader  at  the  base  and  deeper  in  color,  the  petals  being  less 
pointed.  The  leaves  are  rounded  at  the  apex  and  mottled  purplish  on  the 
reverse;  otherwise  the  plant  is  similar  to  Devoniensis. 

N.  rubra-rosca  in  general  characteristics  resembles  the  preceding,  and 
is  liable  to  be  confused  with  it.  The  flower  is  much  the  same,  but  is 
larger,  and  brighter  in  color,  with  longer  buds  and  is  more  pointed. 

AT.  Smithiana.  All  the  tropical  Water  Lilies  delight  in  a  high  tempera- 
ture, and  if  this  one  can  be  grown  in  a  Victoria  pond  or  in  a  temperature 
corresponding,  the  true  character  and  chaste  coloring  will  be  very  greatly 
developed.  The  flower  is  of  medium  size,  perfectly  cup-shaped,  creamy  white 
with  yellow  stamens;  petals  broad  and  of  great  substance;  the  reverse  or  outer 
side  of  the  petals  is  delicate  pink.  The  higher  the  temperature  the  deeper 
and  brighter  the  color.     American  hybrid. 

N.  Sturtevanti.  A  superb  variety,  with  large  bright  rosy  red  flowers  of 
massive  proportions,  petals  broad  and  the  flowers  more  cup-shaped.  Requires 
a  high  temperature  to  develop  its  true  character.  Plants  should  be  started 
early,  as  they  do  not  flower  until  well  developed.     A  magnificent  Water  Lily 


94  THE   VICTORIA.-NELUMBIUMS. 

and  worthy  of  additional  care   to  bring  it  to  perfection.     American  hybrid. 
(See  plate  facing  page  48). 

IV. THE    VICTORI.-X     (the    ROYAL    W,A.TER    LILv),     AND    F.URYAI.E. 

Victoria  regia.  This  is  the  most  wonderful  of  all  water  plants.  It  inhabits 
the  tranquil  bays  and  lakes  of  the  great  streams  of  South  America,  and  details 
of  its  discovery  will  be  found  on  page  53.  The  plant  is  of  gigantic  proportions, 
the  leaves  grow  to  an  immense  size — from  six  to  seven  feet  across — with  a 
vertical  rim  from  three  to  eight  inches  high.  The  flowers  are  from  twelve  to 
fifteen  inches  in  diameter,  with  very  numerous  petals.  The  color  of  the  flower 
is  white  on  the  first  opening  day,  changing  on  the  second  day  to  rosy  pink. 

V.  regia  var.  Randii  was  discovered  and  introduced  by  Edward  S.  Rand, 
Jr.,  of  Para,  Brazil,  and  it  differs  from  the  original  in  several  particulars. 
The  whole  plant  is  more  robust;  the  young  leaves  are  of  a  darker  bronzy 
color;  the  vertical  rim  on  well-grown  plants  is  five  to  six  inches  high,  giving 
the  plant  a  striking  and  novel  appearance.  Leaves  are  produced  six  to  seven 
feet  in  diameter.  The  flowers  of  this  variety  are  white  on  the  first  day, 
changing  on  the  second  day  to  a  deep  crimson. 

Victoria  rcgia,  Trickers  variety.  A  new  distinct  Victoria  with  well- 
marked  characteristics  provisionally  named  as  here  given,  but  may  be  differ- 
ently entitled  on  further  knowledge.  Among  its  peculiarities  are:  first  the 
early  cupping  of  the  leaves,  the  turned  up  rim  being  shown  by  quite  small 
plants;  the  full  grown  leaves  are  large,  of  a  lustrous  bright  green  color,  and 
the  rim  is  from  six  to  eight  inches  deep.  The  flowers  are  also  produced  much 
earlier  than  on  the  other  Victorias,  and  are  larger,  measuring  from  fifteen  to 
eighteen  inches  over,  they  are  white  on  opening  changing  to  a  lively  rose  pink 
on  the  second  day.  The  sepals  in  this  variety  are  smooth,  whereas  the  others 
are  spinous  to  the  tips,  another  striking  characteristic  is  that  it  can  be  successfully 
grown  in  a  much  lower  temperature  than  is  usually  advised  for  other  Victorias. 
The  seed  will  also  germinate  in  a  lower  temperature,  in  fact  the  plant  does 
remarkably  well  treated  precisely  the  same  as  the  tropical  Nymphafas. 

Euryale  ferox  was  the  noblest  aquatic  in  cultivation  prior  to  the  introduc- 
tion of  the  Victoria,  its  large  circular  leaves  are  from  two  to  three  feet  in  di- 
ameter, with  prominent  spiny  veins  on  the  rich  purple  underside,  the  upperside 
being  olive  green,  puckered  and  spiny.  Flower  small  and  insignificant,  of  a 
deep  violet  blue. 

v. NELUMBIUMS EGYPTIAN    AND    JAPANESE    LOTUS. 

Nelumhium  album  grandiflorum.  A  magnificent  large  white  Lotus,  its  pure 
white  flowers  tower  above  the  handsome  foliage  and  contrast  conspicu- 
ously against  the  carmine  pink  of  other  Nelumbiums.  Given  the  same  soil  as 
Nymphaeas  and  located  in  a  warm  sheltered  spot,  and  not  removed  too  fre- 
quently, this  plant  will  produce  flowers  in  plenty. 


NliLUMBILMS.  95 

N.  a.  striatum.  A  large  and  bold  flower;  petals  white,  tipped  and  striped 
rosy  carmine;  it  is  a  vigorous  and  robust  variety,  and  flowers  very  freely 
under  liberal  culture. 

iV.  hiteum.  The  well  known  American  Lotus  or  Water  Chinquapin  has 
flowers  of  pale  yellow,  though  occasionally  in  stiff  clayey  soils,  the  color  is  as 
deep  as  in  Nymphsea  chromatella.  Plant  but  a  moderate  grower,  and  under 
artificial  conditions  should  receive  liberal  treatment.  Where  established  in 
natural  ponds  and  lakes,  it  is  vigorous  and  free. 

iV.  roseiim.  The  flowers  of  this  have  the  deepest  color  of  any  Lotus  in 
cultivation,  in  form  they  are  more  globular  than  others.  Deep  rose  pink. 
Plant  vigorous  and  not  as  tall-growing  as  in  N.  speciosa. 

iV.  Shieoman.  A  Japanese  Lotus  of  recent  introduction  ;  of  robust  growth, 
producing  leaves  and  flowers  of  gigantic  proportions.  The  leaves  are  from 
thirty-six  to  forty  inches  across,  supported  on  stout  stems  five  to  six  feet  high; 
the  large  double  white  flower  is  a  marvel  of  nature's  production  ;  as  free  flower- 
ing as  any  single  form  and  deserving  of  the  best  and  most  liberal  cultivation. 

N.  speciosum.  The  world  famed  Egyptian  Lotus  now  so  well  known 
throughout  the  United  States,  and  as  hardy  and  as  easily  grown  as  the  native 
Water  Lily,  except,  perhaps,  in  extreme  northern  sections.  The  flowers  are 
rose  pink,  creamy  white  at  the  base  of  the  petals,  but  on  first  opening  the 
flowers,  or  rather  the  buds,  are  a  lovely  shade  of  deep  rose  pink;  the  flowers  are 
not  fully  expanded  till  the  second  day,  when  they  are  in  their  best  form.  Ne- 
lumbiums  like  Nympha^as  are  three-day  flowers,  but  unlike  Nymphicas  they 
only  partially  close  at  night.     See  plate  facing  page  56. 

N.  Kermesianum.  A  Japanese  plant  of  great  merit;  the  flowers  are  of  a 
beautiful  carmine  rose  color  and  sntiny  texture,  of  large  size.  Vigorous,  free 
flowering,  and  early. 

N.  Seihakuren.  A  pygmy  among  Nelumbiums,  has  leaves  six  to  eight 
inches  across,  on  stalks  about  one  foot  in  length.  The  flower  is  pure  white, 
the  long  pointed  bud  resembling  a  large  tulip.  Can  be  grown  in  a  small  tub 
or  large  pot  standing  in  water. 


CHAPTER  XV. 


MISCELLANEOUS   AQUATIC   PLANTS. 


Apouogeton  distachyon.    (Cape  Pond  Weed).  Plowers  white,  fragrant;  pro- 
duced freely  at  all  seasons;  especially  to  be  recommended  for  winter  flowering. 
Aralia  papyrifera.      (syn.   Fatsia  papyrifera).      The  Chinese    Rice    Paper 
plant.       A  valuable  plant  for  .subtropical  work,   especially  in  the  sub-aquatic 

garden.  It  delights 
in  a  moist,  half-shady 
spot.  A  native  of  the 
shady  swamps  of  For- 
mosa. 

Cypenis  alterni- 
foliiis.  (Umbrella 
Grass).  A  desirable 
plant  for  pot  culture; 
also  for  planting  on 
the  edges  of  the  ponds, 
or  submerged  in 
water. 

C.    a.     yaricgatus. 
Similar  to  the  preced- 
ing type,  but  having  a  distinct  variegation  of  white;    a  desirable  variety,  but 
inconstant. 

C.    a.  gracilis.     A  small  form  of  Cyperus  with  narrow  foliage;   dwarf  and 
distinct. 

C.  natalensis.     An  ornamental  species,  with  long  Pandanus-like  foliage. 
C.   papyrus,    (syn.    Papyrus  antiquorum).    The   ancient    Egyptian   paper 
plant.     It   grows   in   marshy   places,    and    on    the   banks    of    rivers,    and   is 
indispensable  in  the  water  garden. 

C.  pungcns.     Similar  to  C.  alternifolius,  but  is  a  deepgreen  in  color;  grows 
taller,  and  is  much  stiffer. 


TENDER  AQUATICS. 


97 


Eichornia  azurca.  (Blue  Water  Hyacinth).  This  species  is  a  rampant 
grower  in  congenial  quarters  and  it  flowers  more  freely  than  E.  c.  major, 
producing  larger  spikes  of  flowers  of  a  lovely  shade  of  lavender-blue. 

E.  crassipes  major.  (Water  Hyacinth).  A  floating  plant  forming  rosettes 
of  curious  leaves,  having  stems  swollen  at  the  base  which  contains  numerous 
air  cells;  flowers  soft  rosy  lilac.  Advisable  not  to  plant  where  it  will  not  be 
winter-killed,  as  it  will  block  navigable  streams,  and  be  a  source  of  much 
trouble  and  expense  to  eradicate. 

Hcclvcliium  curonariiim.  (Garland  flower).  An  exceedingly  ornamental 
plant;  flower  white,  sweet  scented. 

Jiissiasa  longifuUa.  A  very  attractive  and  desirable  aquatic  plant,  growing- 
two  to  three  feet  high ;  erect  and  slightly  drooping  at  the  points.  Flowers 
bright  yellow,  somewhat  resembling  an  Evening  Primrose. 

Limnanthemum  indicum.  (syn.  Villarsia  Humboldtiana).  Floating  heart, 
commonly  known  as  Water  Snowflake.  Flowers  pure  white,  covered  with  hirsute 
glands;  very  pretty,  interesting  and  attractive  flower. 

L.  trachyspermum.  (The  Fairy  Water  Lily).  Flowers  pure  white,  small, 
borne  on  the  s  ime  stem  with  the  leaf. 

Limnocharis  Humholdti.  (The 
Water  Poppy).  Flowers  are  beauti 
ful  clear  yellow  with  black  sta 
mens;  leaves  oval,  floating;  le 
quires  shallow  water. 

L.  Plumieri.  This  is  an  eiect 
growing  plant;  standing  two  teet 
out  of  the  water.  Flowers  stiaw 
color ;  leaves  elliptical,  li.:;ht 
green. 

Maranta  zchrinn.  While  not 
an  aquatic,  it  is  valuable  as  a 
subtropical  plant;  its  handsome 
green  foliage  is  barred  with  deep 
greenish  purple,  the  under  side  of  ^^^   t  „  s  Humi  ut. 

leaf  dull  dark  greenish  purple. 

Musa  ensetc.  The  most  picturesque  of  all  our  subtropical  plants,  from 
three  to  ten  feet  high,  leaves  two  to  six  feet  long  and  two  feet  broad,  midrib 
bright  red.  Indispensable  from  the  water  garden,  its  broad  magnificent  foliage 
adding  a  tropical  effect  quite  in  harmony  with  the  tropical  Nymphfcas  and 
Victoria.     See  plate  facing  page  88. 

MyriopluUum  proserpinacoides.  (Parrot's  Feather).  A  graceful  half-hardy 
aquatic,  with  pretty  feathery  appearance.  Makes  a  beautiful  hanging  basket 
plant,  and  for  filling  a  vase  or  fountain  is  unequaled. 


98  HARDY   AQL'ATICS. 

Pistia  stratiotes.  (Water  Lettuce).  A  floating  plant;  leaves  wedge- 
shaped,  two  to  five  inches  long-;  of  a  delicate  pale  green,  covered  with  fine 
hairs.     Delights  in  warmth  and  shade. 

Sagittaria  lancifolia,  (syn.  S.  falcata).  A  strong  grower;  and,  unUke 
the  more  familiar  species,  the  leaves  are  lanceolate,  never  sagittate;  the 
scape  three  to  five  feet  high,  and  covered  with  large,  pure  white  flowers. 

S.  montevkliensis.  (Giant  Arrowhead).  Truly,  a  Giant  Arrowhead; 
leaves  flfteen  inches   long   on    tapering  stalks   four  to  five  feet  high  ;  flower 


Myriophyllum  proserpinacoides. 


scape  massive    and  taller  than  the  leaf  stalk 
with  a  dark  blotch  at  the  base  of  each  petal. 

Thalia  dealhata.     A  sub-aquatic  plant ;    very  ornamental 
subject;  leaves  ovate  on  long  petioles;  flowers  purplish,  small 


The  flowers  are  pure  white, 
a  subtropical 


Acorus  calamus.      The  well-known  Sweet  Flag, 

A.  gramineus  variegatus.  A  diminutive  form  like  A.  calamus,  with  grass- 
like leaves,  beautifully  variegated,  constant.  Will  not  scorch  in  summer,  and  is 
equally  good  in  shady  spots. 


HARDY   AOIATICS. 


99 


A.  japonicus  variegatus.  (Variegated  Sweet  Flag).  Foliage  beautifully 
striped  white;  it  grows  well  in  dry  or  moist  soil.  One  of  the  finest  variegated 
plants  in  cultivation. 

Alismn  natans.  A  small  aquatic  with  elliptical  floating  leaves  and  numer- 
ous three-petaled  white  flowers. 

.•1.    phintaffo.    (Water  Plantain).       Flowers  delicate  pale  rose  color;   scape 

branched;  branches  whorled,  com- 
pound. 

Asclepias  incaniata.       Flowers 
flesh     pink  ;      umbels     numerous; 
^^     '^         i^  WkW -GJ^  -^^  stems  erect;   height  two  feet.      A 

^  rr  ^^i  /  *^^r^"^%^  ^  beautiful    and    effective    plant    on 

(^         ■(k^^T^^^^^'^'c' 3^     "^Y^IT/       ^'^^  banks  of  ponds,  etc. 
^Q^^/^  %^  '"^    ^T     -^  Brascnia  pcltata.     Leaves  pel- 

^"^  I A  A.^\y        \  tate,    one    to    four   inches    across; 

flowers  small,  dull,  purple. 

Butomus  umhellatus.  (Flower- 
ing Rush).  Flowers  rose  colored. 
A  very  handsome  perennial  aqu- 
atic of  easy  culture. 

Calla  palmtris.  (Water  Arum 
or  American  Calla).  Flower  re- 
sembling the  cultivated  Calla,  only 
smaller,  six  inches  high;  root  stock 
long  and  creeping. 

Caltba  pahistris.  (Marsh  Mari- 
gold). Flowers  bright  yellow  early 
in  spring;  very  showy  and  attrac- 
tive. 

C.  pahistris  flore-plcno.  Similar 
to    the    preceding,    save  that    the 

P-^^^^fyr: "^"^ /^l^-^-;^^«^  *?>  J  flowers  are  perfectly  double,  re- 
f^^^K/j^f'  •  A«^ Ifc^^v^^^  ^  sembling  the  double  flowers  of 
klllH  (^IZVI'IImW^^&'^^I  tuberous  rooted  Begonias, 

vl    fl  il /(W  iHOv^Hffll  Hibiscus  moscheutos.     (Swamp 

M  7  JfJAjr^    <0^lP  Roge   Mallow).     A  most  desirable 

,       I     ''      \      ^        /  plant  for  the  aquatic  garden,  four 

to  six  feet  high ;  flowers  five  to  six 
inches  in  diameter,  rose-colored  or 
^^_j^.^^^  with  or  without  a  crimson 
eye. 
Iris  K.-Empfcri.  (Japanese  Iris).  Indispensable  plants  in  the  water-garden. 
They   should   be  planted    on   the    margin    of   the    pond,    or   where   they    are 


HARDY   AQUATICS. 


occasionally  submerged.  Flowers  measure  from  ten  to  twelve  inches  in 
diameter,  and  present  the  greatest  variety  of  color,  from  pure  white  to  the 
darkest  shades  of  royal  purple,  many  with  various  colors  marbled  with  white 
and  gold  mixed. 

Iris  pseudo-aconis.  The  yellow  Iris  of  European  marshes;  flowers  bright 
yellow;  leaves  linear,  long. 

Iris  orientalis.      Fine  ornamental  foliage;  rich  violet-blue  flowers. 

Jtinctis  couglomeratis  ful.  variegatis.  A  variety  of  the  common  Rush,  with 
foliage  beautifully  striped  golden  yellow. 

Limnanthcmum  lacunosum.  (Floating  Heart).  A  small  aquatic  with  mar- 
morate  foliage,  much  like  a  Cyclamen,  and  small  white  flowers. 

L.  iivmphieoides.  (Villarsia).  Leaves  Nymphaea-like ;  flowers  golden 
yellow,  produced  in  profusion.  Seeds  very  freely,  and  where  it  is  not  winter- 
killed is  liable  to  become  a  pest  as  it  is  of  such  vigorous  growth. 

Mciivanthes  trifoHata.  Flowers  white,  resembling  those  of  the  Horse 
Chestnut;  very  free  growing. 

Myosotis  pahistris  semperHorcns.     (Perpetual  flowering  Forget-me-not). 

Oruutium  nquaticum .  (Golden  Club).  A  very  attractive  and  pretty 
plant  with  beautiful  velvety  green  leaves,  and  a  curious  yellow  spadix  early  in 
spring. 

Pcltandra  virginica.  (The  Water  Arum).  Large,  narrow-shaped  foliage  ; 
white  spadix. 

Pontederia  cordata.     (Pickerel    Weed), 
about   two   feet    high,    and    producing 
spikes  of  closely  set  blue  flowers. 

Sagittaria  sagittifolia.  (The  Com- 
mon Arrowhead).     Flowers  white. 

S.  japonica  fl.  pi.  Very  similar  to 
our  native  species,  but  producing  num- 
erous spikes  of  large,  pure  white,  double 
flowers. 

Scirpus  Holosclioenus  vaviegatus.  A 
Siberian  Rush,  with  stems  twelve  to 
eighteen  inches  high ;  alternately  banded 
with  green  and  white. 

S.  taberniemontaun  yar.  zebrina. 
(Japanese  Porcupine  Plant).  A  very 
ornamental  rush,  growing  three  to  four 
feet  high ;  delicate  green,  barred  alter- 
nately with  white. 

Typha    latifolia.         (The  Common  Cat's  Tail). 

Zixania  acjiiatica.    (Wild   Rice).      Aquatic  annual;   very    ornamental  in  the 


A  free  flowering  plant,    growing 


AQUATICS  FOR  AQUARIA.   SHALLOW  WATER.  ETC.  loi 

water  garden.      Its  graceful  panicles  are  produced  on  stalks  five  to  ten  feet 
high.     To  be  grown  in  shallow  water;  seed  should  be  sown  in  fall. 

III. PI.AN-TS    FDR    .-^yUARI.A,     SH.ALI.OW     WATER,     KTC. 

Azulla  caroliniana.  (Floating  Moss).  Color  deep  green,  reddish  or  autumn 
tints  in  full  sun;  resembles  a  Selaginella  or  Moss. 

A.  filiculoides.  Similar  to  the  preceding,  but  a  stronger  grower;  color 
brighter,  and  spreads  rapidly,  soon  covering  the  surface  of  the  water. 

Cahomha  caroliniana.  (syn.  C.  viridifolia).  The  Fanwort,  one  of  the  most 
pleasing  of  submerged  plants;  leaves  glossy  green,  finely  cut.    See  illustration. 

C.  rosiefolia.  Similar  to  C.  caroliniana,  but  the  color  of  the  leaves  is 
brownish  green  ;  stems  carmine. 

Cyperus  alternifolius.     (Umbrella  Grass).      vSee  description,  page  g6. 


C.  a.  oracilia.     (Small  leaved  dwarf).     See  description,  page  96. 

C.  a.  varifgatus.     (Variegated).      See  description,  page  96. 

Callitriche  verna.   (Water  Star- wort).    Leaves  light  green  ;  submerged  plant. 

Hottonia  palustris.  (Water  Violet).  A  submerged  fern-like  plant,  with 
showy  white  flowers. 

Hvdrochari^  morsus-ramt'.  (Frog-bit).  Floating  plant  with  light  green 
cordate  leaves,  and  fine  silky  roots. 

Linmohium  spoiii;-ia.  (American  Frog-bit).  Floating  plant;  larger  and 
stronger  grower  than  the  preceding. 

Liidwigia  palustris.  (Water  Purslane).  As  a  submerged  plant  is  valuable 
for  aquaria;  grows  also  when  partly  submerged;  leaves  dark  green,  reddish 
underneath  ;  flowers  yellow ;  small. 

L.  Mulerttii.  Similar  to  L.  palustris;  leaves  larger,  dark  glossy  green, 
red  underneath ;  one  of  the  best  oxygenators  for  the  aquarium. 


102  AQUATICS  FOR  AQUARIA.  SHALLOW  WATER.  ETC. 

Myriophyllum  heterophyllum.  (Water  Milfoil).  Submerged  plant;  leaves 
green,  crowded,  often  whorled  and  pinnatifid. 

M.  virtkillatum.    Leaves  very  finely  pinnate,  dark  green;  stems  red. 

Nvmphiea  pygmsea,  white;  N.  p.  Hehola,  yellow;  N.  Laydekeri  rosea,  red. 
See  descriptions,  pages  87,  89.  These  Water  Lilies  are  well  adapted  for  large 
aquaria,  and  will  produce  their  lovely  flowers  when  growing  in  pots,  four 
and  five  inches  in  diameter. 

Pistia  stratiotes.  (Water  Lettuce).  Leaves  two  to  five  inches  long, 
forming  a  rosette  of  light  green  velvety  foliage. 

Potamogeton  crispus.  (Pond  Weed).  Submerged  plant;  leaves  bronzy 
green,  crisped,  wavy.     Common  in  streams  and  stagnant  water. 


Stratiotes  aloides. 


Sagittaria  graminea.    Leaves  broadly  linear;  flowers  white;  often  profusely. 

S.  natans.  Unlike  the  well-known  Arrowhead  the  leaves  here  are  strap- 
shaped  and  submerged,  but  in  shallow  water  the  plant  produces  floating- 
leaves,  which  are  occasionally  spotted;  flowers  white. 

Salviniu  braziliensis.  (syn.  S.  natans).  A  small  floating  plant ;  leaves  soft 
green,  covered  with  delicate  hairs. 

Stratiotes  aloides.  (Water  Aloe  or  Water  Soldier).  A  submerged  plant; 
dark  green  spiny  foliage,  similar  to  that  of  a  Pandanus. 

Vallisneria  spiralis.  (Tape  or  Eel  Grass).  Ribbon-like  grass,  six  inches  to 
three  feet  long;  a  submerged  plant,  and  desirable  for  the  aquarium. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

ORNAMENTAL  GRASSES,  BAMBOOS,  ORCHIDS  AND  PITCHER  PLANTS. 

Arundo  donax.  A  magnificent  giant  Grass,  growing  to  the  height  of  twelve 
to  fifteen  feet,  and  making  noble  chniips;  invaluable  for  the  water  or  bog 
garden.     See  illustration,  page  79. 

A.  d.  variegata.  A  variegated  form  of  the  above,  and  an  imposing  object 
in  any  position. 

Bamhusa  aurea.  A  distinct  and  beautiful  species,  attaining  from  ten  to 
twelve  feet  in  height;  stems  golden  yellow  color,  with  light  green  foliage. 
This  has  proved  quite  hardy  in  vSouthern  New  Jersey,  where  the  canes  have 
remained  evergreen  during  the  winter,  followed  by  new  growth  in  the  spring; 
the  canes  attaining  a  richness  of  color  not  to  be  seen  the  first  season. 

B.  Metake.  A  handsome  and  perfectly  hardy  Bamboo,  having  large,  deep 
green  foliage;   fine  for  margin  of  water.       A  popular  plant;  moderate  height. 

B.  nigra.  Another  handsome  species,  having  glossy  black  stems,  with 
graceful  foliage  of  a  pleasing  light  green  color;  one  of  the  most  distinct. 

B.  Quilioi.  A  vigorous  variety,  growing  eight  to  ten  feet  in  height,  but 
while  hardy  as  far  north  as  Philadelphia,  does  not  retain  its  foliage  as  B.  aurea. 

B.  scriptoria.  The  most  distinct  of  any  Bamboo;  its  slender  canes,  with 
deep  green  foliage,  the  under  side  a  glaucous  blue;  is  most  pleasing  and 
attractive. 

B.  viminalis.  A  distinct  and  dwarf-growing  species,  with  dark  green 
foliage ;  makes  a  compact  bush. 

B.  violascens.  A  handsome  and  distinct  species,  having  much  branched 
stems,  attaining  seven  to  eight  feet  in  height,  clothed  with  graceful  foliage. 

B.  viride  glaucescens.  A  vigorous  growing  species,  ver}-  graceful  and 
ornamental;  yellow  stems;  glaucous  green  foliage,  resembling  B.  aurea. 

Erianthus  Ravennie.  A  strong  growing  ornamental  grass,  resembling  the 
Pampas  grass,  having  bronzy  foliage  and  purplish  plumes;  nine  to  twelve 
feet  high. 

Eulalia  gracillima  univittata.  A  very  ornamental  grass,  not  so  tall  as  the 
well-known  E.  japonica,  with  narrow  leaves,  long  and  graceful,  with  a  distinct 
silvery  midrib. 


PITCHER  PLANTS  OR  SIDE-SADDLE  FLOWERS. 


E.  japonica.     A    vigorous  grower,   leaves  green,   and  with  larger  plumes 
than  in  either  its  varieties. 

E.  japonica  varicgata.     This  variety  is  similar  in  growth   to   the  t3'pe,  with 
a  creamy  white  band  running  through  each  leaf;  very  striking  and  distinct. 

E.  japonica  xchrina.  (Zebra-striped  Grass).  A  novel  form  of  variegation  ; 
the  long,  graceful  leaves  having  bars  of  yellow  running  crosswise,  not  longi- 
tudinally, as  in  the  foregoing  variety. 
It  grows  from  six  to  nine  feet  high. 
Gynerium  argenteum.  (Pampas 
Grass).  One  of  the  most  effective 
of  ornamental  Grasses  ;  its  silvery 
plumes  are  produced  on  stems  eight 
to  ten  feet  high.  Established  plants 
can  remain  in  the  open  ground  if 
protected.  It  is  not  hardy  except  in 
the  Southern  States. 

Panicum  virgatiim.  A  fine,  stately 
Grass ;  four  to  six  feet  high,  forming- 
large  tufts  with  many  panicles  of 
small  flowers. 

Phalaris  arundinacea  varicgata. 
A  reed-like  Grass  with  a  very  dis- 
tinctly white-striped  leaf;  two  to 
three  feet  high. 

Setaria  magna.  (Bristly  Foxtail 
Grass).  Annual.  Inflorescence  a 
dense  panicle  two  to  three  feet  long; 
pale  green ;  a  very  conspicuous  and 
ornamental  plant;  attaining  a  height 
of  ten  to  twelve  feet. 
Uniola  latifolia.  One  of  the  best  of  our  native  perennial  Grasses;  three  to 
four  feet  high,  with  large  flat  leaves;  flower  heads  in  graceful  drooping  panicles. 


Darlingtonia  californica.  A  fine  bog  plant,  found  in  cool  springy  places  in 
California,  with  peculiar  shaped  pitchers  and  nodding  purple  flowers. 

Dionsea  muscipiila.  (Venus'  Fly  Trap).  A  curious  plant,  allied  to  Drosera, 
having  a  number  of  prostrate  leaves  furnished  at  the  edge  with  a  thick  row  of 
bristle-like  hairs;  while  in  the  center  of  each,  are  three  short  hairs,  which, 
when  touched,  cause  the  leaves  to  fold  up,  enti'apping  the  insect,  which  soon 
dies;  when  this  takes  place  the  leaf  again  assumes  its  normal  position. 

Drosera  filiformis.  (Thread-leaved  Sundew).  A  most  curious  and  interest- 
ing plant   from   its  peculiar  arrangement  for  catching  insects.      It  is  covered 


ORCHIDS. 


e  covered  with  a  glistening  drop,  like 
I  moist  place. 


throug-hout  with  fine  red  hairs  that 
dew.       Should  be  planted  in  groups 

Snrracenia  Dnimmondi.  Large 
erect  pitchers  or  leaves;  two  feet 
high;  light  green  in  color,  with 
the  apex  or  hood,  beautifully 
variegated  white,  red,  and  green; 
flowers  white  and  purple. 

S.  Hava.  Yellowish  green 
leaves;  two  to  three  feet  high; 
having  at  the  apex  a  large  open 
throat,  with  a  broad  lid;  large 
nodding  yellow  flowers. 

S.  psittacina.  (Parrot-beaked 
Pitcher  Plant).  A  very  pretty 
and  distinct  species,  its  small 
pitchers  having  a  curiously  curved 
lid,  or  apex,  of  a  rich  purple  and 
crimson  color,  handsomely  mut 
tied  with  white. 

S.  purpurea.  A  prostrate 
species,  having  broad  winged 
pitchers  three  to  eight  inches  long 
the  throat  and  lid  very  hairy,  and 
beautifully  veined  and  striped 
crimson;    large    purple    flowers, 

nodding  on   a  stalk   a  foot  high;    perfectly  hardy,   plant  in   ful 
shade,  on  the  margin  of  the  pond  or  stream 
S.    rubra.       Leaves    ten    to    eighteen 


mcnes    lont 


slender,   with  purple  veins;   reddish  purple  flowers. 

S.  variolaris.  Leaves  trumpet-shaped;  six  to  twelve 
inches  high,  spotted  with  white  near  the  yellowish  apex, 
reticulated  with  purple  veins  within ;  yellow  flowers. 

With  exception  of  S.  purpurea,  all  are  tender  north 
of  Carolina  States,  and  need  protection  of  leaves  in 
winter,  or  may  be  grown  in  a  greenhouse.  They 
delight  in  boggy  soil,  and  live  sphagnum  moss.  If  grown 
in  pots,  they  should  be  set  in  saucers  of  water. 


Calopogoti  pukhcllui^.  One  of  the  most  beautiful  of  our  native  Orchids,  and 
most  desirable  for  the  water  garden;  leaf  linear;  scape  about  one  foot  high; 
two  to  six  flowers;  flower  one  inch  broad,  pink-purple;  lip  beautifully  bearded 
toward  the  summit  with  white,  yellow,  and  purple  hairs. 


ic6  ORCHIDS. 

Cah'pso  horealis.     A  small  showy  flower,  the  solid  bulb  producing  a  single 

heart-shaped  leaf;  scape  three  to  five  inches  high,  bearing  a  large  and  show}' 

flower,  variegated  purple,  pink,  and  yellow. 

Cypripedium  piibescens.     (Large  Yellow  Lady's-slipper).      Leaves    broadly 

ovate ;  stem  two  feet  high  ;  lip  one  and  one  half  to  two  inches  long,  pale  yellow. 
C.  spectahik.     (Showy  Lady's-slipper).     Leaves  ovate;  stem  two  feet  high; 

lip  one  and  one-half  inches  long,  much   inflated;    white,    pink-purple.     The 

most  beautiful  of  the  hardy 
Cypripediums.  No  genus  of 
Orchids  is  more  widely  distri- 
buted than  Cypripedium.  Our 
native  species  are  most  beauti- 
ful, particularly  this  one,  they 
are  deserving  of  more  general 
cultivation,  and  no  better  place 
can  be  found  than  the  water 
garden,  the  natural  or  wild 
garden  adjacent.  They  delight 
in  a  moist,  peaty,  or  boggy  soil, 
and  partial  shade. 

Hahenaria  blephariglottis. 
(White  Fringed  Orchid).  Stem 
one  foot  long ;  leaves  lanceolate ; 
flowers  white;  lip  ovate,  with 
an  irregular  capillary  fringe. 

H.  ciliaris.  (Yellow  Fringed 
Orchid).  Stem  one  and  one-half 
to  two  feet  high ;  leaves  oblong 
or  lanceolate;  spike  oblong, 
with  numerous  flowers,  which 
are  bright  orange  yellow;  lip 
oblong,  furnished  with  a  very 
long  and  copious  capillary 
fringe;  our  most  handsome 
species. 

CypripeJ.um  Spectablle.  U        psycocles.  (Purplc 

Fringed  Orchid).  A  very 
handsome  and  fragrant  Orchid;  one  to  three  feet  high;  flowers  purple, 
crowded  in  a  spike  four  to  ten  inches  in  length. 

Spiranthes  cernua.  (Ladies'  Tresses).  A  delicate  and  beautiful  white  and 
very  fragrant  flower,  produced  on  a  stem  six  to  twenty  inches  high ;  spike  two 
to  five  inches  long;  more  or  less  spirally  twisted;  flowers  in  September  and 
October. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

FERNS  SUITABLE  FOR  THE  AQUATIC  GARDEN- 

THE  FRINGE  of  the  water  garden  is  an  ideal  place  for  Ferns.  As  embel- 
lishments for  shady  spots  where  few  other  plants  will  grow,  Ferns  will 
give  most  gratifying  results.  On  the  margin  of  the  pond  where  partial  shade 
is  afforded  or  not,  on  a  bank  by  the  side  of  a  running  stream,  or  associated  with 
other  plants  on  the  rockery,  their  graceful  fronds  lend  a  most  welcome  and 
desirable  change  of  foliage. 

Wliat  Ferns  do  love — nay,  demand — is  plenty  of  moisture;  in  preparing  a 
place  for  their  reception,  then,  care  should  be  taken  that  the  soil  be  so  drained 
that  while  the  Ferns  can  have  plenty  of  the  moisture  they  need,  there  shall  be 
no  standing  water  about  their  roots. 

As  to  soil,  all  Ferns  thrive  best  in  a  light  porous  earth.  If  the  soil  is 
"  made  "  the  proportions  should  be  about  one-third  sand  and  two-thirds  good 
leaf  mold,  with,  perhaps,  some  peat  added.  However,  most  Ferns  in  the 
following  list  will  grow  well  in  almost  any  garden  soil. 

Ferns  love  shade  as  much  as  they  do  moisture,  and  while  there  are 
several  species  that  will  grow  in  the  open  sunlight  and  present  a  fresh  and 
green  appearance,  these  very  species  do  much  better  and  throw  up  finer 
and  larger  fronds  when  in  shade.  Some,  however,  are  not  lovers  of  deep 
shade,  and  seem  to  attain  their  best  development  in  open  woods  or  half  shade. 

The  best  time  for  transplanting  is  either  very  early  in  spring  or  in  the 
fall.  Generally,  any  time  after  midsummer  will  do.  The  majority  of  Ferns 
produce  in  spring  a  set  of  fronds  which  last  through  the  summer,  no  new  ones 
being  produced.  These  species  should  be  transplanted  if  possible,  while  the 
plants  are  resting,  but  if  not,  they  may  be  taken  up  carefully  at  other  seasons. 
Those  which  send  up  fronds  all  summer  may  generally  be  transplanted  at  any 
time,  and,  if  cared  for,  for  a  few  days,  will  begin  again  to  produce  new  fronds. 


loS  FERNS  SUITABLE  FOR  THE  AQUATIC  GARDEN. 

Ferns  I'ather  resent  much  digging  about  their  roots,  but  if  the  soil, 
moisture,  and  shade  are  right,  they  will  continue  to  grow  larger  and  better 
each  year. 

In  winter  the  species  enumerated  will  need  no  protection  except,  perhaps, 
a  light  covering  of  leaves. 


Adiantum  pedatum.  (Maiden  Hair).  Eight  inches  to  two  feet  high. 
Stem  forked,  the  divisions  once  to  thrice  pinnate.  Grows  from  a  creeping 
rootstock,  sending  up  fronds  all  summer.  Rich  leaf  mold  in  damp  shade. 
Found  in  damp  woodlands  and  hillsides. 


FHRNS  Sl'ITAIlLH  FOR  THI-   AOIATIC  CARDI-X.  109 

As[>lcniiim  ncnistkhoiilcs.  (Silvery  Spleen  wort).  One  to  twcj  feet  hioh. 
Fronds  nearly  twiee  pinnate,  in  a  eircle  from  a  short  rootstoek.  Rieh  woods 
in  leaf  mold. 

A.  ang-ustifoliiini.  (Narrow-leaved  vSplecnwort).  One  to  three  feet  high. 
Pinnate;  fronds  very  thin,  the  fertile  somewhat  narrower  than  the  sterile. 
In  shade  only.  Found  in  damp  ricli  woods.  Fronds  in  a  eircle  in  early 
summer. 

.4.  fiUx-foemina.  (Lady  fern).  Six  inches  to  five  feet.  Twice  pinnate; 
sometimes  nearly  thrice  pinnatifid.  Grows  in  clumps  sending  up  fronds  in 
early  summer.  Prefers  rich  open  woods,  but  thrives  in  damp  places  in 
sunlight. 

Cystoptcris  fmgilix.  (Fragile  Bladder  Fern).  Fronds  in  clumps  five  to  twelve 
inches  high.  Twice  or  thrice  pinnate.  Fronds  fragile,  produced  during  spring 
and  early  summer.     Damp  soil  in  rich  earth,  will  stand  some  sun. 

Dicksonia  punctilobula.  (Hay-scented  Fern,  Mountain  Fern,  Sweet  Fern). 
Two  to  three  feet  long,  from  slender  rootstocks  that  creep  extensively.  Fronds 
tri-pinnatifid,  sweet-scented  when  crushed.  Usually  found  in  upland  rocky 
woods  and  pastures.     Grows  well  in  leaf  mold. 

Dryopteris  acrostichoides.  (Christmas  Fern).  Evergreen.  One  to  two  and 
one-half  feet  long.  Fronds  thick,  produced  in  a  circle  from  a  short  thick  root 
stock  early  in  spring.  Once  pinnate.  In  damp  shade  in  nearly  any  soil.  Fronds 
used  for  Christmas  decorations. 

D.  cristata.  (Crested  Shield  Fern).  One  to  three  and  one-half  feet  long. 
Fronds  narrow  and  erect,  in  circles  from  a  short  rootstoek.  Pinnate,  the  pinna; 
pinnatifid.     Grows  naturally  in  swamps  and  damp  open  woods. 

D.    c.  Clintoniana.     Is  a  larger  form  of  the  above. 

D.  Goldieana.  (Goldie's  Shield  Fern).  Two  to  four  feet  high.  Fronds 
ovate,  nearly  thrice  pinnatifid;  from  a  short  rootstoek  in  circles  in  early 
summer.      Deep  shade  in  very  rich  leaf  mold.     A  magnificent  species. 

D.  marginalis.  (Marginal  Shield  Fern).  One  to  three  feet  high.  Fronds  in 
spring  from  a  short,  erect,  rootstoek  ;  twice  pinnate.  Fronds  in  circles.  Will 
stand  some  sun,  but  prefers  shade,  and  will  grow  in  almost  any  soil.  Nearly 
evergreen. 

D.  novehoraccnsis.  (New  York  Fern).  Thin  and  delicate.  One  to  three  feet 
high.  Nearly  twice  ])innate.  Deep  shade  in  rich  earth.  Foliage  fragrant 
when  crushed.      Fronds  in  early  summer. 

D.  spitiiilosa  and  its  varieties  intermedia  and  dilatata.  (Spinulose  or  Bristly 
Shield  Fern).  One  to  three  feet  high.  In  circular  crowns  from  a  short,  erect 
rootstoek.  Fronds  produced  in  spring;  about  thrice  pinnate,  the  pinnules 
tipped  with  bristles.     Rich  woodlands.     Nearly  evergreen. 

D.  Bootlii.     Resembles  the  preceding. 

D.  Thclypteris.  (Lady  Fern.  Marsh  Shield  Fern).  One  to  three  feet  high. 
Bi-pinnatifid,  produced  from  running  rootstocks  nearly  all  summer.      Grows  in 


no  FER.XS  SUITABLE  FOR  THE  AQUATIC  GARDEN. 

sun  or  shade  in  peaty  soil  or  leaf  mold.  Its  usual  habitat  being  swamps  and 
borders  of  streams. 

Lvgodium  palmatum.  (Climbing  Fern).  Three  to  six  feet  long.  Pinnae 
roundish,  five  to  seven  lobed.  Grows  in  swamps  near  the  Atlantic  seaboard, 
twining  about  the  bushes,  usually  in  half  shade.     Rootstock  slender,  creeping. 

Onoclea  sensibilis.  (Sensitive  Fern).  vSterile  fronds  one  to  three  feet  high. 
Broadly  triangular,  ovate,  nearly  pinnate.  Fertile  fronds  produced  late  in  the 
season,  the  divisions  rolled  up  into  berry-like  objects.  Both  kinds  of  fronds 
from  a  creeping  rootstock,  the  sterile  produced  all  summer.  Will  grow  in  any 
soil,  in  sun  or  shade,  its  natural  home  being  the  borders  of  streams,  swamps, 
and  wet  woodlands. 

O.  Struthiopteris.  (Ostrich  Fern).  Our  tallest  Fern,  one  to  ten  feet  high,  in 
a  crown  of  twenty  or  more  fronds.  Sterile  fronds  twice  pinnatifid,  oblanceo- 
late  in  outline.  Fertile  fronds  produced  late  in  the  season,  their  divisions  rolled 
up  much  as  in  O.  sensibilis.  Banks  of  streams  and  wet  open  woods  in  sandy 
soil  or  leaf  mold.  Will  stand  sun  all  day,  but  grows  best  in  partial  shade,  at 
least.     Spreads  by  offsets  at  the  ends  of  long  runners. 

Osmunda  Clay^oniaaa.  (Interrupted  Flowering  Fern.  Clayton's  Fern). 
One  to  four  feet  high.  Bi-pinnatifid.  Fronds  in  crown  of  six  to  twelve,  from 
a  very  thick  rootstock  in  early  spring.  Fertile  fronds,  have  part  of  the  middle 
of  the  frond  turned  to  spore-bearing  organs.  Found  in  swamps  and  pastures. 
Will  stand  sun  or  shade,  but  requires  rather  rich  soil. 

O.  cinnamotnea.  (Cinnamon  Fern).  One  to  five  feet  high.  Fronds  in  large 
crowns  in  early  spring  from  an  exceedingly  heavy  rootstock;  bi-pinnatifid. 
Fertile  fronds  produced  in  early  spring,  from  the  midst  of  the  sterile,  but  im- 
like  them  are  short,  thick,  club-shaped,  the  green  portion  changed  to  myriads 
of  little  spore  cases,  of  a  bright  brown  color  when  ripe.  Will  stand  sun  or 
shade,  if  the  soil  is  wet.  Grows  naturally  in  swamps,  pastures,  and  low 
grounds. 

0.  regalis.  (Royal  Fern.  Flowering  Fern).  One  to  six  feet  high. 
Twice  pinnate,  the  pinnules  usually  orbicular.  Fronds  in  circular  clumps  from 
a  very  thick,  stout,  erect  rootstock.  Fruiting  panicle  at  the  end  of  the  fronds. 
Will  grow  in  sun  or  shade.  Its  natural  habitat  is  swamps  and  wet  woodlands, 
where  it  is  often  found  growing  in  shallow  water;  will  grow  also  in  drier  situ- 
ations.    Fronds  in  spring  and  early  summer. 

Pliegopteris  Dryopteris.  (Oak  Fern).  Three  to  twelve  inches  high.  Frond 
ternate  (like  three  Ferns  in  one),  the  division  stalked  and  bi-pinnate.  Root- 
stock  creeping  and  producing  fronds  all  summer.  Moist  rich  places  in  shade 
only. 

P.  Pliegopteris.  (Beech  Fern).  Three  to  ten  inches  high.  Fronds 
triangular,  nearly  twice  pinnate.  Rootstock  running;  fronds  all  summer. 
Damp  woods,  usually  in  stony  soil  in  rich  earth.     Does  not  endure  the  sun. 

Pteris  aqvilina.     (Bracken,    Brake,    Eagle  Fern).     One  to    six  feet  high; 


FERNS  SriTAIiLE  FOR  THE  AQUATIC  GARDES.  m 

usually  about  two  or  three  feet  high.  Fronds  triangular,  the  divisions  twice 
pinnate.  Grows  from  a  long,  slender,  running  rootstock  deep  in  the  earth ; 
fronds  during  early  summer.  Nearly  any  soil  except  clay;  will  endure  full 
sunlight  and  dry  soil,  but  is  best  in  damp  shade.  Common  throughout  the 
world. 

Woodwardia  areolata.  (Chain  Fern).  One  to  two  feet  high.  Fronds  of 
two  kinds;  the  fertile  nearly  pinnate  with  narrow  divisions,  the  sterile  broader, 
and  produced  earlier.  Prefers  salt  water  marshes  and  is  found  in  America, 
mostly  along  the  Atlantic  seaboard. 

W.  virg-inica.  (Chain  Fern).  Two  to  four  feet  high.  Nearly  twice 
pinnate.  Rootstock  thick,  creeping;  fronds  produced  in  early  summer. 
Prefers  a  peaty  soil  in  half  shade.  Grows  naturally  in  bogs  in  Eastern  North 
America. 

The  Botrychiums  or  Grape  Ferns,  B.  virginiimum  and  B.  tcrnntum  with 
its  varieties,  are  not  true  Ferns,  but  are  sometimes  cultivated.  They  have 
ternate,  much  divided  fronds,  and  bear  spores  in  a  transformed  part  of  the 
frond.  They  are  natives  of  dark,  damp  woodlands,  and  will  thrive  if  given  the 
same  surroundings  in  the  Fern  garden. 


^ 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

HARDY    PERENNIAL    PLANTS 

SUITABLE    FOR    MARGINS    OF    PONDS    AND    MOIST    GROUNDS. 

Achillea  tllipetidula.  A  vigorous  showy  species,  with  golden  yellow  flowers 
in  dense  flat  corymbs,  on  stout  stems,  three  to  four  feet  high;  foliage  very 
handsome;  flowers  from  July  to  October. 

Amsonia  tabeni  tnontana.  Pale  lavender-blue  flowers  in  May  and  June  in 
broad  clusters. 

Ariswwa  triphyUum.  (Jack-in-the-Pulpit).  An  aroid,  twelve  to  eighteen 
inches  high,  with  a  turnip-shaped  corm.  Spathe  green,  or  often  variegated 
with  dark  purple  and  whitish  stripes  or  spots,  and  much  hooded  at  the  summit. 
An  interesting  and  showy  plant. 

Armeria  maritima.  (Sea  Pink).  A  pretty  species,  producing  from  a 
crowded  tuft  of  leaves  heads  of  bright  colored  flowers;  and  var.  "  Pink  Beauty" 
a  pretty  pink  variety. 

Asclepias  tuherosa.  (Butterfly  Weed).  Compact  umbels  of  brilliant  orange 
colored  flowei-s  on  stems  two  feet  high ;  very  showy  and  effective  in  masses. 

Aster  ohlongifolius.  Forms  a  compact  bushy  plant  with  numerous  violet- 
purple  flowers  with  yellow  centers.     Good  for  the  wild  garden. 

Cassia  marilandica.  (American  Senna).  A  plant  growing  from  three  to 
four  feet  high,  bushy,  with  large  panicles  of  curiously  shaped,  bright  yellow 
flowers  in  abundant  axillary  clusters  The  beautiful  pinnate  light  green 
foliage  is  very  pleasing.     A  very  desirable  plant. 

Clematis  Davidiana.  A  fine  species,  bearing  large  axillary  clusters  of 
fragrant  blue  Hyacinth-like  flowers ;  grows  three  feet  high,  and  is  erect  in  habit. 

C.  erecta.  (Upright  Virgin's  Bower).  An  erect  species,  two  to  four  feet, 
with  dense  panicles  of  small  white  flowers  in  early  summer. 

C.  intcgrifolia.  An  erect  species,  one  to  two  feet  high,  with  blue,  very 
fragrant,  solitary  nodding  flowers,  one  to  two  inches  across. 

C.  tuherosa.  A  showy  erect  species,  similar  to  Clematis  Davidiana,  but 
with  dark  purple  flowers  in  summer. 

Dcsmodium  penduMorum.  This  beautiful  plant  blooms  in  late  summer, 
producing  large  clusters  of  reddish-purple,  pea-like  flowers. 


HARDY   PERESXIAL    I'LAXTS. 


Diccntrn  cxiiiiln.  (Plumy  BleecHny  Heart).  Leaves  as  ;;raccful  as  those  of 
a  fern;  flowers  rose-color,  in  o'raceful  racemes,  appeariiiL;'  all  summer.  For 
beauty  of  foliage  and  its  constant  blooming-  cjualitics,  one  of  the  clioiccst  of 
perennials. 

D.  spectahilis.  One  of  the  best  known  perennials,  with  graceful,  drooping 
racemes  of  heart-shaped  flowers,  of  rosy  crimson  and  silvery  white. 

Doronicum  plantag'mcum  excektim.  A  beautiful,  spring  flowering,  hardy 
perennial,  having  large  golden  yellow  flowers,  four  inches  in  diameter.  Needs 
a  rich  moist  soil. 

Echinacea  angustifolia.  Flowers  rosy  purple,  in  summer  and  fall;  eighteen 
to  twenty-four  inches  high. 

Epimedium  alpinum.  Neat  foliage  and  airy  clusters  of  purplish  and  yellow 
flowers  of  quaint  shape. 

E.  macrantlnmi.  A  very  beautiful  species  from  Japan;  pure  white  flowers 
in  spring.  The  handsomest  of  the  genus  and  one  of  the  earliest  sjiring 
flowers. 

Erynghim  alpinum.  A  very  pretty  plant,  with  blue  flower  heads  in  July 
and  August.     Height  two  feet. 

E.  yuccx folium.  A  distinct  native  species,  with  Yucca-like  spiny  foliage 
and  white  flowers  in  summer;  two  feet. 

Erythronium  americanum.  (Dog's  Tooth  Violet).  Flowers  bright  yellow; 
nodding,  spring,  scape  six  to  eight  inches  high;  leaves  pale  green,  mottled 
purplish. 

Eupatorium  agcratoidcs.  A  fine  species,  with  corymbs  of  pure  white 
flowers  in  midsummer.      Two  to  three  feet. 

Eupliorhia  corollata.  (Flow- 
ering Spurge).  A  tall  branching- 
plant,  with  pure  white  flowers  or 
properlv  involucres.  Fine  for 
cutting  from  July  to  October. 
Two  to  three  feet. 

Funkia  ifuhconlata.  (White 
Plantain  Lily).  Large.  Lily-like 
flowers,  pure  white,  in  August. 

F.  "  Thos.  Hogg."  One  of  the 
very  best;  foliage  beautifully 
banded;  with  pure  white  and 
large  purplish-lilac  flowers  in  Sep- 
tcn-iber. 

Gentiana  Andrcwsii.  (Closed 
Gentian).  Flowers  of  a  fine  blue,  an  inch  long,  appearing  in  late  autumn.  In 
any  good  garden  soil,  especially  sandy  and  moist,  this  attractive  and  native 
species  improves  greatly  under  cultivation. 


114  HARDY  PEREXXIAL    I'LAXTS. 

Gratiola  aurea.  (Hedge  Hyssop).  A  pretty,  hardy  North  American 
plant  with  bright  yellow  flowers.  It  thrives  in  rich  moist  soil,  but  treated  as 
an  aquatic  it  does  still  better. 

Gilknia  trifoliata.  (Bowman's  Root).  The  reddish  stems  bear  handsomely 
cut  foliage  and  slender  panicles  of  white  flowers,  sometimes  tinged  with  rose. 
The  branches  of  the  panicles  are  so  slender  that  at  a  little  distance  the  long 
petaled  flowers  appear  to  be  floating  in  the  air.     Two  to  three  feet. 

Gypsopbila  paniculata.  A  most  beautiful  hardy  perennial  and  forms  a 
mass,  as  broad  as  tall,  of  thread-like  stems,  with  abundant  small  white  flowers. 
Very  graceful.     Midsummer  to  early  autumn.     Two  to  three  feet. 

Helianthus  Maximiliani.  A  large  growing,  free-flowering  species  which 
remains  in  bloom  until  late  in  autumn,  and  is  not  injured  by  ordinary  frosts. 
Should  be  placed  where  it  can  have  abundant  room.     Six  to  eight  feet. 

H.  mollis.  (Downy  Sunflower).  A  downy  white-leaved  sort  from 
Tennessee,  with  large  heads  of  deep  yellow  flowers.     Two  to  three  feet. 

H.  orgyalis.  (Graceful  Sunflower).  Flowers  three  to  four  inches  diam- 
eter, produced  in  great  abundance.  Leaves  long  and  narrow  and  very  smooth. 
The  habit  of  this  species  is  erect  and  very  graceful.     Six  to  ten  feet. 

Hemerocallis  aurantinca  major.  A  new  Japanese  variety  of  vigorous  habit 
and  free  blooming.  The  lar-^e  trumpet-shaped  flowers  are  of  a  deep  orange 
color,  the  best  of  all  the  Day  Lilies.     Supposed  to  be  a  natural  hybrid. 

H.  Dumortieri.  (Day  Lily).  A  most  beautiful  and  useful  plant,  with  long, 
broad,  radical  leaves,  and  clusters  of  Lily-like  flowers  of  a  soft,  rich  yellow, 
exterior  bronzy  orange;  of  great  substance  and  deliciously  fragrant. 

H.  flava.  One  of  the  very  best  hardy  perennials,  and  should  be  found  in 
every  garden.  Golden  yellow,  very  fragrant  flowers  on  stems  two  and  one-half 
feet  high. 

H.  Kwanso  varicgata.  Has  broad,  beautifully  variegated  foliage;  very 
ornamental  even  when  not  in  bloom. 

Hypericum pyramidalis.  (Great  vSt.  John's  "Wort).  Three  to  five  feet.  A 
robust  species,  with  flowers  two  to  three  inches  across,  which  apoear  in  sum- 
mer; very  showy  and  fine  for  borders. 

Iris  orientalis.     Fine,  ornamental  foliage;  rich,  violet-blue  flowers. 

/,  versicolor.  (Blue  Flag).  A  strong  growing  species,  two  feet  high;  with 
violet-blue  flowers,  with  white  and  purple  veins. 

Lobelia  cardinalis.  (Cardinal  Flower).  One  of  the  finest  scarlet  flowered 
hardy  plants,  of  easy  culture  in  any  moist  soil. 

L.  syphilitica.  (Great  Blue  Lobelia).  Grows  in  similar  situations  with  the 
above,  and,  like  that,  is  well  worth  cultivating.  It  has  larger  flowers  than 
cardinalis,  of  a  clear  blue  color  of  varying  shades. 

Liliiim  superhum.  Flowers  bright  orange,  with  dark  purple  spots;  fine  for 
naturalizing  in  moist  spots  or  planting  among  low  growing  shrubs. 


HARDY   I'l-kEXXIAL    I'LAXTS. 


Lisimachin  clclhroulc^.  A  fine  hardy  plant  from  Japan,  with  long  dense, 
recurved  spikes  of  pure  white  flowers  in  summer.     One  to  two  feet. 

Mertensia  virginica  (Virginian  Cowslip.  Blue-bells).  One  of  the  most 
beautiful  of  our  native  spring  flowers,  growing  aboiit  eighteen  inches  high ; 
leaves  bluish  green;  long  drooping  clusters  of  lovely  blue  flowers;  the 
flower  buds   arc  a  delicate    shade    of    pink    without  trace   of  blue   while    the 

expanded   flowers   have    no 
/f^/*  trace  of  pink. 

■^ ^  Pii''danthus      chiiicnsis. 

^"^  --  (Blackberry  Lily).    Iris-like 

foliage;     orange     colored 
flowers,  spotted   with  crim- 
son.    The  cluster  of    seeds 
when  the  capsule    opens    is 
exposed,  and  appears  like  a 
large  ripe  blackberry.    The 
resemblance    is    so    perfect 
that    birds  and    insects    are 
deceived  by  it.     China,  three 
to  four  feet. 
I'hlomis    tuherosa .       (Jerusalem 
Sage).    A  tall  and  vigorous  plant,  with 
dense  whorls  of  purple  flowers.     Three 
to  five  feet. 

Physostegia  virffinica.  (\'irginia 
Uragon-head).  Numerous  one-sided 
spikes  of  purplish-red  flowers  all  sum- 
mer.    Three  to  four  feet. 

Pyrethrum      uliginosum.         (Giant 
Daisy).      A  grand  fall  blooming  plant, 
growing  five  feet   high   and   covered 
Meriens  i    r^  with  large  white  flowers  with  yellow 

centers;  needs  a  moist,  rich  soil. 
Rbexia  virginica.     (Meadow  Beauty).      Eight  to  twelve  inches;  neat  foliage 
with  broad,  rosy  purple  petals,   against  which  the  very  large,    bright  yellow 
stamens  show  in  strong  contrast.     A  beautiful  and  remarkable  plant. 
Salvia  patens.      Brilliant  blue  flowers.      About  two  feet. 
S.   Pitcheri.     A  very  large  showy  species,  with  large   deep   blue  flowers. 
Four  to  five  feet. 

Silphium  integrilbliuw.  (Entire  Leaved  Compass  Plant).  These  plants  are 
all  tall  and  coarse  growing,  with  yellow  Sunflower-like  blossoms.  Fine  for 
naturalizing  in  semi-wild  places. 


HARDY    PERENNIAL    PLANTS. 


S.  laciniatum.  (Compass  Plant).  Has  very  large  foliage,  prettily  cut. 
The  largest  flowered  of  all. 

S.  perfoUatum.  (Cup  Plant).  The  large  opposite  leaves  unite  around  the 
square  stem,  forming  a  cavity  or  cup;  large  yellow  flowers.  Western  U.  S. 
Five  to  seven  feet. 

Spirsea  arunciis.  (Goat's  Beard).  Producing  in  summer  long  feathery 
panicles  of  innumerable  white  flowers,  forming  a  graceful,  gigantic  plume. 
Three  to  five  feet. 

S.  filipendula,  fJ.  pi.  Numer- 
ous corymbs  of  double  white 
flowers  and  pretty  fei-n  like  foli- 
age. 

S.  kamtschatka  or gigantea. 
A  gigantic  species,  with  large 
panicles  of  white  flowers  and 
vine-like  foliage  a  foot  across; 
succeeds  well  in  moist  .soil  and 
partial  shade.     Six  to  nine  feet. 

S.  lobata.  A  showy,  red 
flowering  species;  very  frag- 
rant, growing  four  to  five  feet. 

S.palmata.  Japan;  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  hardy  plants 
in  cultivation.  The  deep  purple- 
red  of  the  stems  and  branches, 
passing  into  the  crimson-purple 
of  the  broad  corymbs  of  flowers,  ^' 

will  be  found  to  contrast  most 
exquisitely  with  the  foliage,  which  assumes  beautiful  tints  of  brown  and  gold. 

Thalictrum  glaucum.  A  species  from  South  Europe,  with  elegantly  cut 
grayish  foliage  and  large  panicles  of  bright  yellow  flowers  in  June  and  July. 
Three  to  four  feet. 

T.  purpiircum.  A  tall,  purplish,  or  whitish  flowered  species  suitable  for 
the  wild  garden.      Four  to  eight  feet. 

T.  speciosiim.  A  fine,  large,  yellow- flowered  sort,  with  handsome  leaves. 
Three  to  five  feet. 

Thermopsis  caroliniana.  A  showy  native  plant,  with  long  spikes  of  Lupin- 
like yellow  flowers  in  summer.     Grows  five  feet  high. 

Trillium  grandiflorum.  One  of  our  best  native  spring  flowering  plants. 
Growth  ten  inches  high,  with  a  single  pure  white  flower  three  inches  across. 

Trollius  europseas.  (European  Globe  Flower).  A  pretty  plant,  with  large, 
lemon-colored.  Buttercup-like  flowers,  one  to  one  and  one-half  inches  across, 
and  borne  on  lone  stems. 


HARDY   PERENNIAL    PLANTS.  ,,; 

T.  Jiiponiciis.     (Japan  (ilohe  Flower).     Similar  to  the  above,  but  with  large 
orange  flowers  appearing  in  early  spring. 


Vcnioiiin  novchornccnsi!^.  (New  York  Iron  Weed).  Flower.s  of  a  dark 
purple,  in  large  cymes  in  autumn ;  makes  a  fine  plant  for  semi-wild  garden 
or  isolated  positions  in  rich  soil.     Two  to  six  feet. 

Veronica  siihsessilis.  This  is,  without  doubt,  the  finest  of  all  the  hardy, 
herbaceous  Speedwells  in  cultivation.  The  flower  spike  is  large,  as  are  also 
the  individual  flowers,  the  color  of  which  is  a  brilliant,  deep,  amethystine  blue, 
a  color  which  contrasts  strikingly  with  the  rich  green  foliage.  It  is  a  Japanese 
plant,  and  perfectly  hardy.     One  to  two  feet. 


CHAPTER  IX. 


FOR    WET 


HARDY  SHRUBS  AND  TREES 

iND    MOIST    SITUATIONS,    MARGINS    OF    PONDS,     LAKES 


ETC. 


Andromeda  nrhorea.  This  makes  a  large  shrub,  being  a  more  robust  species 
tlnan  any  other.  Flowers  creamy  white,  borne  in  large  racemes,  gracefully 
curved.     The  foliage  assumes  the  rich  autumn  tints  so  much  admired. 


A.  cidycuhita.  A  low  evergreen  shrub,  two  to  three  feet  high,  blooming 
profusely  in  March  and  April.     Flowers  pure  white,  in  curving  racemes. 

A.  Catesheei.  A  beautiful  spring  flowering  shrub;  two  to  four  feet 
in  height,  with  long  spreading  and  recurved  branches. 

.1.  Horilnxndn.     A  densely  flowered  shruli,  two  to  six  feet  in  height.      May. 


HARDY   SHRl'BS   AXD    TREES. 


tg 


.4.  liffustrin.i  A  large  growinj^'  species;  six  to  ten  feet  liigh,  with  large 
panicles  of  creamy  white  flowers  in  June. 

A.  Mariana.  A  very  desirable  shrub,  three  to  four  feet  high,  with  dark, 
glossy  leaves  that  turn  to  brilliant  red  in  fall.  The  flowers  are  pure  waxy 
white,  appearing  very  early  in  spring. 

A.  racemosa.  A  species  with  foliage  like  an  Azalea,  and  growing  three  to 
six  feet  high,  producing  countless  racemes  of  pearly-white  bell-shaped  flowers 
in  June,  which  are  exquisitely  fragrant,  resembling  Pond  Lilies. 

.Azalea  viscosa.   One  of  the  most  beautiful  of  native  species;    five  to  eight 

feet  high.     Flowers  pure  white  and  very  fragrant;  blooming,  June  to  August. 

Cnlvcaiithas    Horkhis.       The     well-known    "Spice    Shrub,"    "  vSweet  "    or 

"Strawberry  Shrub," 
commonly  so  called.  The 
deep  chocolate-colored 
flowers  have  a  rich,  fruity 
fragrance. 

Ccpha  la  n  thus  occiden  - 
talis.  (Button  Bush).  A 
shrub  of  moderate  growth  ; 
two  to  four  feet  high,  pro- 
ducing dense  heads  of 
white  flowers  in  July  and 
August. 

Cktiira  alnifolia.  One 
of  the  best  native  shrubs, 
and  very  desirable;  grow- 
ing about  three  feet  high, 
and  covered  with  a  great 
quantity  of  creamy  white, 
intensely  fragrant  flowers 
in  spikes  six  inches  long. 

IIc.x  opaca.  { American 
Holly).    This  is  one  of  our 
finest  native  evergreens;  its  dark   green  foliage  and  bright  red  berries  make 
it  a  most  attractive  and  very  ornamental  tree. 

Ilex  verticillata.  (Black  Alder.  Winterberry).  A  dwarf  deciduous  shrub; 
very  desirable  for  the  bog  garden;  fruit  bright  red. 

Itea  virginica.  A  fine  hardy  shrub ;  growing  from  f<nir  to 
and  producing  numerous  racemes  of  pure  white  flowers  in  June, 
finest  shrubs,  with  beautiful  red  foliage  in  autumn. 

Kalmia  angustifolia.  The  Kalmias  are  unrivaled  in  beauty  of  fohage  and 
flowers,  and  deserving  of  extended  cultivation.  A  dwarf  species;  one  to  two 
feet  high ;  flowers  bright  rose  color. 


X  feet  high 
One  of  our 


HARDY   SHRUBS    AND    TREES 


K.  latifolia.  (American  Laurel).  The  most  beautiful  evergreen  flowering 
shrub  in  cultivation.  Flowers  profuse,  large  and  very  showy,  varying  from 
deep  rose  color  to  nearly  white  in  June;  height  four  to  eight  feet. 

Liquidamhar  styraciflua.  (Sweet  Gum  Tree).  A  very  ornamental  tree  in 
the  water  garden  and  in  moist  places;  leaves  smooth  and  shiny,  five  to  seven 
lobed,  pointed,  fragrant  when  bruised,  and  turning  deep  crimson  in  autumn. 
Young  trees  are  covered  with  gray  bark  in  deep  corky  ridges. 

Magnolia  glauca.  One  of  the  finest  of  the  Magnolias ;  leaves  deep  green 
above  and  glaucous  white  on  the  under  side.  Flowers  waxy  white;  three 
inches  in  diameter,  and  richh^  fragrant. 

Nyssa  multiHorn.  (Pepperidge.  Sour  Gum  Tree).  A  most  beautiful  tree 
of  striking  and  characteristic  appear- 
ance. Foliage  rich  and  glossy  as 
though  it  were  varnished;  turning 
bright  crimson  in  autumn. 

Pail  low  nia  iniperialis.  One  of  the 
finest  flowering  trees  from  Japan  ;  it  is 
fine  in  leaf  as  well  as  the  bloom ;  the 
leaves  are  about  a  foot  long,  trilobed 
and  downy.  The  flowers  are  produced 
on  erect  spikes,  resembling  the  well 
known  Catalpa,  but  the  flowers  are 
larger  and  are  a  delicate  maiive-purple, 
blotched  inside  with  a  deeper  tint.  As 
a  foliage  plant  for  the  subtropical 
garden  it  is  invaluable;  the  young- 
shoots  should  be  cut  down  annually, 
the  young  strong  shoots  making  rapid 
growth  and  producing  large  hand- 
some leaves.  See  illustration  page  59. 
The  Ailanthus  is  also  a  valuable  tree, 
Magnolia  ciauci.  treated  precisely  the  same;    the   long 

pinnate   leaves   are   very  ornamental, 
light,  and  graceful. 
Pyriis  arhutifniia.      A  dwarf  shrub  with  elegant  flowers  like  miniature  apple 
blossoms;  lollowed  by  clusters  of  bright  red  berries  that  remain  until  late  in  the 
winter. 

Salix  bahylonica.  (Weeping  Willow).  A  most  desirable  tree  near  the 
water's  edge;  its  long  pendant  branches  and  soft  green  linear  foliage  are  most 
graceful  and  picturesque. 

Vaccinium  corymbositm.  (Swamp  Blueberry).  This  is  a  very  ornamental 
shrub,  either  in  blossom  or  fruit,  but  is  mostly  esteemed  for  its  fine  large  fruit; 
height  fi\-e  to  ten  feet. 


Lil»rary 
^.  C.  State  CoUege 


JUN82 

M    MANCHESTER. 


.\ 


X 


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